Fuel Management HELP!

willihimark · Jan 9, 2012

So I swapped in a 1988 HO out of a Mustang GT into my 1988 Ford Ranger. Had somebody else do the wiring because I don't know how to do that stuff all too well. Long story short it wont run past 150 degrees, smokes from being WAY too rich, and burned 5 gallons of fuel just from idling. I pulled the spark plugs after just running the truck for 30 seconds. 1 they were all sooty black not cinnamon brown and they were wet from fuel. A coworker of mine had said that it may be the fuel injectors. I was wondering if I could get some opinions from some of the ranger guys.

P.S. The motor that I swapped in is speed density not mass air.

Teddyzee · Jan 9, 2012

I would start with some basics.

Check the codes, key on, engine running and memory codes. it's very simple, no tools needed.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

Check your timing and fuel pressure. Stock Mustang timing was 10deg advanced with the spout connector removed.

You'll also want to just check that each sensor is present and firmly plugged in.

Let us know how it goes.

willihimark · Jan 9, 2012

Forgot to mention that the fuel pump is hotwired. Always running. Is that a problem? It just has the factory fuel pressure regulator on the intake. Also I am running a 5-speed manual ECU instead of an automatic ECU. Problem there?

willihimark · Jan 9, 2012

Only three wires to the Vehicle Interface Port Connector. Followed the instructions and no flashing on the test light. No codes being thrown then?

willihimark · Jan 9, 2012

Should I try the test while the truck is running? Or would the problem go away if I converted it to mass air?

willihimark · Jan 9, 2012

No codes running or not...

Teddyzee · Jan 9, 2012

A 1988 Mustang did not have a check engine light, so unless it was specifically wired, your CEL won't work, you will need to use the test light method.

(to wire the CEL, find the original connection in the Ranger, and splice it to Mustang ECU PIN17, which is available at the self-test connector, the tan colour on the bottom left of the connector)

Oops, just re-read your posts before hitting reply, disregard the message, as I read wrong. I'll leav ethe info for someone else, though.

Speed Density or Mass air is irrelevant for this.
Are the Self test connectors corroded? You could try probing the wires themselves to be sure.

dangerranger83 · Jan 10, 2012

Fuel pressure regulator gone out? Whats the pressure that the fuel is at and the flow? What fuel pump(s) is/are being used, factory or aftermarket?

willihimark · Jan 10, 2012

All the connectors were fine. So obviously no codes. What's next?
And for the fuel fuel... I have a walbro 255. Factory replacement for the mustang. So I guess I'm kind of looking at either regulator or injectors? Could the o2s not be registering?

Teddyzee · Jan 10, 2012

Not being able to check the codes and having no codes are two different things. There will always be codes present- it will show system pass if nothing else. (1 1)

dangerranger83 · Jan 10, 2012

the o2 sensors dont start working until they get hot from the exhaust gas. And going from what you are saying, they wont work right since its burning through that much fuel just idling, they are too dirty now.

Anyway of checking the injector pulse at idle? For that much fuel to be going through it, seems like the injectors are at WOT when the engine isnt.....TPS problem maybe.

willihimark · Jan 10, 2012

Well apparently I can't check the code then. Something must be wrong with port... I'm really starting to lean towards injectors to be honest. I think I'm gonna take it to my mechanic. Have him do the whole nine yards.

willihimark · Jan 10, 2012

The guy that did the wiring said Idle Air Control Valve. What do you guys think?

dangerranger83 · Jan 11, 2012

Something in the system doesnt know that the engine is at idle but is instead dumping fuel into the engine.

Teddyzee · Jan 11, 2012

The Idle Air Control can be unplugged, and will not affect performance. It simly raises idle speed when needed. It's function can be overcome be just raising idle speed with the idle adjustment screw. My point is, IAC will not 'cause' any issues.

I'll dig up some tests for you if you want to check some sensors.
A "base idle reset" will begin checking the TPS sensor voltage. Most likely, your timing is just off. I suggest checking the basics before swapping any parts. I would want to fix the wiring first if you ever want it to run "correct"

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,1031

Fuel Management HELP!

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