STILL having issues....

[rusty ol ranger]

Ok...did alot of pokeing/prodding/etc today.....heres what i came up with...

I got 2.1 ohms when going from SPOUT connector to TFI plug. So that wire should be ok correct?

I got 0.00 ohms (not the infinite shorting ohms though) when i tested between the SPOUT plug and the ECM, key off. Normal or no?

Also, after unplugging the ECM to test the wire, the SPOUT started making a difference when i plug/unplug it.

With the engine running i got 6.0V at the spout connector with a battery voltage of 13.8.

Weird thing though, i checked fuel pressure, again. It was at 38 or so KOEO, but with KOER it would drop to like 32-34PSI, and when id hold the throttle open it would jump to 40, drop to 35, and slowly creep downward. I unplugged the vaccuum line it shot to 42psi.

I had a new regulator and installed it, but after that my pressure gauge quit working.

However, on a test drive it has gone now from LEAN symptoms, to full on, no mistake about it, flooding after the FPR change. Like, black clouds worthy of a 12Valve cummins. Shut it off for 10 minutes, fires up. Runs excellent.

I then went under the truck and poked O2 wires, as im getting the code 41 still. I had 12V on the green wire. .5 on the orange wire. Granted this was just testing with the key on.

So theirs the puzzle pieces, can anyone help arrange them?

 

[RonD]

0 ohms is GOOD when testing a wire at both ends, if means no noticeable resistance, so wire is good, you should also then leave one end of that wire connected to Meter and touch Meter's other probe to any Ground/metal, if you get 0 ohms again that means wire is shorted to Ground somewhere, which is NOT good

Infinite or no change in meters display means no connection
High ohms, means high resistance and any voltage on that wire would have a high drop, i.e. 12v down to 4v, which usually means a bad connector/corrosion

You should have 0 ohms on ALL and ANY wires when testing at both ends of the wire, that 2.1 ohms is not right, it's to low to have an effect but should have been 0 ohms
If you use a high OHM scale you can get that, try using lowest OHM scale if meter has that option, usually 200 ohms

It reads like one of the connections for SPOUT was corroded and not making contact, unplugging and plugging it back in cleaned connector enough to make contact again.
Yes, with engine running SPOUT should show 6v-7v, if I remember correctly(IIRC)


Regulator looks good
Its spring is rated at 42 PSI, so at 43psi it will get pushed open and allow extra fuel to flow back to gas tank
With engine running the IDLE vacuum(20") in intake manifold pulls against spring so it opens at around 33PSI
When you open throttle vacuum drops so spring is back , and pressure will go up a bit, then drop back down when vacuum in intake comes back to 20".
So it all reads like normal

The flooding engine doesn't read like normal
With Key OFF fuel pressure should stay above 20psi, for a few MONTHS
If it drops to 0psi then you could have a bad/leaking injector

O2s are heated so have a 12v and Ground wire for the heater inside, the ground wire runs to computer so it can "see" the 12v with key on and monitor that heater is working
The O2 sensor part, the other 2 wires, generates its own voltage after it gets heated above 650degF, 0.1v to 0.9v
0.1v is High Oxygen, Lean
0.9v is Low Oxygen, Rich

You know about Clear Flooded Engine mode?
You can use that to test for leaking injector, and ID which one

First, crank engine with gas pedal to the floor, if it starts or fires, then you do have fuel in the intake
Now repeat test but without Spark, pull coil wire off distributor cap
Crank engine over a few times, gas pedal to the floor
Now pull out spark plugs
WET one is the cylinder with leaking injector

 

[Paulos]

I had an injector that would randomly stick open. It was one of six rebuilt injectors that I bought from a seller on eBay.

You can pull the upper intake, pull the fuel rail (leaving the injectors connected to it), put a shallow oil drain pan on top of the lower intake (the fuel lines were long enough on my '87), and suspend the fuel rail/injectors in the drain pan (with an old rag in the bottom of the pan to prevent fuel splashing) to test your injectors to see if you have any sticking open or clogged. You can then bypass the fuel pump relay to pressurize the system with the engine off, and use a 9 volt battery (NOT 12 volts from the truck battery) to energize each injector. I used an injector tester instead of a 9 volt battery, a fuel injector cleaner adapter, Berryman B-12 Chemtool #0117 injector cleaner (the good and highly toxic stuff) to clean the injectors, and acid washed the fuel rail. It did a pretty good job cleaning my original set of injectors, but I still had a slight bit of hesitation, and decided to get new injectors instead.

