96 ranger ttb dana 35 knuckle swap

I would say that it is probably like a 4, if you can track down parts, drill holes, assemble brakes and set up wheel bearings you'll be fine.

I say that because I was once in your shoes with experience building stuff so it's all relative - for me it would not be oil change easy, it'd be like a 2 simply because it takes some time and research - a 10 on my scale would be transmission rebuilds, body work, etc.

Fortunately it's a pretty well documented procedure. If you run into any issues just come back and post here, myself and many others are on here daily and can probably help ya out.

Shran said:

I would say that it is probably like a 4, if you can track down parts, drill holes, assemble brakes and set up wheel bearings you'll be fine.

I say that because I was once in your shoes with experience building stuff so it's all relative - for me it would not be oil change easy, it'd be like a 2 simply because it takes some time and research - a 10 on my scale would be transmission rebuilds, body work, etc.

Fortunately it's a pretty well documented procedure. If you run into any issues just come back and post here, myself and many others are on here daily and can probably help ya out.

Click to expand...

Ok. I think im going to try it, should i hold off installing my lift kit or would it be more advantageous to do it after?

i would suggest you never drill the knuckle.


spindle maybe. and its what i do...


brake anchor no problem.

there was a separate kit at one time to upgrade both the big 5 hole and 6 hole broncos.


the 6 hole small pattern is the one you get from the chevy and redrill its holes or just run the ttb abs spindle and redrill the anchor plate of this kit.

there is a offset issue that needs spacing...so redrill chevy spindle usually best deal.




https://www.cjponyparts.com/wilwood-front-disc-brake-kit-dynapro-6-piston-11-75-bronco-1966-1975/p/DBF227-V/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqtCox4eP3gIVBgxpCh1ZdwvFEAAYASAAEgIILPD_BwE









if i find the right truck at the junkyard, i can do the junkyard setup under 200 bux. that includes buying new calipers, rotors and pads.








Wilwood
Product Description

Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro 6-Piston Front Disc Brake Kit for all 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974 and 1975 Broncos.

If you’re in search of something that will not only give your 1966-1975 Bronco head-turning looks, but also some more stopping power, then look no further than Wilwood’s latest brake kit! This 11.75" Dynapro 6-Piston Front Disc Brake Kit from Wilwood is designed specifically to fit your 1966-1975 Bronco with ease. With a superior name in the industry and years of experience under their belt, there’s no better brand than Wilwood to choose for the front brake upgrade on your Bronco.

Brake Kit Features:
- Straightforward, Easy Bolt-On Installation
- Six Piston Forged Front DynaPro Calipers
- 11.75” Diameter High Performance Plain Face Rotors
- No Modifications Necessary for Installation
- Fits Most 15” or Larger Wheels
- Comes in Black or Red Finish

Kit Includes:
- Mounting Brackets
- 2-Piece 11.75” Rotor Assemblies
- Six Piston Calipers
- Brake Pads
- Braided Brake Hoses
- All Necessary Mounting Hardware
- Detailed Installation Instructions

If you’re looking for the perfect kit to give your Bronco a bit more stopping power, then this Wilwood kit is definitely the way to go! With 6 pistons of sheer force, you know that this brake kit will give your Bronco an added safety benefit and head-turning looks with the flashy black or red powder coated calipers. Coming with everything you need for a complete front brake transformation, Wilwood pulled out all the stops with this brake kit for your Bronco.

Product Fitment:
- 1966-1973 Bronco 2700 Lbs Axle, 10-inch Drum Brakes
- 1974-1975 Bronco 2900 Lbs Axle, 10-inch Drum Brakes
- 1966-1975 Bronco 3300 Lbs Axle, 11-inch Drum Brakes

Product Details:
- Hub Offset: +.00
- Spindle Type: Factory Drum Spindle
- Mount Type: Lug
- Caliper Type: 6 Piston in Red/Black Powder Coat
- Rotor Diameter: 11.75”
- Wheel Diameter: 15”

*This brake kit is designed to fit OE spindles.
**Check www.wilwood.com for specific wheel clearance requirements.

Order this Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro 6-Piston Front Disc Brake Kit for your 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974 or 1975 Bronco from CJ Pony Parts today!

Now I dont know what to do some are saying do it this way and others say no do it this way, sooo confusing ughhh

RangerRough said:

Im installing a class II skyjacker 6” lift to fit 35” tires, i was reading the builders guide and it stated that its advantageous to swap stub and knuckle from a dana 44 if you plan on running 35” or lager tires. Then i read that the stock 35 ttb can handle 35” tires max.

Click to expand...

That's not what that article says.

The Dana 35 TTB can handle up to a 35-inch tire. The part under solid axle swaps says that it seems pointless to do the swap unless you want to run 36 inch or larger tires.

It also points out that a weak link on the Dana 35 TTB is the flange style hubs, and that you can upgrade to stronger Dana 44 hubs by swapping to Dana 44 knuckles.

4x4Junkie has swapped a Dana 44 TTB in to his Ford Ranger. When he built his Bronco II, he swapped in the Dana 35 TTB, and simply used the stronger WARN 37780 Jeep Hubs.

RangerRough said:

Now I dont know what to do some are saying do it this way and others say no do it this way, sooo confusing ughhh

Click to expand...

It really comes down to your budget. Just using the WARN Jeep hubs like Jim said is one of the cheapest and obviously easiest options.

The Wilwood kit that Bobby posted is top of the line stuff but it's spendy and you'd still need hubs, spindles and outer shafts on top of that plus a set of 5x5.5 wheels and adapters.

Mappyjack method is cheaper by far, easier to assemble in some aspects, still need wheels and adapters.

The full D44 knuckle swap is probably, honestly, the easiest route for SOME people to go if you have a reamer and experience or access to a knowledgeable helper. I say it is easiest because you can pull a pair of knuckles out at the junkyard and use the whole dang thing. But you still need wheels and adapters.

I chose the route I'm going because I don't want to pull the axle and buy a reamer. I really did almost go that route, I have access to a LOT of D44 TTB parts but it came down to convenience.

I have come to the conclusion that a very large percentage of the wheel bearing issues people have had over the years on D35 frontends is due to aftermarket brake rotor manufacturers pre-installing cheap chinese bearing races into virtually all the new rotors they sell, but then failing to provide any matching bearing cones for them (causing people to source cones of their own or reuse their old ones against the new race). This happens even with high-end premium rotors, as I found out a couple years ago working on a friend's rig. The bearing spacing itself seems to have little to do with this issue unless extremely large-offset wheels are involved.

Once upon a time, common knowledge dictated never to mix bearing races & cones (especially ones of different manufacturers), but somewhere along the line that knowledge got lost among brake rotor manufacturers.

As Jim mentioned, I have just the Warn #37780 hubs on mine. I've been running it this way since 2004, I've probably got over 10,000 offroad miles on the rig, along with maybe another 55,000 street miles. The wheel bearings have never given me any issues (I had more issues with POS Moog ball joints in the first couple years until I swapped to another brand (Raybestos Pro-Grade).

Always buy your wheel bearings as matched sets (race & cone together), use quality bearings such as Timken #SET-37, and always get rid of any preinstalled bearing garbage on any new rotors you might buy. Chances are good by doing this you shouldn't have any problems running any size tire on the OE D35 wheel ends (well, maybe except for 44" Boggers, although you'll probably have other issues to worry about long before wheel bearings with tires that big).