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Phoenix Project


Dmgctrl88

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1986
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Ford
Engine Size
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Automatic
So I am at the closing section of my build. I have a few more things to do.

I have to build a bracket for the kick down cable to adapt to the C4.
Modify my shift linkages for the main shifter and transfer case shifter.

Getting my driveshafts built over the weekend.
Get the fuel lines hooked up
Get a power steering return line in
Get my transfer case yoke to the driveline guys.
Radiator Hose
Heater Hose (A buddy mentioned something about needing vacuum for this?)
Get the starter motor and dust cover on
Make or find a dipstick tube for the transmission, along with finding a dipstick.

Then vacuum, exhaust and wiring.
 


Dmgctrl88

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1986
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
Fan clutch ends up about 0.5" away from the radiator, which isn't a problem, yet even with a spacer my fan blade still touches, anyone out there make a shorter fan clutch?
 

Dmgctrl88

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1986
Make / Model
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Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
Closing Out!



We got her fired up today for the first time! Good news and bad news.

Bad news is, radiator has a pin hole leak, and during the first few moments of her running, a cross over fuel injection line busted on the fuel rail.

A remanufactured starter I ordered from rockauto.com didn't fit even though I tried to specifiy it to a 1973 F100. Looks like it was an 157 tooth starter.

My buddy had an AOD hi torque starter that fits good, and theres more room for it to fit underneath the engine.

Good news, my first motor has good compression. All we have left is to set the timing on the distributor, wire up the alternator harness, wire up the NSS.

In the future I plan on tweaking the shifter Z bar a little bit to get it to work better and get my transfer case shifter situated.

1970's exhaust manifold on the passenger side with pipe works great. Drivers side we had to custom weld a piece to get it to work with a late 80's crown vic/ mercury marquis manifold with the O2 bung, but nevertheless works.
 

Dmgctrl88

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North GA
Vehicle Year
1986
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
What works

I'll start a what works post to give some folks an idea of what we got working, this is subject to change as I'm just finishing my swap.

1986 2.9 XL 4x4 3" body lift 31"x15" Tires

4.10 Rear end ratio.

2003 Ford Explorer telescoping drive shaft. Did not have to shorten at a yoke to flange length of 47.5" on the dot. Front drive shaft had to be shortened. Driveshaft is a little on the tight side with about .5" of play tightened. This will give me more room to flex on extending the driveshaft in rough terrain.

Had to get a flange yoke put on the rear end that fit a 1330 U joint and match the smaller bolt pattern. Guy at the driveshaft shop gave me this piece.

We had to order an obsolete Spicer part:
End Yoke -Splined Bore 1330 series,Strap Style, Ø1.146x26 spline, 2-4-7631-1

We had to use a lathe and mill down the part to match the old part profile at the seal lips inside of the transfer case.

I retained the Borg Warner 1350 transfer case, mechanically shifted.

Ordered a C5 tail housing and output shaft from Transmission Parts and Cores out in California. Somewhat hard to deal with but they had the parts I was looking for and they got them here after a second attempt.

Used a 1973 F100 C4 transmission. I rebuilt it using a transgo shift kit. Had to order an aftermarket dipstick tube to accomodate the pan fill portion. Uses the big H servos for heavy duty use. Used a re-manufactured torque converter, the bigger size diameter that was offered (Maybe 14" maybe 11"?) 164 tooth bell housing.

1987 Mustang block, specs checked out to be stock, but needed a bore and hone. Bored over .020", E7TE Heads, did a valve job on them and cleaned them up good. On retrospec I might have been better off getting a full motor. I had to order pushrods, rocker arms, and had to get the sheet metal channels that hold them in place, much of this cost could have been avoided, but I have new parts at least.

I used a block spacer between the C4 and the engine. Had to special order this, although I could have found one in the Junk Yard in hindsight. I learned quite a bit that you can get most of what you need at a junk yard.

