hot rod/race type setup with no creature comforts--hence the simplification statement
^this. I'll slap in mechanical oil pressure and temp gaugues. maybe a tach.
i am oversimplifying this to a degree...
but the eec system is "on" wired through a diode with the pdb on most of these past 92, and as that on a older eec4 truck you can generally unhook the plug right from the firewall and simply bypass the dashboard and key functions by running power with a jumper from the battery to the lil radio capacitor deal at the ignition module or powering through the diode like mentioned earlier.
when i do this....with one wire and a quarter to jump the solonoid to start someones donor car.... the look is priceless. this simple breakdown of just how stand alone the older systems are really drops the fear factor...
you see so many guys with swap disasters that say efi is harder because they did not take the time to define the goals first.... or worse, and typical...assclowns who never swapped anything into anything say a carb is much easier, its just fawking sickening...
like i said i am over simplifying the situation, because any setup can have oversights that cause drivability issues...
as described going through the pdb like mentioned in my first post,
it wont be right as the o2 heaters generally dont work as they can be powered on a seperate key on circuit, figuring that out is easy though...simply put key on power to each o2 heater wire.... and on many systems you will have to power the fuel pump separately when shitcanning the firewall plug altogether....bypass powering the fuel pump is also easy for the average guy to figure out.. ....
and working with it from there makes it easier.
what exactly are you working with? if it is pats equipped the easy way is to retain the firewall as much as possible and cab wiring that is part of it. pretty much leave the thing in tact from firewall to radiator. keep all the wiring.
if you want to shitcan the oem steering column/wiring and you have pats then you have to decide which way to go, turning off the pats imo is the best way to go and you can eliminate some of the extra emmision components to streamline the powertrain controls. cut it down to two o2 sensors and the air meter and ignition sensors.
i would have to look at a 2000 specifically to figure out the best suggestions....or if its best just to send it to me for a re work...if i have time tomorrow i will look at a 2000 setup and get an idea.
I'm no stranger to efi swaps. have done (3) 5.0's into jeeps/broncos/buggies and a jeep 5.2 into a cj-7. but all were OBD1 hence my questions here.
What you are describing above is EXACTLY like the 5.2 swap. im excited at what im hearing because it shold be a cakewalk (assuming you are right. lol)
what im confused about is the PATS. what is it? how do i know if i have it? Is there any reason i would want to keep it? (this thing sounds like an STD)
I dont need or want the OEM column or key.
i will most likely be shitcanning the ABS system, is this going to cause me any troubles?
likely wont be working with the OEM cooling system (but possibly if the radiator will fit into the new grill.)
will keep the fuel system to not complicate things any more.
thanks for all your help.
Here's what im building. the draggin wagon rod. slam the ranger chassis on the ground. and body swap this onto it. this is to be a CHEAP project. so far i am into it $0.00 and have procured the running chassis, body, front drop beam axle, tires, wheels.
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