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how reliable are the v6 3.0


Toms01PSD

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Is there times were it squeaks and then it doesn't?
 


Wicked_Sludge

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Addition to the tech page maybe?
id like to do a more complete write up with pictures and diagrams before it gets added to the tech pages.

1badexplorer, i dont think ive seen the syncros with bronze gears, fords are nylon. yours was probably aftermarket. it sounds like you got very lucky. rather than ruining the gear or roll pin, it destroyed your cam position sensor itself, meaning your oil pump kept turning. i wonder if maybe aftermarket sensors with bronze gears are less prone to completely failing and stopping the oil pump...hmmmm....

tom, the squeek can be intermittant. your best bet is just to poke your head under there while its running (and squeeking) and see if the squeek is coming from the front or rear of the engine. if its coming from the rear chances are your cam syncro is going out.
 

Toms01PSD

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How hard is it to replace? Sometimes I hear a noise thats like a squeaky belt but it's not all the time.
 

Wicked_Sludge

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very simple, as long as you mark everything before you remove it.

the syncro shaft and cam sensor have to be timed, just like a distributor. ford makes a special service tool for doing this...but as long as you orient the new syncro the same as the old one, you will be fine.
 

Toms01PSD

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How much would a dealership charge to replace it? i'd be too tempted to dig in further, i also have a knock, lol.
 

Wicked_Sludge

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probably less than 2 hours labor...whatever the labor rate is in your area...
 

koda6966

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3.0's are amazing. Although mine runs tired, and my transmissions almost dead I have a feeling one of the only thinks I won't need to replace all too soon is my engine. Keep it maintained, and it will provide you with all the transportation you need.

Although, some cases are different.
 

dwfronk

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I just replaced my cam syncro about 15 thousand miles ago. i now have around 160 thousand miles on it. I got very lucky with mine i was hammered on the throttle pulling out in rush hour traffic when my light came on. i pulled off the side of the road and was at a liquor store in the bad part of town and no way was i leaving the truck there. I waited till a read light finally stopped traffic and pulled out and very easily drove back up the road about 2 miles and pulled into a well lit parking lot is a little better part of town. Like i said i was VERY LUCKY. I finally narrowed the problem down to the cam syncro and pulled it out the gear was worn all the way around and in one spot was completely GONE.
 

dwfronk

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On another note replacing the cam syncro is VERY easy. It is located on the back left side of the block if you are looking at the front of the truck. it makes it easyer to axcess if you remove the coil pack. then i if i recall there i 2 bolts holding the sensor on the syncro and one hold down bolt holding the syncro in just like a dist. Just be shure to mark the position of the syncro and when you install the new one just line it back up properly and you should be able to drive away in no time. It took me less then 30 min to replace mine and i had never done it before.

Hope this helps you toms994x4
 

Toms01PSD

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I should have done a build thread just for all the crap i've had to replace. If I had known all the issues it had, I wouldnt have paid 3k for the pos. Replaced head gaskets within the first month. Replaced DPFE sensor. Cut out and welded in about 2 foot section of rear frame because it was rusted out. Tail lights were cracked. brand new brake lines running to the rear that I bent myself because Ford wanted like 2 grand for them. New parking brake cable...that sticks. New rotors and pads. New drums, shoes, hardware. The drums were rusted through, and when I say rusted through, I mean you could hold them up to the sun and see light through them. the oil had small particles of crud in it. diff fluid wasn't too bad. Still have to replace trans fluid sometime soon. :damnit1:
 

Toms01PSD

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On another note replacing the cam syncro is VERY easy. It is located on the back left side of the block if you are looking at the front of the truck. it makes it easyer to axcess if you remove the coil pack. then i if i recall there i 2 bolts holding the sensor on the syncro and one hold down bolt holding the syncro in just like a dist. Just be shure to mark the position of the syncro and when you install the new one just line it back up properly and you should be able to drive away in no time. It took me less then 30 min to replace mine and i had never done it before.

Hope this helps you toms994x4
Ya that does help, I can hear a sound around that side of the engine, sounds like a squeaky belt. It's been doing it for about 3 months now.
 

Rearanger

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I found the camshaft syncro on the top back PS side of the engine. There is a holddown bolt/clamp and I assume the syncro will turn as a distributor would to adjust timing when the bolt/clamp is lossened. So to remove and replace it in exactly the same position I would set #1 piston to TDC compression then punch a location mark on the syncro and engine block. On re-install the oil pump gear would have to engage in the same positon so that the punch marks align as they were on removal. I guess one tooth out and you're not in time.

Sound about right? I guess the worst part is laying over the engine to reach/see enough to work.
 

Wicked_Sludge

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you got it.

just make sure the little flag on the end of the syncro, and the body of the syncro itself are both in the same orientation during installation as they were during removal. theres really no reason to set the engine to TDC before removal (unless your using fords special tool for setting CMP timing).

the little alignment tool can be had for fairly cheap on ebay if you would feel more comfortable doing it that way.
 

kawasakiman27

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well wicked, what if you suspect your cam syncro to be out of time due to a misfire monitor not enabled code? Wouldn't you have to go to 10 degrees atdc? Than position syncro 38 degrees counterclockwise with the engine?
 

Rearanger

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Wouldn't you have to go to 10 degrees atdc? Than position syncro 38 degrees counterclockwise with the engine?
My Ranger FSM says set to TDC (compression), then set to 38* off engine centerline. Usually all these timing issues are done at TDC then any adjustments necessary are made from there.

Wicked, I'm guessing that the nylon gear on the syncro is driven off the end of the camshaft and that the syncro shaft goes down into the oil pump so that the oil pump ends up also driven by the camshaft? The shaft must have a flat on it?
 

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