2002 Ecoboost swapped Ranger build thread

02 EB swapped ranger said:

Yeah I realize that. but they would have to use a MAF and a MAP sensor. No boosted vehicle that has efi is going to just solely use a MAF. I don't even believe ford uses a maf type sensor in their ecoboost motors. The sensor in my intake only reads temp and thats it. There is however 2 map sensors used, one right before the intercooler and one in the intake manifold.

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I see no need for a standalone. People have been reprogramming Ranger PCMs for boost for 20 years or more. It can be handled through email or in person on a dyno. It costs about $400 for 3 different tunes and takes 5 minutes to recalibrate the PCM tune for appropriate fuel and spark once you have the device.

My 01 Duratec truck had a MAF and a MAP sensor from the factory and it was NA obviously. No reason they couldn't be reused. The truck in my avatar is a supercharged 3.0, and it gets by just fine without a MAP sensor.

bobbywalter said:

why would you delete heat and ac? power steering has plenty of options as well.

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Sorry I've been a bit inactive the past week or so. AC was deleted on this truck a while back when I turbo'd the 2.3 duratec motor. It was more or less a space issue. Now, for the heat the section of the firewall that had to be cut was right in the blower motor/heater core ducting (right at the blend door). I have recently Installed a little all in one heater core unit right where my passenger side glove box used to be. It works great and I've had no issues with that. Next summer I think I might pull my whole dash out to delete all the ducting and what not that remains in the truck still and get a fiberglass mold of my whole dash made up so I can get rid of all of the ducting wholes and random holes everywhere that serve no function to me anymore. I think something custom would look really clean if it was done right, maybe even change the shape a bit( personally I like the dash of pre 98 rangers how they're more squared and less "modern" looking).

here's a pic of the little heater core

i want to see it...but ubly is a cruise.



decisions dictate the results.



i would be tempted to use a vintage air unit....


but likely cheaper would be a mazda miata trans and 3-4 in forward and up a bit as well with the drivetrain.

with a 2wd application it may be a decent solution.. and just mod the ranger hvac a bit.. depending on oil pan issues in cost if needed it could be ideal..

spacer and long-slip may even negate making a new rear driveshaft...

i want to see it...but ubly is a cruise.



decisions dictate the results.



i would be tempted to use a vintage air unit....


but likely cheaper would be a mazda miata trans and 3-4 in forward and up a bit as well with the drivetrain.

with a 2wd application it may be a decent solution.. and just mod the ranger hvac a bit.. depending on oil pan issues in cost if needed it could be ideal..

spacer and long-slip may even negate making a new rear driveshaft...

i want to see it...but ubly is a cruise.



decisions dictate the results.



i would be tempted to use a vintage air unit....


but likely cheaper would be a mazda miata trans and 3-4 in forward and up a bit as well with the drivetrain.

with a 2wd application it may be a decent solution.. and just mod the ranger hvac a bit.. depending on oil pan issues in cost if needed it could be ideal..

spacer and long-slip may even negate making a new rear driveshaft...

bobbywalter said:

i want to see it...but ubly is a cruise.



decisions dictate the results.



i would be tempted to use a vintage air unit....


but likely cheaper would be a mazda miata trans and 3-4 in forward and up a bit as well with the drivetrain.

with a 2wd application it may be a decent solution.. and just mod the ranger hvac a bit.. depending on oil pan issues in cost if needed it could be ideal..

spacer and long-slip may even negate making a new rear driveshaft...

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Thats all up to you. I'd be more than happy to have someone come see it. And someone brought this up a week or so ago. Since there's so much room between the radiator and motor It might be a better idea to move the whole motor forward to clear the firewall and make custom mounts for both sides and extend the driveshaft for however much more length it needs. That would keep all the heater core ducting intact. So I guess if anyone ever attempts this swap - there's a nice little tip!

02 EB swapped ranger said:

Sorry I've been a bit inactive the past week or so. AC was deleted on this truck a while back when I turbo'd the 2.3 duratec motor. It was more or less a space issue. Now, for the heat the section of the firewall that had to be cut was right in the blower motor/heater core ducting (right at the blend door). I have recently Installed a little all in one heater core unit right where my passenger side glove box used to be. It works great and I've had no issues with that. Next summer I think I might pull my whole dash out to delete all the ducting and what not that remains in the truck still and get a fiberglass mold of my whole dash made up so I can get rid of all of the ducting wholes and random holes everywhere that serve no function to me anymore. I think something custom would look really clean if it was done right, maybe even change the shape a bit( personally I like the dash of pre 98 rangers how they're more squared and less "modern" looking).

here's a pic of the little heater core

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Do you have any pics of the cutout area for the firewall?? Really thinking about doing this upgrade myself for my 2001 2.3 Duratec Ranger. Thanks!

MotoMAyI said:

Do you have any pics of the cutout area for the firewall?? Really thinking about doing this upgrade myself for my 2001 2.3 Duratec Ranger. Thanks!

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In all honesty, I think moving the engine forward to clear the firewall would be a much cleaner install. But then again I guess that would come down to your fabrication skills since you would need a slightly longer driveshaft and the transmission crossmember would need to be moved forward as well. I had originally posted pics of the firewall and where the cutout was made but I guess they didn't upload right and I didn't notice. Go look at the post again and under the motor fitment section there is 2 pics. That should give you a rough guesstimate of where you would need more room. If you have any more questions feel free to reply back or pm me.

modding the firewall with a truck using an existing duratech truck may be the best way to go...



intended use is everything....2wd racer wants to be low and no body lift ect...

yeah, the duratech is odd...the head sits over the mating line of the trans. so when they add shit to the back its not a huge deal in transverse applications... but...not good for us longitudal guys...


that is why i suggest the miata trans for possibles with 2wd, it is longer and maybe enough to negate any driveshaft issues.

problem is...either way you may want to remote the shifter if your using a manual trans..the miata may be back too far.


