Trying to remove wheel cylinder!

[Leever2000]

Planned on just replacing the brake shoes but it's never that easy! The rear wheels need everything replaced. Everything was going along fine until I went to remove the wheel cylinders. I removed the 2 bolts and loosened the brake line. The wheel cylinder just will not come out. Is there an easy way to remove the wheel cylinder?

 

[19Walt93]

Either pry it out or tap it with a hammer, just make sure the line is completely free first.

 

[sgtsandman]

Try some probably rust welded to the back plate. Do you have a torch? If so, try heating the seat area pretty well and let it cool. A lot of times the expansion and contraction will crack the bond. An acetylene torch would be preferred but sometimes you can get away with a propane torch.

 

[adsm08]

Try some probably rust welded to the back plate. Do you have a torch? If so, try heating the seat area pretty well and let it cool. A lot of times the expansion and contraction will crack the bond. An acetylene torch would be preferred but sometimes you can get away with a propane torch.

The backing plate is too thin for this to be a good idea.

Just beat it around a bit, it will come out.

 

[sgtsandman]

The backing plate is too thin for this to be a good idea.

Just beat it around a bit, it will come out.

I defer to the expert. I'm primary an aircraft mechanic, and you've have your hands in more vehicles than many on here, including myself.

 

[adsm08]

I defer to the expert. I'm primary an aircraft mechanic, and you've have your hands in more vehicles than many on here, including myself.

Normally heating it up that way is a great way to break rust loose, but the brake backers are thing stamped steel, they will melt once they start getting red hot.

 

[19Walt93]

Another reason to avoid heating it: brake fluid burns.

 

[adsm08]

Another reason to avoid heating it: brake fluid burns.

Allegedly.

I have never actually managed to get it to light off.

 

[19Walt93]

I've seen it burn, antifreeze will also burn. We used to check for blown head gaskets on Couriers by removing the radiator cap and starting the engine. After the first one blew coolant on the windshield and roof of the truck and soaked the tech, we added get in the cab and roll up the window to the procedure. Warming up the engine after the head gasket replacement a puddle of coolant sitting in the exhaust heat shield caught fire. The customer seemed disappointed that we put the fire out.

 

[Leever2000]

thanks for all of the advice, I was able to remove both wheel cylinders and the passenger side is all back together. The drivers side has a problem. The flare nut threads are really boogered up. I try to hand thread the the flare nut into wheel cylinder and it is just FUBAR, Any suggestions?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Try a thread file... saved my tail several times. Another option would be to just replace the short piece of line between the block and the wheel cylinder.

 

[Leever2000]

Uncle Gump greatly appreciate the way ahead. Assume the short piece of brake line from the wheel cylinder to the block has a part number? I cannot seem to find.

 

[sgtsandman]

Uncle Gump greatly appreciate the way ahead. Assume the short piece of brake line from the wheel cylinder to the block has a part number? I cannot seem to find.

I'm thinking you'll have to make your own. That's what I had to do with my '98 when brake lines started rusting through. Neither Ford nor auto parts stores had pre-made lines.

 

[Leever2000]

Thanks sgtsandman! I may have to go that direction but one more thought.

What about using a die set to re-thread or clean up the threads on the flare nut?

 

[Leever2000]

I'm thinking you'll have to make your own.

If I go that route and make my own will I have to make the flare fitting etc... My initial thought was to cut off the very end enough to remove the boogered up flare nut and install a new flare nut and flare the new end? what size is the flare nut and where can I get one and does it matter what material?