Uncontrollable bumps// help me control the bumps

[MJA]

Hey, thanks everyone for their responses. I've enjoyed sitting back and watching people probably more knowledgeable than me debate.

Here's what I "know" so far:

-I have relatively high Max PSI tires (50). This seems high to me since anything I've ever driven on has had a recommended or max around 32-35. The tires it came with are garbage and toward the end of their life. A couple of the tires were up around 50PSI, another at 20, and the last at 35. I took them all up/down to 30. Slight but definitely noticeable improvement with my complaints. I did this part semi-scientifically. Driving the same roads before and after at the same speeds, etc.

Also: the tires are not factory size. Different aspect ratio. This may or may not affect the handling from what I've read. Since these tires are such garbage, and there's a good sale down at the local gettin' spot, I'm putting some factory sized, semi-premium tires on. Will update here about ride quality and handling.

- While it's apparently arguable if my torsion bar adjustments were cranked too stiffly or if this could cause my complaints, they WERE slightly uneven. The truck sat slightly lopsided if looked at closely or measured. I loosened the tighter of two down to match the other. (Judging solely by ride height once lowered). Improvement: More than slight, less than great. If I had to guess about why it improved, it has less to do with the stiffness than my impression that the more tensioned side was throwing the vehicle crossways since the less springy side had not recovered yet... just a guess.

It's handling on washboard is now roughly comparable to the second worst handling vehicle I've owned, a '90 GMC Safari van with blown out, and ridiculously worn suspension and steering components. Terrible to drive, but it never left me anywhere (w/500k miles on the clock).

A note to a later comment by 4x4 junkie: The steering/suspension components are worn, but not badly. Once it's warmer I'm doing the tie rods and ball joints. I hope this is a further improvement, but I don't have high hopes. Driver's side wheel bearings are new, did it myself. That's how I got the truck for a decent price. Passenger side was done within a year, according to the seller. I guess he had a hell of a time getting the old out, and didn't want or need to go thru that again.

Overall, over the past couple months, I have become gradually a Ranger convert. I f-ing love this little truck. It's a hell of a lot of fun to drive, decent on gas, and really relatively easy to work on. (Coming from a long, proud line of Astro, Safari and Dodge vans). I'll never forgive GM for making the later model Astros so difficult to service. This truck has some other issues and I'll be back on here to pick your brains and contribute as I learn more.

Thanks!!

 

[MJA]

Every light, stiffly sprung vehicle ive ever owned pitches like crazy on washboards.

If someone lowered the torsion bars it should of made them softer and actually made it more stable.

If someone raised them then yes it would make the pitching worse.

Have you tried weighing down the bed of your ranger? This winter I threw the 4 bags of tube sand I had laying around in the back and it didn't help much// at all. Of course 240lbs is f-all in a big ship, and it didn't help much/at all on washboard and minimally in snow.

My buddy has had a 2wd S10 forever and driving my Ranger now, I have absolutely no idea how he managed to not only not die, but also actually go places in winter.

 

[Uncle Gump]

You might be surprised what a new set of tires will do. "Max" tire pressure is used to achieve full load carrying capacity of that tire. In my experience... 30 to 35 psi... depending on the tire carries a Ranger pretty handily.

Depending on mileage... and you say components are worn... you need to give that front end a complete inspection. Any play in any steering or suspension component(s) will certainly figure into the handling equation.

And ummm... welcome to your new Ranger and TRS... It will probably continue to grow on you... they have a way of doing that.

 

[sgtsandman]

-I have relatively high Max PSI tires (50). This seems high to me since anything I've ever driven on has had a recommended or max around 32-35. The tires it came with are garbage and toward the end of their life. A couple of the tires were up around 50PSI, another at 20, and the last at 35. I took them all up/down to 30. Slight but definitely noticeable improvement with my complaints. I did this part semi-scientifically. Driving the same roads before and after at the same speeds, etc.

It seems you have that pretty much figured out already but never run the tires at max psi unless the load you are carrying requires it. I would start at the factory pressure listed on the door jam and go from there. It will take some time to balance tread wear, wet road traction, and ride comfort. Too hard, the ride suffers and your tires will spin easier on wet roads, which can be annoying when trying to pull out into traffic. The center of the tread may wear faster than the edges as well. Too soft, your mpg could suffer and the outside edge of the tire tread will wear. If your door jam sticker says 35 like mine, I would start there and see how they do. Adjust up or down depending on what you find. This will probably take all summer to get enough tread wear for wear measurements to be useful unless you do a LOT of driving.