I put the engine, transmission and transfer case together outside of the truck. I dropped it in using a worm gear device on the engine hoist with the front of the truck sitting on wooden blocks with the tires removed. This allowed me to drop the entire drive train unit in. Gradually adjusting and lowering until I got it into place and make my marks. I had to turn the entire thing diagonally in the engine bay to get it to fit when I lowered it.

I used Mustang Convertible mounts located in the conventional passenger and drivers side, swapping them around staggered them quite a bit. Drilling a series of holes on either side of the cross member and used an angle grinder to finish the slots.

I used my original transmission cross member and used a new transmission mount from rockauto (last one was messed up from holding the transfer case by itself for about a year) The angles in the original cross member allow the front drive shaft to reach the front end and the transfer case. I spaced them with washers temporarily and bolted it to the bottom of the frame drilling new holes. This moved my transfer case up about 5.5".

The engine wasn't put back as far as it could have, with about an inch from the head to the firewall. This made it closer to the front of the truck to where I had to take out my radiator core support and make a bracket to fit a 4.0 radiator in. I pushed the radiator up as far as possible, touching the grill bracket. I had to grind out a slot for the radiator cap, but other than that a 4.0 radiator fits perfectly in the core support between the remaining walls, which gives it much support.

I got clothes hanger and welding rod and formed it in the shape I needed to trace the radiator hose routes. Took the form to the auto parts store and found the hose fitting sizes I needed.

I used 89' Grand Marqui/ Crown Vic water pump, foxbody water pump does not fit with the crown vic brackets. Uses just a 26" serpentine belt to go to the alternator, power steering pump (original) and crank.

Using a mechanical fan, may upgrade to a flex fan or electric fan in the future. Fan clutch fans with reverse flow water pump wont work with the conventional going crown vic water pump. Fan clutch ended up about .5" away from radiator, although I discovered that Four Seasons carrys a shorter one if need be. Even with a reverse fit spacer, the fan blades were too close to the radiator.

Transfer case was aimed pretty good at the rear end all things considering.



I ran the remote oil kit down to the front and had hydraulic hose made with swivels and placed the oil filter with the bottom facing out at the very front of the frame rail top in between the power steering and the front support under where the charcoal cannister purge used to be, in front of the tire for easy access. It remains well out of the way of the drivers side tire.

Used a K&N small air filter and matched it to a buddy's intake hose, and fits good according to the picture above, Had to modify the evaporator box a little bit more in addition to what I needed to do to fit the valve cover underneath. The throttle body goes straight into it otherwise. I took a throttle cable from a mustang and routed it in lieu of my ranger one, as it was too long. It fits well.

70's style straight exhaust manifold and C4 pipe works well on the passenger side with about an inch of clearance from everything.

The after swap stage is of course next. Making it a much better driving machine.
 
Last edited:

85_Ranger4x4

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That is the same problem I'm running into. Do you know how to find one or convert mine? I still have the old A4LD tail housing and it looks like the bolt patterns are the same. I'll check for sure next time I go to the shop.
Sorry it has been a hectic spring and I haven't been on here much.

The patterns are the same but everything else is different.

I found the parts for mine in a junkyard.

Congrats on getting the beast running!
 

Dmgctrl88

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North GA
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1986
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Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
She runs and drives, though we have to rearrange the fuel injector wiring. Transmission won't shift out of first.
 

Dmgctrl88

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North GA
Vehicle Year
1986
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
I can now drive my 302 swapped ranger. She runs and drives beautifully. With the gearing and all it's definitely a 55 mph truck on the highway, but I can take it higher if I need to. It accelerates ridiculously fast and is a head turner. I've taken this ranger up to 30 miles away.

Still just need to do the transfer case shifter, and the oil relocating kit leaks a little bit at the filter, and the C4 leaks a tiny bit. At this point in the refinement phase. Definitely worth doing!!!
 

prymetime1

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Late to the party but great job and real nice details on the build. some 33s on there should lower the rpms for highway. Enjoy the fruits of the swap :)
 

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