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where is orifice tube


4x4junkie

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Most compressors will require a new drier for warranty. Ag stuff has an expansion valve and they require a new one of those too, not sure how an orfice tube relates for automotive for warranty.
On an orifice tube system, Drier = Accumulator.

Yes, I was turning the compressor and not just the pully. I'll use what ever oil the compressor calls for. I'll take my chances and not change the condenser though I did flush it out.
Which should be PAG-46.

Good luck.
 


croatankid

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I returned the Pag 100 and swapped it for the pag 46 with die. I received the new compressor. I poured out the 4 ozs of oil that was in it and replaced it with 5 ozs of the pag 46 w/die. I took it to the garage. They evacuated the system and charged it. After jocking around for a while they decided they had done their best. I drove it and it cooled some. But it was cool enough. They found that my fan clutch was bad. So I order a clutch. I thought that fan didn't sound right. I think something else will have to be done to make the ac cool better.
 

Denisefwd93

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Fan clutch needs to be in top condition for air conditioning, (and engine Cooling )a less than perfect fan clutch usually manifests itself with less ac ooling at idle or sitting in traffic.

vehicles with electric radiator fans have eliminated that problem.


Also, is there a good fan shroud around the fan blade that makes a difference.

Did they tell you or write down any operating pressures and temperatures? Or did they say "it's okay now"?
 

Denisefwd93

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Also worth mentioning, 134a refrigerant works better as runs awhile, unlike the old R12 systems that started Cooling immediately.
 

croatankid

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I replaced the fan clutch. But before I did I tried the ac for a while at night as I drove. The motor started acting like some was dragging it down. I smelled something like breaks burning. So I figured it was the compressor. And it was. It looked like it was freezing or sticking and didn't want to turn. So I turned it off. WTH! Now I'm thinking something more is wrong. Your thoughts?
 

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Sounds to me like a from-the-ground-up system inspection & service is in order. My guess is there was still contaminants in the system, but obviously no one here can know for sure without seeing it.

You did mention earlier in the thread you found sludge on the orifice tube... If there was sludge anywhere else in the system (which there likely was if there was sludge on the orifice), then that is certainly why you are still having problems.
 

Denisefwd93

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The list of things that make it very difficult for the compressor to turn is pretty short.

The bad fan clutch would be my first guess because it happened before you changed it,. Did you try it after you changed the fan clutch?
We're you driving slow, in traffic, and was a very hot out?

Many people think a restricted or clogged orifice will cause high condensing pressure and it doesn't usually, because the refrigerant will continue to condense and take up less space, UNLESS it is grossly overcharged, or restricted before the condenser. Or if the condenser has a dented or pinched fin tube, making it act like an under sized condenser.

In your previous, i think you said you replaced the lines & flushed out the condenser and evaporator, & replaced the accumulator dryer, I hope they are clear, it's actually pretty difficult for them to get clogged.

I do wonder if the shop use the vacuum pump or if they grossly overcharged the system, refrigerant overcharging is very common.

perish the thought, does the compressor have the right amount of oil in it and it is in the right place?

I believe you did replace the compressor? one of the other people on the site here replaced a compressor and had the exact same problem, the compressor came from Advance Auto.

Without gauges it's hard to know if you're over charged but if the compressor is getting cold that would be one indicator.

I have a new fan clutch and when it's hot out I can hear that fan, sounds like a Jeep!
 

croatankid

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Yes the new clutch makes the fan very noisy. They did pull a vacuum and then charged it. They had to mess with it for a while trying to get it to cool. The ac ran for maybe 15 min. as they messed with it. I didn't run it when I drove home. That night while I was out I turned it on to see how it worked when it cooled off. It wasn't any better. I turned the fan off but didn't turned the power off to the compressor, the on/off switch. As I drove home I here it start making a noise and the motor come under a strain. I saw then that the ac switch was on. I turned it off and it was quite. So now what?
 

Denisefwd93

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Can't tell anything without gauges or operating pressures and temperatures

I guess you could ask the shop how much refrigerant they put in.
is there enough oil in the compressor? I keep wondering about this I found a chart here. http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refrigerant-and-oil-capacities/ford-light-truck

Remove the belt see if the compressor turns by hand like you did on the old one,. What did you actually replace just the compressor & lines?
 

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An overcharge can cause the compressor to make noise and load the motor up. High side pressure could be too much.
 

Denisefwd93

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An overcharge can cause the compressor to make noise and load the motor up. High side pressure could be too much.
could the shop have grossly overcharged his system???

I can only Wonder,

no way to know on this end. This is why I say, "when not charging by weight, to charge by low pressure cycling"

Without gauges it's all guesswork.

Remove refrigerant while it's running and see if the compressor stops smoking the belt?

Still wondering about the oil
 

kimcrwbr1

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You need a guage set to see what is happening on the high and low side and a clamp meter to measure the temps also. Refrigerant is allways pressure temp relevant one ounce of refrigerant is the same pressure as one pound. You can tell if the system is contaminated by comparing the system pressure using a press/temp chart. With the engine off in the morning measure the system pressure and the low side temp and compare it to a chart it should be within a couple degrees. If the compressor took a swig of liquid refrigerant it very likely needs to be replaced.
 

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could the shop have grossly overcharged his system???

I can only Wonder,
I have heard/seen plenty of careless mishaps at shops. Not all shops have great reps or competent employees. I overcharged my wifes sentra back when I was younger. Brought to my buddy with 40 years experience. He put his gauges on it and said (Damn dude, how have you not blown the lines off this thing. No wonder the compressor is singing and the car can't hardly idle with the a/c on. Are you stupid or careless.) Needless to say I learned a valuable lesson. Go to him if I want real advice LOL.
 

kimcrwbr1

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A little refer 101 the refrigerant goes into the compressor as a low pressure vapor (superheated) in the evaporator coil. It comes out the compressor a high pressure vapor and as it (subcools) it in the condensor coil it turns into a high pressure liquid. As it goes through the orifice (expansion device) it flashes into a low pressure vapor. Heat allways transfers from hot to cold in a vapor state. When a system is overcharged the liquid stacks up in the evaporator coil and the heat will not be taken out of the liquid.
 

croatankid

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I took my truck to another more professional garage. I asked them to pulled out the Freon so that I may replace the compressor. They found that there was no Freon in the system. They also found that it would not hold a vacuum. They used those special glasses and a blue light to look for a leak but found none. So now I'm going to try to return the compressor to RockAuto. I understand that they are reluctant to order their warranty. In any event, I going to replace the compressor. I'll be back.
 

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