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1992 with 3.0 locked up,,,


saskbill

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You might be able to pull the engine, y-pipe and transmission as a a unit, then take off the y-pipe and lay her on the floor to separate engine/trans.

I've done it with a 2.9/auto in an 87 Ranger. Had to pull the rad, waterpump, fan and harm balancer in the truck, and she was tight coming out, but she came.

Also, once the engine/trans is out, may want to hammer down the firewall/floorpan seam and seal it up with body seem feeler to gain some extra clearance for future endeavours (putting the engine back in) and to cover any sharp edges created to protect your hands reaching in around there.
 
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Ilike55s2

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OK,,a bit of an update on the 92 Ranger. Got the exhaust pipes loose from manifolds, all the top wiring PS, Alt, AC and upper plenum off engine. I now notice the valve covers are different from my 3.0 to a 3.0 out of a 96 ranger that I was gonna try to use instead of messing with this one??
Anybody tell me if the 1996 3.0 can be used here,,?? The upper plenum looks to be same as mine but valve covers are very different,,,??
 

adsm08

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If you are not going to pull the engine and trans as one unit (Do that unless overhead clearance is an issue) take the transmission out first. If you do that you minimize the mess and the damage to the transmission.

A 96 engine will work with the usual litany of "swap intake, exhaust, sensors, etc as needed". Different valve covers shouldn't be a problem.

The only other thing you would need to do is swap out the cam sensor synchro for your distributor. And I would inspect that distributor good before reusing it if you suspect any sort of oil starvation issues, since the dis shaft is what drives the oil pump on that engine.
 

Ilike55s2

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Hey ADSM,,thanks for putting up with my issues,,,I had been kinda worryin bout havin to pull engine AND torque convertor out of front pump without messing up the pump splines ect,,,, I'll prolly do as you suggest and pull em together,,,don't want to screw up any more than I already got, and will not be makin such a BFM.
My comment on the different valve covers was,,I thought there may be a difference between the two engines because of different covers and only 3 years apart. The upper plenums and injector lines are exactly the same,tho.
Speakin on the distributor, I tried to remove it to give me better access to the trans bolts, and after removing the hold-down clamp,,,the dizzy would not move for chit with a good sized prybar so it still in engine.
Overhead clearance is not a problem as my engine puller gantry is bout 12 Ft high. Thanks for all the help,,Guys,,,I DO appreciate it.
 
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adsm08

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IIRC the change in the valve covers was to add an oil baffle near the PCV valve, but they made them look different so you could quickly ID which was which.

If I was in your shoes I'd invest the $10-15 and get a spill tray if you don't already have one, and stick it under your drain pan for when you split the engine and trans.

Also, luck you having such a high over-head. If I'm not careful with where I place the vehicle in my garage I can't get the engine high enough to come out before I hit rafters.
 

saskbill

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One beauty of pulling engine/trans together is you don't have to worry about trans bellhousing bolts til she's out and you can actually see/access back there.

Of course, you make up for it pulling stuff off the front of the engine for clearance...
 

Ilike55s2

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OK,,a bit of an update,,finally got the 3.0 engine out and broke down. don't know yet if oil pump failed but inside of engine don't have hardly any oil on walls as well as the rods and pistons. Had a heck of a time pushing the pistons out even with no ridge on cylinders, All the rod bearings had that good grey color with only a couple of tiny scratch marks on #5. Main bearings look good too.
When I removed cylinder heads ,,# 2 and #3 were full of antifreeze as well as #5 and #6,,???? There is lots of rust deposits all over on inside of block as well as 3 of the rods are froze on the pins,,,??? ALL the piston rings are froze on pistons,,,,GRrrr, Soaking them in a bucket of Acetone/ATF mix.
OK,,here is the question,,,,I figure roughly bout $400+- $50 for parts plus bout $150 to get heads checked and planed. $600 for parts.
I have a lead on a 3.0 in a rollover 1995 ranger with 94,562 real miles. Tail pipe looks nice and clean with a grey look to it. He tells me it did not use any oil and no oil or water leaks. He owes me some money and will let me have the engine for $200 difference.
I have been checking out all the wreckin yards around here and they all tell me the 8th letter in the vin has to be "U" for engine to work in mine,,,BUT,,,they all also say the years that interchange are 1991-1994. The rollover Ranger build date on the door tag is 03-95,,,,and the vin is 1FTCR1OU9SUA95925,,,8th character is a "U" ,,,,possibly a 1994 engine installed in the rollover 1995,??
My HOPES are that this engine will interchange without all the hassels,,,, What Ya'll think,,???
 

