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Need some info on TTB ball joint replacement


cstarbard

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Hey guys,

When I aligned my truck (1996 2.3 4x4) I noticed one of the upper ball joints is quite loose. Once the camber caster bushing was removed, I could move the stud with literally no effort at all. I wasn't able to see any play in the ball joint before disassembly, but the other ball joint was stiff to move as I would expect and I don't feel great about how loose this one is, so I'd like to replace the loose one.

From what I understand, the lower ball joint has to be removed in order to get the upper one out. Is that correct? If that's the case, I'd like to replace the lower one as well since it will already be coming out.

My other questions are:

Is a standard ball joint press kit all that's needed for this job? (other than impact, jack, wrenches, sockets and other obvious tools... all of which I have). I just want to make sure I won't need any specialty tools to do this.

Looking up Moog ball joints for my application, I see that they specify different ball joints for the Dana 28 vs. the Dana 35. I have the hybrid axle on my truck, but my understanding is that on the hybrid axle, at least for my era Ranger, all the front end parts are the same as a D35 except that I have the special diff housing and smaller shafts going into the differential. And a slightly different front driveshaft. But the ball joints should be the same as used on a Dana 35, correct? Was there another era Ranger with the D28 that used different ball joints for some reason?

Thanks.
 


Denisefwd93

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Hey guys,

When I aligned my truck (1996 2.3 4x4) I noticed one of the upper ball joints is quite loose. Once the camber caster bushing was removed, I could move the stud with literally no effort at all. I wasn't able to see any play in the ball joint before disassembly, but the other ball joint was stiff to move as I would expect and I don't feel great about how loose this one is, so I'd like to replace the loose one.

From what I understand, the lower ball joint has to be removed in order to get the upper one out. Is that correct? If that's the case, I'd like to replace the lower one as well since it will already be coming out.

My other questions are:

Is a standard ball joint press kit all that's needed for this job? (other than impact, jack, wrenches, sockets and other obvious tools... all of which I have). I just want to make sure I won't need any specialty tools to do this.

Looking up Moog ball joints for my application, I see that they specify different ball joints for the Dana 28 vs. the Dana 35. I have the hybrid axle on my truck, but my understanding is that on the hybrid axle, at least for my era Ranger, all the front end parts are the same as a D35 except that I have the special diff housing and smaller shafts going into the differential. And a slightly different front driveshaft. But the ball joints should be the same as used on a Dana 35, correct? Was there another era Ranger with the D28 that used different ball joints for some reason?

Thanks.
I actually know the answers! we did them on my 93 about 3 years ago the bottom ball joint has to come out ball joint press works and it's very good for the job but it is still very hard work. The pinch bolts that hold the upper caster bushing and ball joint stud in place were rusted and rounded over on my truck. Before drilling for hours and hours I picked up a set of Irwin extractor sockets they saved the day!
 

cstarbard

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Thanks Denise, glad to hear that a regular ball joint press will do.

Luckily my pinch bolts are in good shape and come free easily, having just changed the camber caster bushings and having just aligned it.

Hope someone can fill me on whether I need the D35 ball joints or the D28 ball joints.
 

4x4junkie

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The '83-'90 Dana28 uses the different ball joints.

Yes, ball joint studs should have some amount of stiffness. It being floppy (or close to it) is a sign of wear (actual slop will very soon follow).
 

cstarbard

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Thanks for the help ^^

Slop turned into a noticeable amount of play just like you said and I figured. Rented a press and will be replacing driver upper today. Too bad the lower one needs to come out too.

Chris
 

adsm08

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Thanks for the help ^^

Slop turned into a noticeable amount of play just like you said and I figured. Rented a press and will be replacing driver upper today. Too bad the lower one needs to come out too.

Chris
That's why you do them in pairs.

Also, technically it is possible to get the top one out with the bottom one in, it's just a lot harder to do it that way. You have to kajigger the rig so that the screw faces up and the tool still pushes the joint out. Most of them aren't designed to have the receiving cup on the screw side, because the cup is designed to let the stud go through it, so it has a big hole.

IIRC you need the bigger kit, and use one of the "wafers" (the stepped discs) on the back of the tallest cup, with a shallow socket in the shallowest receiving cup to push on the bottom of the joint. You may also have to cut the stud off the ball joint for that to work.

I know I did it once when I was being cheap and my upper joint went about a month after replacing the lower (the being cheap part came a month before when I didn't just do them both) and while I did get it I decided that it had not been worth the effort.
 

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