Hole in Frame

bilbo · Dec 13, 2018

I got after repairing a rusted through spring bucket on the passenger side yesterday and found a hole rusted through the web of the frame rail. It wasn't all that surprising, but I'm wondering if/how it can be fixed. The truck is a 1983 2wd Ranger. I thought about welding plates over it, but that would move the spring bucket outboard the thickness of the plate. Maybe that's not a big deal? I guess I could plate the inside of the web, but access would be tough so I'd like to avoid that if I can. Also, if I plate it, would I just plate the web or should I plate the top/bottom flanges as well?

alwaysFlOoReD · Dec 13, 2018

I plated mine on my racetruck, see link below. It wasn't as bad as yours. The top and bottom flanges depends on thickness left. Bottom more important than top IMO.

bilbo · Dec 13, 2018

Thanks for the info. That's an interesting approach, to add to the bucket and spread the load out instead of adding metal to the frame (unless I missed something). On mine, the flanges looked ok. I'm going to take a closer look today. I suspect if there are issues it will be with the bottom one, as the bucket wraps around the bottom providing that tiny space for water and salts to do their most efficient work.

adsm08 · Dec 13, 2018

I had this exact hole in my truck, maybe not as big.

What we did was got some chunks of frame metal, welded a plate inside the rail covering the hole, then redrilled for the bucket bolt holes to go through both pieces. Then we cut the hole out of the outside, and welded new plate in there and redrilled again.

The repair sat flush to the rest of the frame.

I also had the luxury of having the body off and the frame in a billion pieces at the time.

91stranger · Dec 13, 2018

That's a nice size hole you got there. That's really close to where those frame like breaking. Mine broke right in front of the driver side front leaf spring bracket. This is definitely repairable though. I would find a friend whos good with a welder and start calling around metal fab shops for prices. You can take a piece of cardboard and trace the frame (if you are repairing the curved part of frame) and use that for a template. I had a nice piece of 1/4" steel c channel I paid $5 for from the fab shop next door. I literally paid for the scrap weight for the metal lol. I would inspect the rest of your frame if you have a hole that big.

bilbo · Dec 13, 2018

I shouldn't have too much trouble with getting metal, and should be able to find someone good at welding to actually do it. Where do we put the patch, though? Inside, outside, both? I'll look when I get home, but I'm not sure I'll have room to use adsm08's method without removal of the engine.

91stranger · Dec 14, 2018

Inside if you can that way your bolt holes still line up properly. It's more of a PITA but it will be worth it. Definitely want to get it repaired before it breaks and loses more integrity. Start with the inside and if it seems like it still needs more plating then you can add to the outside and make adjustments as you go. A good 1/4" steel plating on the inside will be plenty strong enough as long as you have a long enough piece to weld to goo metal. Have you checked the rest of your frame? I would suspect the rear end of the frame is probably in the same condition. They make replacement kits for the rear that are really nice.

bilbo · Dec 14, 2018

Someone mentioned to me that the frame is tempered/heat treated and can't be welded on. I'm not sure about that, but I did not notice anything else welded on from the factory so maybe it's true?

Bird76Mojo · Dec 14, 2018

Be aware, the rust and the hole that you can see, it's gonna be MUCH larger once you start cutting to get to good steel. That's how rust is. On body panel work, if there's a pinhole in the panel, the actual rust is at least the size of your palm. That's always been the rule of thumb for body work. I had a couple pinholes in my cab corners and the pieces I had to cut out were 8"x8" and larger. Just to get to good, weldable steel.

I suspect that once you start grinding/cutting to get to good steel to weld to, you'll quickly find that rust hole is gonna be massive. Barely repairable in my opinion. It'll probably fold up like a taco someday. It certainly will in a wreck.

If it were me, I'd be looking for a better, complete frame. But that's the welder/fabricator in me knowing how steel rusts and strength is affected...

Sure, it can be patched and give you a few more years of service, but safe? Eh...

GB

bilbo · Dec 14, 2018

Yeah I haven't started grinding back yet, but I know how that goes. I know it's not going to be full strength if repaired. I use this truck for carting me back and forth to work about 20 miles each day. Really all I'm hoping for is another couple of years service out of it before it goes to its final resting place.

85_Ranger4x4 · Dec 14, 2018

I need to change a bucket on mine and half scared what is behind there.

Really tempted to add a drain hole like it should have had from the factory.

bilbo · Dec 14, 2018

I was thinking the same thing. The shape of the bucket kind of funnels stuff in there. For what its worth, the buckets are kind of hard to find. If you don't have one yet, I bought mine from ATSprings and it looks to be the right one, despite not technically being for my year truck.

I checked over the drivers side and that one's pretty solid. Probably because the power steering pump and gear have been leaking there for God knows how long.

85_Ranger4x4 · Dec 14, 2018

bilbo said:
I was thinking the same thing. The shape of the bucket kind of funnels stuff in there. For what its worth, the buckets are kind of hard to find. If you don't have one yet, I bought mine from ATSprings and it looks to be the right one, despite not technically being for my year truck.

I checked over the drivers side and that one's pretty solid. Probably because the power steering pump and gear have been leaking there for God knows how long.

Yup, no idea why they are so scarce. Does it look like it will fit your '83? I know that question has came up before?

Same, my DS looks mint. PS made its own drain hole. :black_eye:

bilbo · Dec 15, 2018

I checked with the one I have and it looks like it would bolt right up to the factory holes. Mines the one from ATSprings that is listed for 88-94 or something like that.

rangerenthiusiast · Dec 15, 2018

bilbo said:
Someone mentioned to me that the frame is tempered/heat treated and can't be welded on. I'm not sure about that, but I did not notice anything else welded on from the factory so maybe it's true?

I’m no expert, but that seems unlikely. I’ve only started welding this year (still a total novice) and haven’t welded anything on the frame of my 1992 yet.

Digression aside, I say this because when I was plating the tops of my rotted out body mount brackets over the summer, I noticed something about the ones up front (under the radiator support). Whereas the others were all fastened to the frame with giant rivets, the ones up front were actually welded onto the front end of the frame.

Also, my brother bought a 1999 with a frame that broke just 3 months later. I told him about the replacement kits they sell for it and he welded it on with no problem (other than few beers and a little cussing). Good luck, man! :icon_welder:

Hole in Frame

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Forum Staff Member

Well-Known Member

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Forum Staff Member

Well-Known Member

Forum Staff Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals