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Trying to remove wheel cylinder!


Uncle Gump

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I would think after nearly 20 years that the line would be near the failure point from rust. I personally would just take the line off... go to the parts store... match it up and replace the entire thing.
 


Leever2000

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I have had the Ranger for about 4 years and when it was inspected before getting tagged supposedly the brake lines were replaced.
Will I need a flaring tool and a tube bending tool?
Thanks
 
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pjtoledo

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Thanks sgtsandman! I may have to go that direction but one more thought.

What about using a die set to re-thread or clean up the threads on the flare nut?
the issue with that is you have to start the die at the boogered up threads. it doesn't always go on properly aligned and can cut new threads that don't align with the good threads farther on the fitting. it's one of those situations where experience, and luck, really matter.

generic finished lines are the way to go. if it's too long put an extra bend or loop in to take up the difference.

while you are down there, inspect where the hard line from the frame connects to the bracket that starts the rubber line going to the axle. that is a notorious rust spot where the hard line goes into the fitting.
 

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I will inspect the line later today! When getting the new brake does it matter if I get NiCopper? what other tools materials will I need?
 

sgtsandman

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I don't remember the size of the ends. When I redid mine, I just brought the ends with me to compare. It's best to bring a male and female end if you can. For tools, You will need the double flaring tool and a tubing bender. Both weren't that bad pricing wise when I got them.

As far as cutting the end off, putting a new nut on, and re-flaring, that will have to be a judgment call on your part as far as the condition of the line and if there is enough flex and play to do it. If the previous person did a good job, there probably won't be enough of either and will require a new line. You dom not want to stretch or put tension on the line if you can help it.
 

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I will inspect the line later today! When getting the new brake does it matter if I get NiCopper? what other tools materials will I need?
I love NiCopp. That's all I will use anymore.
 

Leever2000

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I bought the NiCopp line and replaced from wheel cylinder to the block. No leaks bled brakes and took for a test drive all good except have the ABS light on? Thanks for all of the help!
 

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Get the codes.
 

Leever2000

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I was going to check the codes but when went out with OBDII no code. Thanks for all the help!
 

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I was going to check the codes but when went out with OBDII no code. Thanks for all the help!
So your code reader doesn't do ABS.
 

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Check fluid levels
 

Leever2000

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So your code reader doesn't do ABS.
The OBDII reads codes just did not have any codes to read when I went to hook up the OBDII later. The fluid levels checked SAT.
 

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The OBDII reads codes just did not have any codes to read when I went to hook up the OBDII later. The fluid levels checked SAT.
Most of the cheap universal OBDII code readers don't read ABS codes.
OBDII was mandated by the government for emissions purposes... not to make it easier/cheaper for you to fix your car/truck.
 

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