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Turn key to start position and nothing


SmokeyBroncoII

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When i turn the key to the start position nothing happens. I have replaced starter, starter solenoid and jumped the clutch safety switch. If i jump starter solenoid it starts up and runs fine. I do have a Haynes manual but i can't find anything on a starter wire diagram.
 


akmade65

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Try the ignition switch. Mine completely fell apart. also see if you have 12volts to the wire that goes to the solenoid s post when the key is turned to the start position.
 

SmokeyBroncoII

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Brand new ignition switch. I have power from the clutch interlock switch to the grey plug the red/lt blue wire that goes to starter solenoid but no power out of the red / lt blue wire at the solenoid
 

RonD

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There is a splice where the red/lt blue splits in the engine bay

The TFI module has a START wire, same red/lt blue as starter relay so both should get the 12v when key is in START position

So check the TFI module START wire, see if it has 12v, if so you can trace wire back or splice in a new wire to run to starter relay

The red/lt blue wire does run thru firewall in the larger connector, drivers side, so problem could be there if TFI module also doesn't have 12v
 

SmokeyBroncoII

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If I jump the starter solenoid it will fire up I have a wire run from the neutral/clutch interlock switch to the post on the starter solenoid and it works now just don't like the extra wires
 

RonD

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I would test the TFI START wire, if it has 12v when key is turned to START then you can just run new wire from there to relay

Seen here, 2nd module down: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/tfi_5-0_comparison-gif.250293/

Should be the same red/blue wire as starter relay had, they were just spliced together

TFI(START)-------(red/blue)----------\
Starter relay------(red/blue)-----------\(<<splice)------------(red/blue)------------------Clutch switch-------------ignition switch
 

SmokeyBroncoII

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So if the rd/lt blue from the to module doesn't have power will that cause it to idle rough and have no throttle response
 

RonD

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No, its just provides power to TFI module for startup BUT................it isn't needed after 1984 or so, it was for a by pass of a ballast resistor

No throttle response reads like SPOUT wire connector is unhooked, thats the "vacuum advance" for the TFI system
 

SmokeyBroncoII

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Spout connector is firmly plugged in. I can sit there once i start it and tap the gas pedal for what seems like a million times and finally get it to rev up but only goes to 5000 rpm and sounds like i have 2 step on my b2 for drag racing (it would be hard to race a brick on wheels)
Thanks for the help so far
 

RonD

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If Spark advance wire(SPOUT) is OK then test TPS(throttle position sensor)

TPS has 3 wires
Key on engine off
Remove 3 wire connector
top wire should have 5volts, bottom a Ground, test voltage
Plug connector back in
Use a pin to pierce center wire
It should show under 1 volt throttle closed, .69-.99 is spec
Open throttle and watch voltage, should go up steadily, no drop outs, at WOT(wide open) it should show 4.5v to 4.9v

TPS does the same job as the Accelerator Pump did on a carb, when you press down on gas pedal it tells computer squirt in extra fuel for quicker acceleration/throttle response, computer also changes spark timing for the Richer mix based on this

You have a MAP(vacuum pressure) sensor on the firewall, it has 3 wire connector and a Vacuum hose that goes to upper intake manifold
Check that vacuum hose for leaks, unplug connector and plug it back in to clean contacts
MAP sensor tells computer the Load on the engine, calculated based on Vacuum pressure, RPM and throttle position
 
Last edited:

SmokeyBroncoII

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sorry for such a late update been working more so i can buy parts. I got it to crank up and idle fine but it has 0 throttle response so i done the self test and got codes 67(nss/clutch interlock switch is bypassed) 95 (i have the fuel pumps wired in seperate) and code 23 for tps out of self test range. Does that mean the tps is bad
 

RonD

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23 - Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high
OR
63 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low TPS

You need to use a volt meter and test the TPS voltage, use a sewing needle to pierce wires while TPS stays hooked up, Key on,engine off for this test
Could just be someone has messed with the anti-diesel screw in the throttle linkage, looks like an idle screw, it is NOT an idle screw, if adjusted incorrectly it sends computer above 1 volt from TPS all the time, so code 23 "throttle set too high"

Also run KOER test and do the "goose" test, that tests the TPS, as described here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml
 

SmokeyBroncoII

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Changed out the tps with with one that i had on my work table and done a koeo self test and code 23 went away. testing tps voltages with an analog volt/ ohm meter is hard to see exact voltages but the new one seems to be in spec.
 

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