Replacement Shocks

Hi,

I have a 1996 4.0L XLT 4x4. In the front I have Skyjacker 132x 2 in lift coils. In the back, I have explorer leafs and the stock lift block, I figure 2 inch lift there, too. 30 in tires. My shocks and tires are both shot; but I want to replace the shocks before I get new 31" tires, to prevent cupping like the 30's got.

I went to Skyjacker's website, and their site shows that with a 2 inch lift, they include 2xH7060 and 2xH7052 (2 front, 2 back) but then when I looked those part numbers up on their site, under specifications, they list both of those as 'oem'.

Huh? Does that just mean that 2 inches isn't enough of a lift to justify getting different sized shocks? If that case, should I just go down to the local autozone and just get whatever they have in stock? I'd hate to have to replace them again in a few month because 2 inches of lift stressed them out.

What do you guys think? I figured skyjacker just because I knew the brand name from buying the lift coil. Is there another brand you'd recommend?

Typically 2" lift isn't enough to require new shocks, though if you can find something that is 1-2" longer than the OEM lengths that has the correct mounting configuration, it certainly would not hurt to get ones that are slightly longer (you may need to look in various shock applications books to find this type of info).

I'm pretty sure shocks for a 3" lift application would be too long for yours though.

As for brands, KYB is a good brand that isn't too expensive. Above that you have brands like Bilstein and Fox. Skyjacker's Nitro line is decent, but I wouldn't mess around with their Hydro stuff (or any other shock that is not gas-pressurized).

It could be the oem they are referring to is the '86-'87 Ranger STX Hi-rider. It had a factory 1.5"-2" lift. I read somewhere those shocks are no longer available.

The 1987-90 "Hi-Rider" isn't as much a "Lift" as it is a geometrically correct "Front leveling" kit for those STUPID-PEOPLE that think (if you can call it thinking) that a 4x4 truck is supposed to sit LEVEL.

And as a side note look like a dog with worms (dragging it's ass around) when you have a full tank of gas and a couple bags of groceries in the bed...


If I've offended anyone with my statements above here is my pro-forma
"I'm sorry you are butt hurt, but that happens when you don't think things through and forget the most important basic truth: It's a Truck, STUPID!!!

Oh and for the record the front shocks only need to be about 1-1/4" longer


FWIW I run part of a "high-rider" front suspension on my truck, specifically the radius arm brackets,
with welded on lift plates and blocks, this was not done to "lift" the truck in any way...

This was done to build a large amount of caster into the basic alignment....

I built my ranger with the intention of doing a lot of towing, and caster improves self-centering an other effects all of which suit my driving style...


FWIW-2 I run Bilstein shocks on my truck

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AllanD said:

The 1987-90 "Hi-Rider" isn't as much a "Lift" as it is a geometrically correct "Front leveling" kit for those STUPID-PEOPLE that think (if you can call it thinking) that a 4x4 truck is supposed to sit LEVEL.

And as a side note look like a dog with worms (dragging it's ass around) when you have a full tank of gas and a couple bags of groceries in the bed...

Click to expand...

That's why I call them "jackass kits".

4x4junkie said:

Typically 2" lift isn't enough to require new shocks, though if you can find something that is 1-2" longer than the OEM lengths that has the correct mounting configuration, it certainly would not hurt to get ones that are slightly longer (you may need to look in various shock applications books to find this type of info).

I'm pretty sure shocks for a 3" lift application would be too long for yours though.

As for brands, KYB is a good brand that isn't too expensive. Above that you have brands like Bilstein and Fox. Skyjacker's Nitro line is decent, but I wouldn't mess around with their Hydro stuff (or any other shock that is not gas-pressurized).

Click to expand...

I actually did some more searching and found the chart in tech page (http://therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2009/shock_dimensions.htm)

I'm not getting new shocks because of a lift, I'm getting new shocks because the old ones were completely worn and the truck was bouncing all over. I did end up going with the Skyjacker 7060/7052, because they were a decent price on amazon ($33.99 apiece) and had prime shipping, plus I do 90% daily driving, 10% dirt roads/light wheeling.
The back pair got here yesterday and I installed them - they fit great, and the back feels *much* better. The fronts are supposed to get here today, and I'll put those in this evening.

Thanks for your input, guys!

One more question... does the orientation matter on these shocks? They didn't come with instructions, and I think I may have put them on upside down.

OEM shocks orientation matters. There should be something stamped in saying "this side up" [or down]. The body of the shock is usually at the bottom. I tried putting OEM shocks upside down for less unsprung weight on my racetruck and it was like I had no shocks.

alwaysFlOoReD said:

OEM shocks orientation matters. There should be something stamped in saying "this side up" [or down]. The body of the shock is usually at the bottom. I tried putting OEM shocks upside down for less unsprung weight on my racetruck and it was like I had no shocks.

Click to expand...

They feel just fine. I bounced up and down on the rear bumper and the shocks dampened it just fine. But after doing some reading, turns out these are designed to be body side down, boot side up. Guess I gotta flip them around when I get home. I don't there would be any damage done driving them just 30 miles.

Bilstein is a top notch shock. Expensive yet built to last for many years.

MagicMexican said:

They feel just fine. I bounced up and down on the rear bumper and the shocks dampened it just fine. But after doing some reading, turns out these are designed to be body side down, boot side up. Guess I gotta flip them around when I get home. I don't there would be any damage done driving them just 30 miles.

Click to expand...

I did the same; jumping on the bumper, felt fine. When I was on the track it was like I had no shocks. I'm definitely not a shock expert and some of my shocks are used, well used....so could be on the way out or fubared from that run.

https://www.facebook.com/lynn.baglole.9/videos/10156164726975574/

Awesome run, my head, kidneys, and knees would be killing me lol.

truckfan said:

Bilstein is a top notch shock. Expensive yet built to last for many years.

Click to expand...

There is one shock brand I'd buy before Bilstein, Koni.

But Koni's for a Gen1-3 Ranger are basically "Unobtanium"...

I'm currently on my second set of Bilsteins, a couple years ago I broke the lower ear off of a front and last fall my tailpipe broke and the exhaust was aimed at one of the rears, and it's internal gas charge blew all the oil out of it, once it got hot enough to melt the shaft seal... made a mess and a huge cloud of smoke when it went too....


I wil never forget the day when some yard monkey at the U-pull-it was torching some stuff off a car and torched into a Koni to relieve the pressure...

The gas is mainly meant to keep the oil from foaming, and it's only nitrogen but it will blow the oil out of the shock in a fine atomized spray and if some moron is providing an ignition source when that fast moving oil hits the air...

It looks rather like a muzzle flash from a Battleship that has been mated with a flamethrower... but burning hydraulic oil from a shock is harder to extinguish...


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