Still won't start after replacing ignition switch & lock

[xevo]

My truck ('97 Ranger, 2.3 engine) would not start and no matter what the position of the key, it remained in "on" mode and would not start the truck. The key moved a little more free than before, and a contact that was inside the housing for the lock cylinder had fallen out (held in place with a green plastic tab), still connected to its wire.
Disconnected the battery and replaced the ignition switch (at the underside of the steering column), also replaced the lock cylinder. Also used super glue to hold in the contact (the tab that held it in had broken off). Still, no start, and always in "on" mode.
When I reconnect the battery I hear a click or whir below the relay/fuse box under the hood. Fuse 24 is good.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to the forum

The wire on the cylinder is for the "Key IN/door open" dinger, so you don't leave key in the ignition when you exit vehicle, not important for starting the vehicle

remove ignition switch, plug it back in, Hook battery back up and manually slide switch into OFF Position, and into RUN(on) and even to START if you want, transmission in Park or Neutral, MAKE SURE WHEELS ARE BLOCKED


On the back side of the key cylinder is the Actuator gear and Rod
When you turn the key the gear pulls and pushes the Actuator Rod which Slides the ignition switch into its 4 Positions
ACC OFF RUN START

Drawing here of whats behind the key: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/500x274/0996b43f802308b4_190e1617fd005fe45433e864a63d9ee1343a526d.gif
This is NOT specific to Rangers just a general "how it works"

If the Rod is not working then ignition switch can be stuck in 1 of the 4 positions, in your case RUN(on)


Does your steering wheel still LOCK in place with key OFF?

 

[xevo]

It does not. So, the mechanism that moves the rod is broken somehow; how do I access it?

 

[RonD]

Its a real pain

You need to pull the steering wheel off, so you need a Puller

Be sure to unhook battery FIRST and let truck sit for 5 minutes before trying to remove the steering wheel AIRBAG, it can KILL you if it goes off while you are holding a tool

Google: ford ranger replace actuator rod

And: ford ignition switch actuator replacement

The Rangers and F-150s are about the same, there are a few videos and how-tos with pictures

There is alot of stuff to remove and then reassemble in the correct order, so take your time, take lots of pictures and put things in order as you take them off

Quick look here of the steps: https://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx.php/0/037/article/Ignition-Cylinder-Actuator-Rod-Replacement-9703-F150.html

The plastic rod is usually the problem, gears strip or Pin shears off

 

[xevo]

Ugh, I hoped I wouldn't have to pull the wheel.
Thanks.

 

[xevo]

Update:
Pulled the wheel and replaced the actuator rod. The starter relay has also been replaced. It still won't start.

 

[RonD]

Check fuse 24 in the cab fuse box

Have you tested for voltage at the starter relay when key is turned to START

Also since you have an automatic transmission, try starting in Neutral, there is a Park/Neutral switch on the transmission that can be out of adjustment, so doesn't pass signal(12v) to starter relay in Park

 

[xevo]

That did the trick... shifting it to neutral. It started then.

 

[xevo]

Also had to readjust the gear that moved the rod, so it would push the switch to the start position. Everything's back together and the truck starts and drives as well as it used to. Thanks for the advice.
Here's what it looked like taken apart...

 

[RonD]

Good work

Boy that looks like a 3 or 4 cups of coffee job

 

[Partwerks]

Also had to readjust the gear that moved the rod, so it would push the switch to the start position. Everything's back together and the truck starts and drives as well as it used to. Thanks for the advice.
Here's what it looked like taken apart...View attachment 36422

Did you have to take those two star bolts out towards the back. One on each side, that go in horizontally?