Seriously... If you warm up that truck... point it straight down the road... hammer down... it runs through the gears and gets you to highway speeds... your exhaust IS NOT restricted.
When you key your ignition to the ON position... does the check engine light illuminate? if it doesn't... make sure that the bulb is good and even in the socket... Yes... I have seen them removed to hide a check engine light coming on while you test drive you new to you truck.
This this thing will get up to speed that does not seem to be an issue just the shaking running lower RPM's going up hills. Usually in first gear 1000-2000ish RPM's I feel it the most. My Check Engine Light works as it should, I think since I have not had issues with it coming on while running. It does turn on with the key in the run position engine off. This shake had me thinking, for a short time, that when the clutch was replaced just before I got it the flywheel wasn't turned giving me clutch chatter since it is low RPM's that I felt it till it did it going up my road with the clutch fully engaged foot off the peddle. This told me drive train and I've been hunting this thing ever since.
The reason I asked is because this thing has one in each down pipe, to measure each bank, and was wondering which one I should pull. Both are before the cat, none after since its a 94 engine OBD1 setup, so I'm thinking I should pull the right bank o2 since it is closest to the cat. yes/no?
Ford says 1.5 psi or less back pressure, i would be concerned with a bouncing needle at idle, possible burned valve , broken valve spring, I would suggest a leak down test on each cylinder, and a running compression test, Factory ford coils are very good quality and engineered for the vehicle, in my opinion they are the best
When I pull the o2 I will measure both ways, from the vacuum tree and check the back pressure while it is out. thanks for the spec on this. This will be probably in a week or so since I just did my radius arm bushings and am sore as the dickens right now. I have not done a leak down test since I don't have the tester but I have done the compression test on it, link to results:
https://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178456 . I changed out the coil not because it was bad but because I was going from a Honda Civic to a truck and wanted the best gas mileage I could get out of it, along with E3 spark plugs.
this is also a symptom of a transmission issue. "chattering" while cruising could be the shift solenoids need replaced, or general rebuild may be in order.
This would be a possibility if I had the automatic transmission version. My friend mentioned I should also check the U-joints in it so that will be done to but have have not heard any clunking out of them but can't hurt to check.