WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR RANGER TODAY?


fastpakr

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Like I said the other day - I've been taking notes.

It doesn't make sense right now but it's probably coming.

Some of it's easy - body lift to clear the valve covers/exhaust on the passenger side.
Cam synchronizer needs to be a hybrid of the stock unit and a 3.8 version to get me the right CPS setup and length, oil pump drive size, etc.
Harmonic balancer needs to be an Explorer unit rebalanced to 28 oz or a 28 oz balancer modified with the crank position tone ring.
Exhaust would be interesting for sure. No clear answers on what manifolds/headers fit.
Engine mounts need to be raised a bit for the oil pan to clear.

I could use my heads and try to retain the current headers, but there would be some modification required. Can definitely use my cam. Not sure on adapting the upper end components to the Explorer bits for throttle cables, EGR, PCV, cruise, etc.
Current computer should be okay, but I'd probably need to invest in an SCT to get it tuned spot on.

Lots of small hurdles. Too much for today...
 
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Uncle Gump

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Yes... it will get pricey.

Good luck with which ever way you decide to go.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Like I said the other day - I've been taking notes.

It doesn't make sense right now but it's probably coming.

Some of it's easy - body lift to clear the valve covers/exhaust on the passenger side.
Cam synchronizer needs to be a hybrid of the stock unit and a 3.8 version to get me the right CPS setup and length, oil pump drive size, etc.
Harmonic balancer needs to be an Explorer unit rebalanced to 28 oz or a 28 oz balancer modified with the crank position tone ring.
Exhaust would be interesting for sure. No clear answers on what manifolds/headers fit.
Engine mounts need to be raised a bit for the oil pan to clear.

I could use my heads and try to retain the current headers, but there would be some modification required. Can definitely use my cam. Not sure on adapting the upper end components to the Explorer bits for throttle cables, EGR, PCV, cruise, etc.
Current computer should be okay, but I'd probably need to invest in an SCT to get it tuned spot on.

Lots of small hurdles. Too much for today...
That is a lot of hoops to jump thru...
 
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3.0l Vulcan v6 with low miles...
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2WD / 4WD
2WD
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stock since 1998
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Sounds and acts like a old man....tries and fails at joking and being a smartass...
Well I got my old computer with outdated hardware running so I might be able to upload pictures guys, unlike this school laptop, going to wipe down my ranger today or clean out the interior....don't really know.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Like I said the other day - I've been taking notes.

It doesn't make sense right now but it's probably coming.

Some of it's easy - body lift to clear the valve covers/exhaust on the passenger side.
Cam synchronizer needs to be a hybrid of the stock unit and a 3.8 version to get me the right CPS setup and length, oil pump drive size, etc.
Harmonic balancer needs to be an Explorer unit rebalanced to 28 oz or a 28 oz balancer modified with the crank position tone ring.
Exhaust would be interesting for sure. No clear answers on what manifolds/headers fit.
Engine mounts need to be raised a bit for the oil pan to clear.

I could use my heads and try to retain the current headers, but there would be some modification required. Can definitely use my cam. Not sure on adapting the upper end components to the Explorer bits for throttle cables, EGR, PCV, cruise, etc.
Current computer should be okay, but I'd probably need to invest in an SCT to get it tuned spot on.

Lots of small hurdles. Too much for today...

Depending on the year of your 5.0l, this is the only thing that makes sense for your ECU.


Yes, it's a steep up front cost. It absolutely saves money in the long run, though.

Plus, it comes pre-tuned.
 

fastpakr

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I'm not anti Megasquirt, but I'd rather not go down that road for now. The stock unit interacts with the GEM and gauges, plus it controls the transmission. In an earlier truck or one with a more standalone ECM or for a transmission swap it would be a lot more appealing.

The unit you linked would be perfect for a Mustang 5.0 conversion. Mine's running EEC-V out of an Explorer, so it's a separate problem set.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Depending on the year of your 5.0l, this is the only thing that makes sense for your ECU.


Yes, it's a steep up front cost. It absolutely saves money in the long run, though.

Plus, it comes pre-tuned.
I don't think it will work, he has a distributor-less 5.0 out of an Explorer, I think the same year as his truck.
 

masanders

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Spent the day building new battery cables to replace the temporary repair battery cables I put on there a couple years ago(ish). Probably costs more than pre-made cables, but I enjoy the process.
 

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Vehicle Year
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Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Size
3.0l Vulcan v6 with low miles...
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
stock since 1998
My credo
Sounds and acts like a old man....tries and fails at joking and being a smartass...
20190906_173002_edited.jpg
Hey guys its done... I finally uploaded a newer picture of my truck, not the newest photo but it's when I just recently detailed my truck...
 

8thTon

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Joined
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Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Size
3.0l Vulcan v6 with low miles...
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
stock since 1998
My credo
Sounds and acts like a old man....tries and fails at joking and being a smartass...
Hey, look at that - I wondered what color it was.....
Um is it bad that I used my color code as my username? Just sounded good at the time.......correct me if I'm wrong pacific green color code out of the other 5 green colors in 1998 is kinda rare....
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Not bad at all. I believe he was being tongue in cheek.
Um is it bad that I used my color code as my username? Just sounded good at the time.......correct me if I'm wrong pacific green color code out of the other 5 green colors in 1998 is kinda rare....
 

masanders

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2.5L
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
225/70/15
My credo
Don't get louder, improve your argument.
Spent the day building new battery cables to replace the temporary repair battery cables I put on there a couple years ago(ish). Probably costs more than pre-made cables, but I enjoy the process.
Just finished installing my diy cables. Had to splice and solder, but everything turned out great! I’m getting more voltage from the alternator than I did with the old cable repair sleeve thingy.

Advice...get the pre-made cables and save yourself time, unless you just want to diy.
 

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masanders

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2WD
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My credo
Don't get louder, improve your argument.


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