WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR RANGER TODAY?


adsm08

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Those are roller followers.

I can't see it in the detail I want, but that chain guide looks broken. If it is that engine needs to come out and that needs addressed RFN.
 


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G8orFord

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I hope those are roller cam followers. I would try to polish the lobes affected. Stuff rags around to catch any grit. Change oil after driving for 50-100 miles.
They are roller followers. I cleaned it up the best I could without getting too deep into polishing. The surface is actually a lot smoother than the picture makes it look like. It does look bad though. It has 268k on it so it's about due for a rebuild anyway.
 

G8orFord

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Those are roller followers.

I can't see it in the detail I want, but that chain guide looks broken. If it is that engine needs to come out and that needs addressed RFN.
Looks broken to me too, but I'm not real sure what I'm looking at with these 4.0's. That's the deepest I've been into one. SBC', SBF's, modular Fords, LS's and a few diesels I know pretty well, but never messed with one of these Rube Goldberg contraptions.
 

adsm08

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Looks broken to me too, but I'm not real sure what I'm looking at with these 4.0's. That's the deepest I've been into one. SBC', SBF's, modular Fords, LS's and a few diesels I know pretty well, but never messed with one of these Rube Goldberg contraptions.
The guide should be up around that bolt farther. I'm betting it is busted farther down.
 

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The guide should be up around that bolt farther. I'm betting it is busted farther down.
Yeah, that's what I thought. It's running fine right now though. There is a little noise under the valve cover on that side, but it sounds like it's coming more from the front. I wanted to run it some with cover off, but chose to just put it back together rather than reconnect the coolant lines, alternator and everything else twice.

I'm debating between rebuilding the 4.0 or doing a 5.0 swap. I have what I believe to be, an M90 charger off of a 3.8 that would probably make the little 4.0 pretty stout, but I don't have all of the other parts I'd need and from what little research I've done, the other parts can be pretty spendy. Then again, a swap could get expensive depending on the donor.

Maybe I'll just drive it 'till it breaks and decide then.
 

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cleaned out the bed and loaded a bunch of camping gear in it for the weekend
 

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So far I have just moved it back and forth a bit. Been cleaning the garage to get ready for pulling the engine and trans.
 

Dirtman

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So friggin big!
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I installed blue bushings because everyone knows blue bushings make you go faster.

I also had a 30 minute brain fart and forgot how to re-install a sway bar, but I haven't had anything to drink yet so cut me some slack.

Screenshot_20190525-154129_Gallery.jpg
 

adsm08

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After cleaning in the morning, and helping jstill around noon, I went home and dropped the transfer case on my face, tore up the paint on the firewall, and damaged the alternator sub-harness (nothing that can't be fixed easily, and broke the starter relay.

I am now less sure of where my oil leak was than when I started. I thought it was inside the bell, but the front of the LH header is covered, and there was oil under the engine mount. That looks like the oil pressure port. Oh well, it still needs an oil pump, so it still had to come out.
 

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Swapped the two temp sensors for new OEM ones and pulled the cluster to fix the oil pressure needle that was somehow below the stop peg. It was like that when I bought it. ECT is still showing to be 198-204 but it doesn't jump around like it did with the parts store sensor.
 

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So friggin big!
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Buying sensors or electronics from an auto parts store is like wiping before you poop. It's a waste of time and accomplishes nothing. :poop:
 

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Buying sensors or electronics from an auto parts store is like wiping before you poop. It's a waste of time and accomplishes nothing. :poop:
Glad I read that right before dropping off to sleep for the night. Should have some interesting dreams.
 

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Buying sensors or electronics from an auto parts store is like wiping before you poop. It's a waste of time and accomplishes nothing. :poop:
Was in a pinch. Originally, I had ordered the OEM t-stat housing from Ford, but brain-farted on getting the sensors. I figured I'd just use the old ones, but when I got it apart the o-rings looked pretty bad. I think they'd been leaking, but it was hard to tell since the housing was split and pouring coolant. Anyway, I decided to get new sensors but no one had OEM at the time. Changing those two sensors on a 4.0 SOHC is no walk in the park, so I had put it off until now.
 

Bird76Mojo

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I started my upholstery job on the 87 V8 truck today. Yes, in a gravel/dirt driveway.. I don't care about the old cover so it's not hurting anything.. The seat had already been recovered at least once in it's life. The back had a small repair to the foam that was very well done. The rest of the foam was in remarkably good shape for being 32 years old.

Only one wire was broken, so I patched that back together by looping the end and using some spring wire I had laying around to reattach it. The wires had cut deeply in to the foam, on the bottom, on each end of the seat. So I sprayed some adhesive in the cuts and pressed them back together. Then I applied some very thin packing foam with adhesive just to keep those rips from coming back apart. Again, the thin foam was stuff I had laying around..

The plastic tubes that the wires are sticking through had moved a bunch on the drivers side, so I slid the plastic tubing back in to a straight line and applied some flexible glue to help keep it in place in the future. I think that tubing moving to the rear was the main reason the drivers side felt so saggy. The tubing only serves to keep the wires spaced apart correctly, but if that tubing moves forward or rearward too much like it had on my seat, you might get large spaces between the thin wires, allowing the foam to sag quite a bit.

I visited my mother and she had some thin, flexible fiberglass sheeting, much like landscaping fabric but tougher, so we cut a piece of that to lay between the seat wires and the foam. It seemed to firm the whole seat up quite a bit by displacing the load more evenly across more of the seat wires.

I'll be adding more foam to shape the center section and side bolsters tomorrow, and putting the new cover on it. If the seat is still overly hot to sit on with the new cloth inserts, I plan to call my local salvage yard and see if they have any vehicles with "ventilated" seat coolers. That may not be necessary though, as I've been researching my options for adding A/C to the truck over the last few days, and I think I have a passenger side, low mount figured out for the compressor. It uses the smog (air) pump bracket.


Pictures are out of order. Oh well.. I only took pics to be sure I got everything back together just right.



Back removed..
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The cover on the seat back was hog ringed to a wire buried in the foam..
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The seat back across the top edge..
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Showing the two bolts on each end that hold the seat back hinges to the bottom frame..
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Bottom view.. Here you can see how the plastic tubing that spaces the wires out had slid rearward on the drivers side. It doesn't appear that the wires had been spreading apart though. You can also barely make out the channel in the foam where that plastic tubing is supposed to be. The rear of the seat bottom is facing up in this shot.
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My el-cheapo patching job.. Passenger side bottom.
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Drivers side bottom..
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Seat bottom foam before my patching job.. You can see a large split at the bottom of this picture. That split is on the drivers side. The wires had cut in to the foam at least 2-3" inches deep in a couple spots from my fat ass, and the previous owners...
thumbnail (10).jpg


The frame and springs/wires are in excellent shape for being so old. You can see the plastic tubing that had slid to the rear. It was all the way to the rear though. In this shot, I had already moved it forward some.
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