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Brake Line Test / Swap / Replace


backporch

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I noticed pretty rusted brake lines on a 99 ranger I just picked up. I have several questions I hope that experienced owners might be able to answer

These are by far the worst brake lines on any car I have owned and I am concerned when and how they will fail. I would like to be able to determine if they are sound, but not sure how to do that.

Questions....

First, what is the point of the spring that runs the length of the line? protection? an early warning system for rotted lines?

Is there a best practice to keep the lines from getting any worse? paint? POR15?

Can the lines be pulled from a truck in one piece without any serious disassembly of components? I am considering pulling lines from a u-pull-it yard.

Has Ford made any changes to the Ranger over the years, other than ABS? Wondering if newer rangers would be good candidates for pulling the lines.

Finally, I realize that new lines can be made and this may be the most sensible way to go. At first glance the flaring tool is not inexpensive, but maybe that can be a loaner tool from an auto parts store. Any suggestions on brake line material and where to source?

Thanks for all the help.
 


IIBRONCOS

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Check out this Ebay auction. I bought one of their kits and hand bent all of the lines myself for my 1988 B2. Also look at the quality of their tubing. It is superior to the stuff in auto stores. And you don't need the coils wrapped around the lines. That stuff collects mud and road junk and rusts the lines out. How is that a safety feature ? You also don't need to flare any lines with their kit. Ebay #362201576456
 

pjtoledo

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where the line passes between the frame and fuel tank is real tight. you'll need some skinny fingers to get in there but it can be done.
any kind of thick oil you can spray on the lines will help delay corrosion.
 

adsm08

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The "spring" is not a spring. It is a coiled wrap. It is supposed to keep the lines protected from rubbing and elements, and it seems to work for a while.

You have three options for replacement line material. Stainless steel, PVC (Polyvinyl coated) Stainless, and NiCop. All of these are fairly corrosion resistant on their own. Beyond that, keep the underside clean. Hit up your drive-through car wash and get the under carriage spray once a week or so through the winter.


If the fuel tank is removed the lines can be removed in one piece, but don't do that. Do not use used brake lines. Don't worry about changes because don't use used lines.

If you start with a fresh roll you can drop a nut on it, flare the end, then fish it up past the tank quite easily. This is easily the hardest part of the job.

Buy this tool:
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=CAL161&source=froogle&kw=CAL161&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhrbTBRCFARIsACY7MW1t4HyCzFllRZUvCKrJGigacuC4rmUkonXSIPBwqXnH2RLbKHMxyO0aAuf7EALw_wcB

I have used a lot of different flaring tools. This is my favorite one that doesn't cost $300. Flaring with it is easy. The two things to keep in mind are to file down the edges of the line to take the corners off before starting, and don't over-do it. A slightly under flared line will usually finish forming itself once the nut is tightened. A slightly over-flared line will usually crack at the flare and leak once the nut is tightened.

Spring for a 25 foot roll of NiCop line. Get some new line nuts (use the short ones). It costs about twice as much as stainless, is much nicer and easier to work with, and will last longer than any of the stainless steel options.

A single roll should be enough to replace all the lines on your truck and have a some left over.
 
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backporch

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double flare?

Thanks for the posts. Great to learn some new things here.

I will not look for used lines. Will evaluate what I have and look to replace with new in warmer weather.

I mentioned double flare in the title because I remember seeing posts that brake lines had to have a double flare ends and I wonder if that is true and if the tool mentioned is capable of doing that. If memory serves me, the double flare had the advantage of being less likely to separate under pressure.

I see a coil of NiCopp is not too pricey. $21 with some fittings online. If anyone knows the specs of line size 3/16 or 1/4 and fitting size would be good to know.

Keep up the good work and appreciate the knowledge transfer.
 

adsm08

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The one I linked to should be the one for a double inverted flare. Proper bubble flare dies are a little different, but in a pinch you can use inverted flare dies. The big difference is that for the double inverted flare after you smash the end of the line with the die you take it out and run the coned end of the screw down on your first flare to make the inverted cone. That's why it is called a double flare. Be aware that some of your line ends are going to have bubbles. Personally I would just use a line adapter to go from a bubble to an inverted end. The line adapter is just an extra fitting that goes into the block and then your line goes into that. Been running them on my truck for 5 years without problems.

Ford uses 3/16 line on all the vehicles I know of. Some of the bigger trucks may use 1/4", but I have never run into it on a Ford.

That's a good price for NiCopp. In store a 25' roll is about $50.

I don't remember off the top of my head the threading for the line nuts. I usually find it is best to just take your existing ones down to the local parts store and make sure you get what you need.
 

backporch

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Cheap replacement lines??

I must retract my earlier statement about inexpensive brake lines on amazon. It seems that some of the reviewers say those lines have rusted and can be attracted to a magnet, so they are not as they have been described.

Probably good deals to be found online, but I would suggest reading reviews and not going with a price that is too good to be true.
 

adsm08

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backporch

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Lines between ABS and Calipers

Didn't touch the brakes yet on this never ending project.

My lines between the abs booster and calipers are going to be replaced. Is the line at the ABS booster just a double flare like the others? Can that compression female threaded fitting be reused?

I am also curious if I need to do anything special near the booster to account for the movement between the body and chassis? Looks like the factory lines have a flex portion to eliminate stress on the lines. Is that an issue for the softer copper/nickel lines if I were to run them without any coiling/loops?

Also, can someone verify... The lines are 3/16 and the fittings are 3/8 x 24 male threaded.

One final note... my original lines have a wire spring protective casing everywhere but over the back axle. Wondering if this was already replaced. The flex line goes from the frame to the top of the axle near the pumpkin and hard lines go from there to each wheel. There is no spring casing and they look to be in reasonable/good shape.

Thanks.
 

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WTF is an "ABS booster"? Are you talking about the vacuum booster, or the ABS module? An "ABS booster" isn't a thing.

For the purpose of this answer I am going to assume that you meant the hydraulic portion of the ABS module, since there are no hydraulic lines going to the brake booster.

The best way to go with the lines to the ABS module would be to to get the actual flex lines. If those are not an option, and you can't coil the new line, just leave some extra space on it and that should provide enough flex.

I am not really sure about the threading, or the flare type at the ABS module. Best to pull the lines and look. Many use different flares and threads for the input and output sides to make mixing them up impossible.

I think all of your down-stream fittings will be 3/16 line with 3/8x24 threads. All the ones going to the wheels and soft hoses are anyway.

Your rear axle lines may have been replaced. Only real way to know for sure is to call up everyone who ever owned that truck and ask.
 

backporch

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There was an earlier post where someone said that 25' was enough to do all the brake lines. I have an extended cab, so that cost me a little more line to reach the rear.

I followed the factory bends and was able to do the driver front wheel and the line to the rear flex connection above the rear axle and there was not enough left to do the line to the passenger side front brake.

To replace every inch of brake line, probably closer to 35 to 40'
 

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There was an earlier post where someone said that 25' was enough to do all the brake lines. I have an extended cab, so that cost me a little more line to reach the rear.

I followed the factory bends and was able to do the driver front wheel and the line to the rear flex connection above the rear axle and there was not enough left to do the line to the passenger side front brake.

To replace every inch of brake line, probably closer to 35 to 40'
Thanks for the update.
 

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