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Cam syncronizer from scratch


trucksling

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Sorry for the ten thousandth post on this, but I have two specific questions not addressed directly in the many many how-to guides I've found.

We used a 1994 donor for a 5-speed swap. The engine in that truck was much lower mileage and in generally better shape. So we used it too. There's a couple differences as you know, but everything swapped directly. One of those differences is the 94 just had a cover over the oil pump drive where the 97 has the cam position sensor. So here's the questions..

All the how-to's start with a known position. I'm starting from scratch. They usually say to rotate the engine to 10 degrees ATDC prior to removal. Why? If you know where your rotor (gate?) position is by removing the sensor and marking it, why can't you just install the new one in the same position? Or, similarly, just rotate the engine until the alignment tool fits. Then transfer the tool to the new part and drop it in?

Either way. I have the alignment tool and a new sensor, but I've seen a couple different crankshaft positions mentioned. With the tool inserted, where should the timing be on a 97 4.0L?
 


adsm08

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Put the crank at TDC, cylinder 1 compression. Center the vane in the window.
 

trucksling

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I'm pretty sure centered is where the tool holds it, but I'll double check. And at TDC. So the 0 degree mark on the damper at the top on the compression stroke?
Thanks!
 

Vincenthdfan

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Funny you mention this...I'm doing the exact opposite at this moment.

Putting a fresher 97 4.0 in place of my tired 93 4.0.

So my question is...if I pull that Camshaft Sensor from the 97 to put the plug from my 93 on the motor, what is under that plug??

I haven't pulled it yet...is there any position of the crank or pistons that I need to take note of before pulling it?

Or is it just a dummy plug/cover??

I cant find any info on it anywhere?
 

trucksling

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The cover is part of a housing that holds the oil pump drive. So the bottom of it has a gear that engages a gear on the cam and splined hole that fits over the shaft that drives the oil pump. Just like the bottom of an old distributor.
Engine position doesn't matter, but you may have to turn it and re-insert it a few times to engage the shaft and the gear at the same time. If they don't, you won't be able to push it all the way down.
 

Vincenthdfan

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The cover is part of a housing that holds the oil pump drive. So the bottom of it has a gear that engages a gear on the cam and splined hole that fits over the shaft that drives the oil pump. Just like the bottom of an old distributor.
Engine position doesn't matter, but you may have to turn it and re-insert it a few times to engage the shaft and the gear at the same time. If they don't, you won't be able to push it all the way down.
Thank you...that makes perfect sense.
 

adsm08

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I'm pretty sure centered is where the tool holds it, but I'll double check. And at TDC. So the 0 degree mark on the damper at the top on the compression stroke?
Thanks!
Yes.
 

trucksling

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I just wanted to follow up with this being the solution. I found this setup early on and installed it this way (tool in/0 degrees timing), but the engine didn't run. Turns out it was the junkyard ecu causing that problem. New ecu and it started right up.

I was doubting myself because of all this how-to's and youtube videos were saying to carefully mark the position before removal. Lots of 10 degree ATDC. Lots of mentions of the direction the sensor sits after install. One said TDC and then measure 23mm around the damper and rotate the engine that far. I have no idea why any of this matters.

I suppose the alignment tool was pricey as some point. It's just a 5 cent injection molded cap. The new $30 syncronizer I bought came with one. I didn't know that and had already purchased a set of five for all the motors which cost all of $6.

Anyway, like adsm08 said. TDC with sensor vane centered where the pickup is, and you're done. And the practically free tool holds it there if you have it.
 

adsm08

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There were two styles of sensors for the 4.0, that roughly correlate to the OBD1/2 split for use. The early version it is correct that you set the engine at 10* ATDC.

And those tools were no always cheap, nor did they always come with the part. In the case of Motorcraft ones I think they still don't, because Ford is expecting those will be sold and installed at the dealer where they already have a tool.

Aftermarket ones like BWD/SMP or Dorman are likely packaged with the expectation that they will be done by a DIYer who doesn't own the tool.
 

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