Denisefwd93

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OK,,a bit of an update,,finally got the 3.0 engine out and broke down. don't know yet if oil pump failed but inside of engine don't have hardly any oil on walls as well as the rods and pistons. Had a heck of a time pushing the pistons out even with no ridge on cylinders, All the rod bearings had that good grey color with only a couple of tiny scratch marks on #5. Main bearings look good too.
When I removed cylinder heads ,,# 2 and #3 were full of antifreeze as well as #5 and #6,,???? There is lots of rust deposits all over on inside of block as well as 3 of the rods are froze on the pins,,,??? ALL the piston rings are froze on pistons,,,,GRrrr, Soaking them in a bucket of Acetone/ATF mix.
OK,,here is the question,,,,I figure roughly bout $400+- $50 for parts plus bout $150 to get heads checked and planed. $600 for parts.
I have a lead on a 3.0 in a rollover 1995 ranger with 94,562 real miles. Tail pipe looks nice and clean with a grey look to it. He tells me it did not use any oil and no oil or water leaks. He owes me some money and will let me have the engine for $200 difference.
I have been checking out all the wreckin yards around here and they all tell me the 8th letter in the vin has to be "U" for engine to work in mine,,,BUT,,,they all also say the years that interchange are 1991-1994. The rollover Ranger build date on the door tag is 03-95,,,,and the vin is 1FTCR1OU9SUA95925,,,8th character is a "U" ,,,,possibly a 1994 engine installed in the rollover 1995,??
My HOPES are that this engine will interchange without all the hassels,,,, What Ya'll think,,???
. This is one of the worst things I've ever read on a used vehicle purchase, that's pretty awful!!

Don't know if you are manual or automatic but why not go with a complete 4.0 and transmission drop in?
It's a lot easier to write then do LOL good luck

Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk
 
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Craig0320

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Wow that is horrible. I would also just drop a 4.0 in it. By the time you rebuild and replace parts you could find a good donor. I hate to hear about the problems brother.
 

Ilike55s2

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Yeah,,I feel pretty bad it myself,!! an update to the last update is both heads are junk,,!! they are both cracked so,,,I'm NOT taking any chances with this engine as he must of got it hell for HOT and no telling what shape the block is.
Denise is suggesting a 4.0 with tranny and I do happen to have a 1995 Explorer with the 4.0, auto and 4X4. The PO had electrical issues with car and her son fancing himself a mechanic, started cutting wires and splicing at the ignition key AND at the wiring going to the tranny,,,so wiring harness is junk.
The PO passed away and her father gave me the explorer to get it out of yard. Far as I know,,,the engine and tranny were in good shape,,I ought to hook up a battery and run a compression check on the 4.0 to see where it really stands.
Only'ist thing is I'm not too sure of,,what all would entail on the differences in electrical, sensors etc,,etc from the 92 Ranger trk to the 95 Explorer engine.
Gonna check out YouTube and web see how others have got passed this changeover,,,??
Many thanks on all the help,,,and don't give up on me just yet,,
 