An injector that is stuck open is obviously bad, but one that is clogged or semi-clogged is bad also. The cylinder with the clogged injector will run lean and cause a lean code, even if the other five are not. Then the ECU dumps more fuel because of the lean cylinder, and in the process makes the others run rich. And the vicious cycle continues until you clean or replace the injectors. When I removed my original set of injectors I had some corrosion from the fuel rail stuck in the injector filters. So I acid washed the fuel rail. All because of ethanol in the gas.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

0 ohms is GOOD when testing a wire at both ends, if means no noticeable resistance, so wire is good, you should also then leave one end of that wire connected to Meter and touch Meter's other probe to any Ground/metal, if you get 0 ohms again that means wire is shorted to Ground somewhere, which is NOT good

Infinite or no change in meters display means no connection
High ohms, means high resistance and any voltage on that wire would have a high drop, i.e. 12v down to 4v, which usually means a bad connector/corrosion

You should have 0 ohms on ALL and ANY wires when testing at both ends of the wire, that 2.1 ohms is not right, it's to low to have an effect but should have been 0 ohms
If you use a high OHM scale you can get that, try using lowest OHM scale if meter has that option, usually 200 ohms

It reads like one of the connections for SPOUT was corroded and not making contact, unplugging and plugging it back in cleaned connector enough to make contact again.
Yes, with engine running SPOUT should show 6v-7v, if I remember correctly(IIRC)


Regulator looks good
Its spring is rated at 42 PSI, so at 43psi it will get pushed open and allow extra fuel to flow back to gas tank
With engine running the IDLE vacuum(20") in intake manifold pulls against spring so it opens at around 33PSI
When you open throttle vacuum drops so spring is back , and pressure will go up a bit, then drop back down when vacuum in intake comes back to 20".
So it all reads like normal

The flooding engine doesn't read like normal
With Key OFF fuel pressure should stay above 20psi, for a few MONTHS
If it drops to 0psi then you could have a bad/leaking injector

O2s are heated so have a 12v and Ground wire for the heater inside, the ground wire runs to computer so it can "see" the 12v with key on and monitor that heater is working
The O2 sensor part, the other 2 wires, generates its own voltage after it gets heated above 650degF, 0.1v to 0.9v
0.1v is High Oxygen, Lean
0.9v is Low Oxygen, Rich

You know about Clear Flooded Engine mode?
You can use that to test for leaking injector, and ID which one

First, crank engine with gas pedal to the floor, if it starts or fires, then you do have fuel in the intake
Now repeat test but without Spark, pull coil wire off distributor cap
Crank engine over a few times, gas pedal to the floor
Now pull out spark plugs
WET one is the cylinder with leaking injector

I actually did that test with the spark plugs. Came up dry on all 6. Ill do it again though.

So it seems that im possibly chasing a mechanical issue with fuel delivery then something electronic related eh?

When i did fuel pressure earlier, i shut the motor down and it held around 25psi untill i relieved the pressure, about 15 minutes (bathroom break lol).

I did order another O2. Reason being i NEVER got an O2 code from the factory O2 sensor. But started getting one the minute this one went in. I changed it out on a whim and prayer, and it wasnt needed, and i think this one has been junk off the shelf. So for piece of mind i ordered another. We'll see what happens when i install that.

I know driving around with the O2 unplugged yesterday it never took into its crazy fits. It wanted to, but it never progressed to the point I HAD to stop and let it cool down.

As soon as i plugged the O2 in today, ran it about 20 minutes, is when i noticed the rich.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

When i did fuel pressure earlier, i shut the motor down and it held around 25psi untill i relieved the pressure, about 15 minutes (bathroom break lol).

Might want to get that prostate checked while you have rhat fuel system apart...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Might want to get that prostate checked while you have rhat fuel system apart...

Tellin ya, ever since i got a smartphone my bathroom time has doubled.