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tips on removing M50D transmission from 96 Ranger 4x4 v6, top bolts.


cnord

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Gurus -

I have a 96 Ranger 4x4 v6 4l, with the M50D 5 speed. I am getting close to dropping the transmission (exhaust removed, drive lines removed, shifter etc). Any tips on accessing the two bolts on the top of the bellhousing? So far every bolt that I removed has required a LOT of heat to get it to free along with a prayer of 'please, please, please don't snap'. The last thing I want to do is snap a bolt and have to extract, which I suspect would involve pulling the engine.

This can't be a unique problem. Looking for advice good or bad.

Thanx,

Chris
 


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I can't remember to the last time I did a Mazda transmission removal. That said, on my 5.0/4R70W combo, the top two are reasonably easy to access by reaching down from above.
 

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On my ‘93 I loosened them from the top. I dont recall if I took off the trans crossmember and lowered the backside of trans first. I know on a S-10 blazer the only way to get access to the top bolts was to remove all the body mount bolt but the back 2 and raise the body some (think like a dump truck bed) a ranger isnt that bad though. I had more issues with the Y-pipe to manifold bolts than anything. (rust)
 

Josh B

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It's easier to put the tranny jack in place, remove the crossmember, and lower the whole thing a bit, then reach across the top with extensions and good impact for stuck bolts. i wouldn't want to try getting a torch into that mess
Then get your motor where you want it rested on something, and the tranny unbound from it and slide it on back
 

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Yes, the vibration of an impact works better than heat on these, just don't put them back on with an impact wrench, which is what most likely happened last time theses were out

Yes, long extensions, a wobble and lower the trans down for the top bolts
 

Josh B

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Have you removed the Y pipe yet?
 

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Those bolts should be the FIRST things removed, if you do not have a 3 ft long extension, impact swivel, and 1/2 in impact gun.

You need this wrench:




and you need to access them from the top, with at least two other bell bolts in place, and the engine/trans level as if the cross member is still in place.
 

Shran

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I do them from below with a long extension and a swivel socket but the crossmember has to be out and the trans drooped down as far as possible. I've also done them from above like ADSM suggested - flex gearwrench or a flex head ratchet is an absolute necessity.
 

cnord

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Thanks for all the reply's and advice. I got'em out...used a flex head ratchet and put some heat on the thread well in the block and it worked. Got my yoga in for the day. I was concerned about using a 1/2 impact gun as I did not want to shear and have to extract a bolt - been there done that. Another question: Can I drop the transmission and xfer case as a unit?
 

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It should be possible if you have enough room for it, and can keep it balanced.
Disclaimer: I've never tried this stunt myself ;)
 

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Yeah you can drop the transmission and transfer case as a unit, it would be rather unwieldy though as they weigh a good 70lbs each. There's only 5 bolts holding the transfer case on, I would just pull it first to make things easier
 

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heat? on a trans bolt?


make sure it is not thread mismatch sae/metric or just crossed out.

even if it did snap off.....i would not have worried about just one..
 

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I also wouldn't have worried about just one. Technically you can run a transmission with just the two bolts that go through the dowels and be OK. It's not recommended, but it works in a pinch. Also, if I get to the end of the job and I'm missing bell bolts, those top two are the ones I leave out first (sometimes I buy cars that are missing parts).

Also, 1/2 impact is always the way to go on removing trans bolts. Sometimes anything less just isn't strong enough.
 

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My little buddy for bolts like that is a Harbor Freight 3/8 drive Earthquake impact. Tiny, light, and has a ton of power. I also have a 2' long 3/8" extension and a 13mm 3/8" drive swivel impact socket. Makes very quick work of bellhousing bolts. The hardest part now is positioning the flashlight so I can see them all.

FWIW I have had a few vehicles come through my shop that were missing several bellhousing bolts and/or they were all very loose. It's kind of shocking.
 

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Having been bathed if ATF one too many times, the last 2 transmission/transfer case combos I have pulled, I have left the transfer case on.

I invested in transmission adapter for the floor jack and have a 2nd jack to keep the transfer case from rotating but I'm getting old.
 

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