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Duraspark II, or HEI conversion questions.....


LoneRanger3O2

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I have some questions regarding Duraspark II or HEI conversion. (Mostly leaning toward HEI because it seems more readily available at parts stores near me)

1. Do you really need the non feedback carb, or can i just strip the original carb of the electric parts and make a manual metering block for now? (Will upgrade later to Holley or similar)
2. What all can i get rid of when i convert to HEI? Smog pump & related, idle actuator, mix solenoid, egr, computer, what else?
3. What do i do with the wires from the deleted items? Where should i cut them? Or should i just get rid of the whole harness? Just trying to figure out what i am left with. I would assume anything to do with the old system is gone including the little vacuum solenoids on the passenger fender?
4. Do i need the vacuum reservoir with either of these setups?
5. Anyone have suggestions on a clean setup for the HEI module + coil....any pics? Any easy metal boxes or brackets i can just buy? Or simple plans for DIY?
6. I noticed the coil i have now is an E-Core style coil....can i use this for the HEI ignition, or do i need to upgrade that as well?

Thanks guys, already learning a lot here. Just trying to make this thing more reliable.
 


bronco2fan

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LoneRanger3O2

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https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/ignition-charging-computers/2-8l-duraspark-conversion/

It's all here for your reading pleasure. It's not that difficult to do. I did mine in about 4 hours after I got all the necessary parts.

New carb is best unless you're good at making the block, much easier to swap it out.



I got all the parts from members here who didn't want them anymore or extra, just advertise in the wanted section.

Thank you for the info. Decided to go HEI. Need more info on that unless its essentially the same.

Need to know what i can cut out and what i need to leave in place besides dizzy and alt wiring
 

kimcrwbr1

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I got about the same mileage with the nonfeedback carb until I changed the main jets to #42 from #50. I wish I had tried punching a couple holes in the feedback diaphram for the air bleed and installed thesmaller main jets. I just used a block off gasket for the egr and still running the air pump full time with zero issues. The best thing I did was install new valve guide seals it reduced blowby pressure and it no longer blows black smoke on a warm start. I have been running the same plugs for almost four years with the duraspark module and the stock TFI coil. I only had to cut one wire to remove the complete computer harness and all the vacuum crap.
 

LoneRanger3O2

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I got about the same mileage with the nonfeedback carb until I changed the main jets to #42 from #50. I wish I had tried punching a couple holes in the feedback diaphram for the air bleed and installed thesmaller main jets. I just used a block off gasket for the egr and still running the air pump full time with zero issues. The best thing I did was install new valve guide seals it reduced blowby pressure and it no longer blows black smoke on a warm start. I have been running the same plugs for almost four years with the duraspark module and the stock TFI coil. I only had to cut one wire to remove the complete computer harness and all the vacuum crap.
What do you mean by punching a few holes in the feedback diaphragm for the air bleed? What is the air bleed? And ok ill keep that in mind for the smaller Jets thing. What kind of gas mileage do you see with smaller jets? Any significant negative effects on power?
 

kimcrwbr1

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What the feedback solenoid does is allow air into the emulsion tubes to turn the fuel into a more pure vapor. Right now Im getting between 18-20 mpg. I also found the 2.8 likes the slow needles to be set on the rich side. Turn both needles out 3 1/2 turns and just leave them there. You wont have a ported vacuum on the feedback carb thats OK. Make sure the base timing is at 10dbtdc with the vacuum line disconnected then plug it into manifold vac. If you pull the feedback solenoid off of the back of the carb you will see a diaphram punch three holes in the diaphram with a needle and put it back together. That will allow air into the emulsion tubes. I did have a dead spot in the foot feed and found a 8.5hg power valve cured the dead spot but you may not need to?
 

LoneRanger3O2

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What the feedback solenoid does is allow air into the emulsion tubes to turn the fuel into a more pure vapor. Right now Im getting between 18-20 mpg. I also found the 2.8 likes the slow needles to be set on the rich side. Turn both needles out 3 1/2 turns and just leave them there. You wont have a ported vacuum on the feedback carb thats OK. Make sure the base timing is at 10dbtdc with the vacuum line disconnected then plug it into manifold vac. If you pull the feedback solenoid off of the back of the carb you will see a diaphram punch three holes in the diaphram with a needle and put it back together. That will allow air into the emulsion tubes. I did have a dead spot in the foot feed and found a 8.5hg power valve cured the dead spot but you may not need to?
Trying to make sense of all this. Relatively new to carbed engines. Grew up in the 90s. Lol.

So the screws in the base of the carb with the needles, turn them in the same amount of turns that they were originally except turn them out 3.5 turns?

Are you using the mix solenoid with the holes in the diaphragm instead of the manual metering block?

And are you saying make sure the timing is 10° advanced before plugging in the vacuum advance on the distributor?
 

bronco2fan

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I removed everything that had to do with the computer and all associated wiring. Removed computer too. Not hard at all. Removed black box and everything under it, by the regulatory.

I left the Alt, AC wiring.

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
 

LoneRanger3O2

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I removed everything that had to do with the computer and all associated wiring. Removed computer too. Not hard at all. Removed black box and everything under it, by the regulatory.

I left the Alt, AC wiring.

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info.....gonna start ripping that crap out next time i have a chance to fiddle with it. It will feel good to get rid of the spiders nest. Lol
 

LoneRanger3O2

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I removed everything that had to do with the computer and all associated wiring. Removed computer too. Not hard at all. Removed black box and everything under it, by the regulatory.

I left the Alt, AC wiring.

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
So the block plug on the drivers fender, the only thing i am keeping is the blue + orange and the white + black striped wires for the alternator? All others can be cut, correct?
 

bronco2fan

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You have to make sure you're not removing things like the oil and temperature sensors too.

I found it was easier to unplug the computer wiring from the ECU, pull it through the fire wall and work from there.

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
 

LoneRanger3O2

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You have to make sure you're not removing things like the oil and temperature sensors too.

I found it was easier to unplug the computer wiring from the ECU, pull it through the fire wall and work from there.

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
Im only gonna need it for the gauges and lights right?

And 10-4. This is the state i have it in currently:
 

LoneRanger3O2

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Anyone have a pinout diagram so i know what goes to what?

I should only need the stuff going to gauges since the computer wont be present.....right?
 

bronco2fan

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AC, Alt, Gauges, Blower motor, wipers etc. Anything for the ECU can go. I can't remember if I cut anything or if it just went away with the harness. To be safe, if you have to cut it, make sure you leave enough to splice back in if you have to. Better safe then sorry.

Sorry no wiring diagram here.


If you move the stuff off the fender well and take another pic we may be more helpful
 
Last edited:

kimcrwbr1

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There is a grey 8 wire connector by the old coil on the drivers side. Pull the harness through the firewall from the computer and cut the wires from the plate and just replace the plate then strip the harness from the 8 wire grey connector back to the alternator. You can then start disconnecting emission components and work your way back to the grey connector. You only need to cut a couple wires at the grey connector to remove the computer harness. Leave the water temp,oil pressure and alternator wires connected. Cut the wires long from the grey connector one is for power to the computer and the other is for the coil neg. i just got a duraspark harness from a 1984 2.3 and connected the green wire from the module to coil neg. the two wire connector was plug and play the wire colors are reversed but it is correct. The tech library will show you how to power the module on the 1985 harness. I added a chassis ground to the module for shits and giggles.
 

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