Sorry, been away from town (and the internet) for a bit... (it was actually quite pleasurable too BTW
)
Anyway, I'm not familiar with the offset TREs you spoke of, but unless the actual pivoting point (position of the ball stud) is moved, they won't do anything to change the overall geometry (bumpsteer) of the frontend.
Reports abound of continued bumpsteer with the so-called "stonecrusher" setups too, I suggest you keep away from that junk and just keep what you have now.
IMO the only really decent steering setups for a TTB are a K-link style (correctly positioned, of course), or a crossover or swingset setup of some sort.
The K-link with it's straight tie-rods has the potential to be sturdiest of anything (I have DOM tube & 1-ton TREs on mine)... A crossover however will maintain the toe alignment better at full droop if you plan to jump the thing a lot (but it will need significant bends put in the tie rods for everything to clear the front differential properly).
I helped a friend with this setup on his 2-Dr last summer (along with Fox reservoir shocks and Jeep XJ springs)...
Thing handles awesome, better than mine even since it still has the stabilizer bar (he still hasn't stopped raving about it, though he also did have a 2" too-short drop pitman arm on the stock linkage before).
×2 on the steering gear, any slop or dead-spots (play in the steering) many times can be reduced or eliminated with the meshload adjustment screw on the top. Just be careful you don't overtighten it, or it could bind up while on-center.