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Transmission Problem on ‘98 Ranger 4.0/4x4/Manu


crowe47

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About one month ago, started having problems with all gears and then could only go through gears with engine off. Found master cylinder reservoir completely empty and I filled almost to top. No black diaphragm found inside by the way. Then I could put into different gears and I put in reverse and there was a grinding noise when truck started moving. I let engine run in neutral for about 10 minutes to try to keep battery charged and began to smell a strange burning odor and quickly turned off engine. Is it not safe to run the engine with possible bad clutch. I should mention that transmission fluid was changed about one year ago. I have not cranked it in a couple of weeks. My mechanic cannot check it out for two more weeks and his plan is to first determine if new prefiiled master cylinder will fix the problem. He thinks it needs new clutch as well and said replacing clutch on my 4x4 truck is going to be a bear. Owned truck since new and now has 118,000 miles on it. I have driven the truck about 1500 miles in last year. Sits in my driveway most of time. I had been thinking about selling the truck and now possible need for new MC and clutch only complicates matters. Also, I had rebuilt front suspension and replaced all shock absorbers about 4,000 miles ago and both precat oxygen sensors last month with intentions of keeping truck and now another expensive repair. Trying to sell my ‘72 Cutlass that i’ve owned since new as well.
 


pjtoledo

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you need to properly bleed the clutch hydraulics. simply topping the fluid leaves air trapped in the master cylinder. there are a couple ways to do it, do a search for the info. with a bit of luck you can fix this without any new parts.
 

crowe47

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I just checked the reservoir and it is empty. As mentioned, I had filled it about one month ago and cranked it next day and could then put in in reverse and started moving back when I heard that noise. Later that day I put it in neutral and let it run for about 10 minutes and started smelling what I thought could be coming from a problem with the clutch area. I had not checked reservoir since that day.I have yet to see any fluid on driveway since this problem began. Could this still be fixed by bleeding process or does loss of fluid indicate bad MC and /or clutch?
My mechanic is quoting $850 labor to fix with clutch kit and slave cylinder and MC and I supply all parts. He has repaired my family’s cars for years and is most honest mechanic I have ever encountered = not cheap though! Over the years , I asked him to make certain repairs based on dealers’ reds and he told me that repairs were not necessary. That is big reason his shop is so busy and you usually have to make appointments 2 weeks to one month in advance. Thanks for your feedback.
 

RonD

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The Hydraulic fluid went somewhere....................and it reads like it went out a leaking Slave cylinder inside the bellhousing where the clutch is

So IMO that was what you were smelling, and yes the clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing and slave need to be replaced, for sure
I would also replace master and reservoir just because they are not too expensive and then its a whole new system

Also have the Flywheel surfaced since it probably has clutch fluid all over it now
And replace the Rear Main Seal while flywheel is off, the seal is under $15 dollars and hard to get too if it starts to leak

LUK is a good brand for clutches, never had problems with their parts, I think LUK made the clutch parts for Ford for many years in the past

You can spend a few dollars more for a Self-adjusting pressure plate, I prefer these when using non-adjustable clutch setups, clutch pedal stays in the middle of pedal travel though out the life of the clutch disc, vs regular pressure plates which need clutch pedal down to the floor to disengage and engage when disc is new, then as clutch disc wears down over the years disengage and engage point moves up in pedal travel until clutch slips with pedal up all the way, disc is worn out
Not a big deal, I just prefer it.

Labor seems high at $850 but if shop has a good rep and you like them then go for it, $650 labor only, would be more inline with what I would expect
The 4WD part is only an extra half hour at most to disconnect front drive line, unplug transfer case electric connector and maybe cut and splice the Brown wire :)
Every thing else is the same, for 2WD or 4WD
 
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