Denisefwd93

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Yeah,,I feel pretty bad it myself,!! an update to the last update is both heads are junk,,!! they are both cracked so,,,I'm NOT taking any chances with this engine as he must of got it hell for HOT and no telling what shape the block is.
Denise is suggesting a 4.0 with tranny and I do happen to have a 1995 Explorer with the 4.0, auto and 4X4. The PO had electrical issues with car and her son fancing himself a mechanic, started cutting wires and splicing at the ignition key AND at the wiring going to the tranny,,,so wiring harness is junk.
The PO passed away and her father gave me the explorer to get it out of yard. Far as I know,,,the engine and tranny were in good shape,,I ought to hook up a battery and run a compression check on the 4.0 to see where it really stands.
Only'ist thing is I'm not too sure of,,what all would entail on the differences in electrical, sensors etc,,etc from the 92 Ranger trk to the 95 Explorer engine.
Gonna check out YouTube and web see how others have got passed this changeover,,,??
Many thanks on all the help,,,and don't give up on me just yet,,
95 Exploder is an a4ld transmission I believe very little Electric and vacuum controlled shifting that's about all I know except that I have one in my truck that's "bad" still working(shifting okay) for 3 years

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Ilike55s2

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SAY,,,,!!! I just thought of something,,hoping it would be workable.
I did a Duraspark Conversion on the 1982 Bronco II I have and worked out perfectly,,,,
What are the chances The D.C. could be done to the 1985 4.0 going into the 1992 Ranger,,?? ( fingers crossed here)
 

Ilike55s2

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OK,,got a little ahead of myself,,,the Duraspark Conversion would not work because of the Electronic Fuel Injection,,,my bad..
I went up to the yard where the 1995 Ranger with the 3.0 is and had just about decided to go ahead and pull the engine,,when I noticed it does NOT have a distributor and does have the crank trigger on the harmonic Balancer,,,!!!!!!!! Chit and double chit. I'm thinkin this engine would not be interchangeable with my 1992 3.0 with distributor ignition,,,"" I was REALLY hoping to use this 3.0 as the Dude owes me some money and we had a good for me arrangement for trade out, chit,,!!
SO,,,I'm right back to square one on my project!!!! The guy had another 3.0 in a 1992 Aerostar with the 8th digit being an "U",,,but it looks to have water in the oil,,!!
Folks,,I NEED SOME HELP,,!! Can the 3.0 with the crank trigger be modified to a distributor type ignition?? What's puzzling to me is,, I read here somewhere that the 8th digit being a "U" means engine is interchangeable with my 3.0,,?? WTH,???
 

Craig0320

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If you are not going to pull the engine and trans as one unit (Do that unless overhead clearance is an issue) take the transmission out first. If you do that you minimize the mess and the damage to the transmission.

A 96 engine will work with the usual litany of "swap intake, exhaust, sensors, etc as needed". Different valve covers shouldn't be a problem.

The only other thing you would need to do is swap out the cam sensor synchro for your distributor. And I would inspect that distributor good before reusing it if you suspect any sort of oil starvation issues, since the dis shaft is what drives the oil pump on that engine.
I think adsm covered the swapping your dizzy out to the newer block.
 

Ilike55s2

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Hey Craig,,Yeah,,I did read thet one sentence from ADSM,,but being kinda new to these Ford V6 engines,,I was gonna ask him what that meant.,,??
First of all,,let me clarify that Ranger is in fact a 1995, the dude told me it was a 96 but door tag says 05/95. what was kinda puzzling is the 8th Vin digit is a "U" which is supposed to be an interchange engine,,thet I notice the dang crank trigger.
Secondly, I did notice where ADSM mentioned bout the " Cam Sensor Synchro" but since I did not know what he was talkin bout,,I was gonna ask him but got side tracked.
I did notice on the 95 ranger engine that there was what appeared to be a "cap" where the dizzy was supposed to be, so, do you just remove that cap, and install the dizzy from my 1992 ranger? I'm assuming there is a drive gear on the cam for driving the dizzy?? What drives the 95 oil pump now,,??
And,I can just leave the harmonic balancer from the 95 on the engine since there will not be any wiring to the crank trigger from my electrical??
Sorry bout all these dang questions,,but I;m trying to learn.
 

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