Updating the 2.9L Tech Page - Suggestions Needed

[Dube_77]

Need to let people know that it's not worn cam bearings or air in the lifters
that is causing the infamous ticking.
What is causing the ticking is clogged rocker armshafts that is restricting oil flow, thus causing lifters to wear out and tick because of poor oil circulation.

Is there a way to clean those out without tearin the engine down?

 

[Dube_77]

My understanding is that the egr does not even come into play until you have let off the throttle then it resurculates the exhaust gas. So there is no need to disconnect it. it is not stealing any power.

I have a plug in my EGR valve and if i take it out u can hear it open when u get on the throttle. ive noticed a helluva difference in acceleration with it suckin clean air instead of exhaust

 

[rusty70f100]

There is a high volume oil pump available, Melling M328. I suspect it would help keep lifters from ticking. I haven't tried it though.

http://www.mellingengine.com/News/News/tabid/178/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/47/New-HV-Oil-Pump-for-Ford-40L.aspx

 

[ronclark]

I cant figure out my 2.9L it ticks after a freeway or hard run. it never ticks at start-up.
I have plenty oil pressure. at start-up 40psi. even after a freeway run i have 20psi at idle.
I could never figure out out.

 

[Psychopete]

Mine would tick after a high way run pretty loudly. This was shortly after I cracked a head and kept driving the truck. Pretty sure that coolant ate up my bearings.. Rebuilt and the issue went away, but I wouldn't recommend rebuild considering the age and alternatives (I rebuilt mine maybe 7-8 years ago).

 

[nwstal]

One thing Ive found and it isnt mentioned anywhere is The rocker shafts all get all their of their oil from the center Shaft pedestal:

Which then has to pass through here:

Now to me this maybe the main reason for starving the top end of oil and I for one will be modifying the oil passages slightly The shafts may get plugged regardless but it may help if they got better supply

 

[RyanL]

Hello, I just registered here (didn't realize that there was still forums dedicated to these trucks). I've had a little experience tinkering around with these trucks; I had an '88 ages ago and me and my wife bought a '89 about 5 years ago real cheap which needed a bunch of TLC. It ended up having cracked heads and a bunch of other miscellaneous problems which most are fixed now. It's served its purpose a few times in the little snow storms here in Maryland and the occasional lugging large crap around. It just got an upgraded u-joint style rear drive shaft (it was going around clicking horribly all this time!) and am in the process of replacing the rear leaf springs with explorer ones (the shackle/leaf spring bolts were worn and rusty so I had to order some from Fastenal). Anyway, enough with the history. I searched around a little and didn't find much info, but do any of you know if the valve timing can be altered a little on these motors? My next little project is to rip off the grill and radiator to replace the front engine seal, but while I was in there, advancing the valve timing for a little extra low end. Do any of you guys know if this would throw a code or what? With a manual transmission these Bronco IIs really suck starting out. Also one other question while we're on performance; does slapping on a '86 throttle body make much of a difference too? There's a guy around here selling a bunch of bronco II parts and I might grab one off of him this weekend. Thanks for reading my painfully long post and I appreciate any suggestions.
Edit:
One last question while I got your guys attention; how much of a PIA is it to get to the oil pan gasket with the motor in a 4WD. It looks to me like I may have to unbolt the motor from the motor mounts and jack it up a little to get the pan around that front end.

 

[RyanL]

Well, I had a chance to mess with the valve timing (I believe that I advanced it one link) and I'm probably going to change it right back. It has some low RPM spark knock and seems to have lost power if anything. Sorry to get anyone's hopes up, but that seems like a waste of time. It looks like I have the oil leaks tackled now, but if it has oil consumption (I'll actually be able to tell now) I'll consider rebuilding it. I saw that putting 2.8L pistons in the 2.9 increases compression in that one 2.9L performance faq, but no details about it. Are they direct bolt in or does it require machine work or different connecting rods?

 

[Sultan]

Often when people buy these trucks there some egine problems to deal with. I think it would be great is there was infomation to help people decide on which route to take. Should they rebuild the current engine, buy a reman engine or sawp in a 4.0 or 5.0.

Also it would be great to get info on reman engine companies. That said it seems like few go this route.

Thanks. RS

 

[hilltopfarm]

My 88 2.9 has a ticking sound that seems to be coming from the injectors. Also as one member said before, a clear PICTURE of the SPOUT connector would be nice. It took me a while to find one on one of the forums. It would also be nice to have a "gas tank capacities" section. I found info saying that I have a 13.5, 14.5 15 and 17 gallon tank...

 

[Cam10]

how to remove and replace a 2.9 in a 90 ranger

 

[eureka24]

Flat top pistons

I noticed that the 2.8l flat top piston swap is addressed, but seemingly never been tried.

When i rebuilt the 2.9l at 215k i swapped the 2.8l pistons into the 2.9l. It was VERY complicated to figure out if they would actually work, lots of measurements and math, (how far a rod stretches at high rpm?!) but it is possible with a few modifications.

so, The Tech:

I bored my 2.9l .025 over, and used STL-433NP20 sealed power flat top pistons, with chromoly rings.

The piston skirts on the 2.8l pistons are longer than the 2.9l pistons, so approximately .030 will need to be shaved off the crankshaft counter balance weights.

The Effect:

Running a stock replacement cam, high volume oil pump, 16lb injectors, full intake port and polish and flat top pistons.

Definite power increase, NO drop in low end power and it will pull all the way to redline even on 87 octane gas.

The Conclusion:

Its everything you could want for a performance increase on a budget, it worked for me, and even passed CA smog.

 

[DisturbedMXer8]

I noticed that the Tech Library has a 3.0 rebuild and 4.0 rebuild articles, but nothing on the 2.9. A good 2.9L rebuild article would be nice for those of us who are still interested in doing one.

 

[OrganNut]

I noticed that the Tech Library has a 3.0 rebuild and 4.0 rebuild articles, but nothing on the 2.9. A good 2.9L rebuild article would be nice for those of us who are still interested in doing one.

Im going to be facing this soon. But being green when it comes to these things, some expertise and well informed direction from those with more trained brain cells than i would be most welcome!

 

[ronclark]

I noticed that the Tech Library has a 3.0 rebuild and 4.0 rebuild articles, but nothing on the 2.9. A good 2.9L rebuild article would be nice for those of us who are still interested in doing one.

As much as I loved my 2.9L, it did more work than I thought a little V6 could do.
But when it came time to rebuild her (cyl 3 rings broke). To do it right to do it was about the same cost if not more than a 4.0L or a 5.0L.
With a lot of good running 4.0L's round I desided to do a swap. It ended up being cheaper, I got the motor and wiring for about $350. I pretty much get the same millage and I have yet have not looked back.


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