1.5 spacer for rear flange and i remember there being 7.5 slips at one point in the pinto world. usually they are 6 - 6.80 long....not that making a new driveshaft is a deal breaker for most.



for me ideal is 4x4 application. so body lift aids in fitment.

my measures cast doubts with ttb use as easily fitted without a body lift and oem beam brackets.raising concerns.

*&^% system ate my post.; try 2:

Assumption: You are working with '98+ Ranger short box.*

How much engine to rad or oil pan to cross member space do you have?

Driveshaft solution 1: '93-97 Ranger long box driveshaft - its 3" longer than stock.
Driveshaft solution 2: '98-11 Ranger long box driveshaft - its 6" longer than stock.

Mounting plates to shift the engine/transmission forward are only slightly more complex than flat plates with appropriate holes.

Shouldn't be any issue with wiring or the hydraulic clutch (at least for 3" move).

*Older Rangers work with different driveshaft combos but there are combos which work. And supercabs can be made work with f-150 driveshafts but the distances are slightly different.

My solution for the front for a 4x4 is to add a CV joint.

02 EB swapped ranger said:

In all honesty, I think moving the engine forward to clear the firewall would be a much cleaner install. But then again I guess that would come down to your fabrication skills since you would need a slightly longer driveshaft and the transmission crossmember would need to be moved forward as well. I had originally posted pics of the firewall and where the cutout was made but I guess they didn't upload right and I didn't notice. Go look at the post again and under the motor fitment section there is 2 pics. That should give you a rough guesstimate of where you would need more room. If you have any more questions feel free to reply back or pm me.

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The oil pan on the Duratec sits super close to the crossmember as it is. Does the Ecoboost provide enough clearance to move forward or is it as tight as the Duratec??

MotoMAyI said:

The oil pan on the Duratec sits super close to the crossmember as it is. Does the Ecoboost provide enough clearance to move forward or is it as tight as the Duratec??

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Its very close. See that pic on my build log where I made the little 1/2" or so shims to go under the motor mounts? you guessed it! oil pan clearance was the main reason for that.

I have three rangers, having rebuilt one, and considering the ecoboost swap in one other.
Will the ac system firewall area be a problem? If so, will swap engine in one without ac.

Fuelaltered said:

I have three rangers, having rebuilt one, and considering the ecoboost swap in one other.
Will the ac system firewall area be a problem? If so, will swap engine in one without ac.

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When I did this swap my original 2.3 duratec motor did have AC, but before the swap I had a turbo on the 2.3, which required deleting the AC to fit it in there. Even with my current swap the heater blend door gets in the way. I am currently using a little heater core thats meant for utility vehicles. It heats up real nice. It sits right where the passenger side glove box would have been, no big deal to me. I highly recommend going with a 2.3 ecoboost motor. Ford performance no longer sells the controls pack for the 2.0l, its discontinued. The biggest part of this swap is the heater ducting sadly. Lots of hacking away and test fitting. At some point (prob next summer) I would like to pull my whole dash out and throw out all the hacked up ducting since it serves me no purpose anymore at all.

Fuelaltered said:

I have three rangers, having rebuilt one, and considering the ecoboost swap in one other.
Will the ac system firewall area be a problem? If so, will swap engine in one without ac.

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that depends.


these trucks and chassis and firewalls vary greatly. i would offset the turbo with an adapter which is a pia but worth it as well... this is the best way to keep some fead options open.


if you have a 2wd ranger edge your golden. no cutting save for the shifter...via opening the hole up or remoting or reforming a shifter will be things to consider...

....you may want to go to a longer mazda trans ect...but keeping ac and custom mounting a powertrain is cake compared to what this rig had to do. its light enough that moving the engine forward a few inches is a non issue...drive shaft being longer sux though. but plenty of room for cooling even at 4 inches forward...

offsetting the engine helps too..depending on chassis...


if you have a 2wd tib truck...it is easy to do and keep ac as long as it is 95 or newer with the 15 inch ac box....


the earlier 95 down rangers had bigger boxes that will need massaging to work. if it has the pcm under the hood you have the smaller good ac box.


so oddly enough

...the only chassis this duratech engine came in....

is also the hardest one to put the ecoboost version of the duratech in

you cant make that shit up...


the 4x4 sla with a 4 inch lift will allow it to fit fine as well and keep ac. but i would consider firewall mods with those unless your good with a 3 in body lift and some minor massaging just to make it easy......

which i prefer a body lift to make fixing the now doomed transmissions on the regular a breeze. especially if you use the 5r55e with a turbo fixing itmight be what happens at oil change intervals if you use that boost part of things...

ttb chassis with some cutting on the k member and light firewall work along a body lift will be workable..but firewall mods are a good option as well.


the good thing about the later rangers like this one the op has here...it only takes an hour or two to pull the dash out of them...they are the easiest systems to work with...so hot forming the inside hvac and cutting/modding the firewall with mild patience are easily done.


this truck was so busy blazing the trail it charged right past creature comfort and just got er did....

two thumbs up and a snap in a circle for those blazing berries...

from there refinement begins... i hope to see it some time...

it pointed out all of the areas i just mentioned...


so like i said....your actual setup will dictate path forward. because rangers are not all the same.