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Old 02-08-2018, 06:45 AM   #11
Craig0320
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I'll bet money one or more of those cylinders is full of water on the pass side. I would drain it out inspect the cylinder and squirt little oil in it .Pull the thermostat out top the radiator off and If the leak is bad enough it will fill the cylinder with water without even running. If it does not I would try and crank and allow it to warm up a few minutes to see if any knocks or internal noises pop up. I have used this method many times. Just be sure water is not pouring in the cylinder first you do not want a bent rod. You do not have to use this method if you are uncomfortable with it.
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:40 AM   #12
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Hey Craig,,,Ya see,,,I do got the cart before the horse,,cause I was well on the way to removing the oil pan and tryin to lift engine to get pan to clear the left I Beam. The one good thing to that is the engine had only one oil leak and it was at the rear main area of oil pan. When I got the last bolt off pan,,,the dang pan gasket literally fell off the pan in several pieces almost like it had been installed in 2" long cut pieces,,,really weird.
I agree with your plan of attack,, as we got to locate where the water is getting into the oil pan. I'm gonna take a quick look at the rods/ mains, since I now got to remove pan to replace gasket and see if any signs of them getting hot, OR,,Gulp bent rod(s),,then if OK,,get the oil pan lashed up, run a compression check before adding water.
Hopin to have better news this PM,,,,
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Old 02-09-2018, 05:37 AM   #13
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Well,,lookin like I got a BFP,,,! Got 3 plugs off pass side and,,,,no water in cylinders,,CHIT,,!! Oil pan is fightin me all the way and not off yet.
Gonna have to pull engine WITH torque convertor hangin to flywheel as cannot get to convertor bolts. Sure didn't want to do that and make one heck of a big mess out of convertor,,!! Jeeeze,,what a CF,,,,,,
Anybody got a magic wand,??
Maybe better news in a couple, three days. Wish me luck,,,,,,
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Old 02-09-2018, 06:50 AM   #14
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I am pretty sure that 3.0 is a non interference engine. Meaning if the timing chain breaks the pistons wont hit the valves and really tear stuff up.That being said it probably spun a bearing or threw a rod. A last resort you could try is pouring some oil down each one of the cylinders and try to free the rings up if they are stuck. It only takes one cylinder. My buddy did that to a froze up 350 and let it sit for three days. He went out on the third day and put a breaker bar on it and it popped loose. Good luck and keep us updated.

Last edited by Craig0320; 02-09-2018 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 02-11-2018, 12:23 PM   #15
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Well,,finally got the pan off,,,and like ADSM did with his wrench,,the friggin oil pan may as well be stuck thru the wall cause it won't ever be used as an oil pan no more,,,!! least of my worries long about now. LOL.
What I figured,, is #1 and # 4 rod caps didn't get any oil,,!! but even after removing the rod caps,,I could NOT push the pistons up to clear the crankshaft. Was tryin to get engine to turn over to keep from pullin torque convertor WITH the engine as engine still will not turn over. Dang,, hate to make a BFM with all the oil in the convertor,,,,,,
Question for the GURUs,,,depending how bad this engine is as far as repairs/ overhaul,,,I have located a 3.0 out of a 1996 Ranger that was rolled and in good shape with 86,560 miles,,looks to be identical as far as the upper plenum and everything up top. It also is an automatic,,like mine. Anybody know for sure if it will work with my ECM,,??
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Old 02-11-2018, 12:59 PM   #16
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You might be able to pull the engine, y-pipe and transmission as a a unit, then take off the y-pipe and lay her on the floor to separate engine/trans.

I've done it with a 2.9/auto in an 87 Ranger. Had to pull the rad, waterpump, fan and harm balancer in the truck, and she was tight coming out, but she came.

Also, once the engine/trans is out, may want to hammer down the firewall/floorpan seam and seal it up with body seem feeler to gain some extra clearance for future endeavours (putting the engine back in) and to cover any sharp edges created to protect your hands reaching in around there.

Last edited by saskbill; 02-11-2018 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:31 PM   #17
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OK,,a bit of an update on the 92 Ranger. Got the exhaust pipes loose from manifolds, all the top wiring PS, Alt, AC and upper plenum off engine. I now notice the valve covers are different from my 3.0 to a 3.0 out of a 96 ranger that I was gonna try to use instead of messing with this one??
Anybody tell me if the 1996 3.0 can be used here,,?? The upper plenum looks to be same as mine but valve covers are very different,,,??
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:16 AM   #18
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If you are not going to pull the engine and trans as one unit (Do that unless overhead clearance is an issue) take the transmission out first. If you do that you minimize the mess and the damage to the transmission.

A 96 engine will work with the usual litany of "swap intake, exhaust, sensors, etc as needed". Different valve covers shouldn't be a problem.

The only other thing you would need to do is swap out the cam sensor synchro for your distributor. And I would inspect that distributor good before reusing it if you suspect any sort of oil starvation issues, since the dis shaft is what drives the oil pump on that engine.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:09 AM   #19
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Hey ADSM,,thanks for putting up with my issues,,,I had been kinda worryin bout havin to pull engine AND torque convertor out of front pump without messing up the pump splines ect,,,, I'll prolly do as you suggest and pull em together,,,don't want to screw up any more than I already got, and will not be makin such a BFM.
My comment on the different valve covers was,,I thought there may be a difference between the two engines because of different covers and only 3 years apart. The upper plenums and injector lines are exactly the same,tho.
Speakin on the distributor, I tried to remove it to give me better access to the trans bolts, and after removing the hold-down clamp,,,the dizzy would not move for chit with a good sized prybar so it still in engine.
Overhead clearance is not a problem as my engine puller gantry is bout 12 Ft high. Thanks for all the help,,Guys,,,I DO appreciate it.

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Old 02-13-2018, 11:07 AM   #20
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IIRC the change in the valve covers was to add an oil baffle near the PCV valve, but they made them look different so you could quickly ID which was which.

If I was in your shoes I'd invest the $10-15 and get a spill tray if you don't already have one, and stick it under your drain pan for when you split the engine and trans.

Also, luck you having such a high over-head. If I'm not careful with where I place the vehicle in my garage I can't get the engine high enough to come out before I hit rafters.
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Hunger looks very much like evil from the wrong end of the cutlery.
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