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Trouble Bleeding your clutch?


Sasquatch_Ryda

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rrbrian222

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July 15, 2011 Update:

Perfection Clutch just added a NEW, updated video to their Ranger/B Series Tech Support page. These guys really go the extra mile to help explain and illustrate the best way to diagnose and bleed the hydraulic clutch system. It might be a good idea to thank them by purchasing their parts the next time you need to service your clutch. Their videos have really helped me out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91IYY_YENRw
 

shane96ranger

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These are great. I wish I would have had these when I still had my Explorer. They would have saved me some money for sure!
 

PANTERA

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July 15, 2011 Update:

Perfection Clutch just added a NEW, updated video to their Ranger/B Series Tech Support page. These guys really go the extra mile to help explain and illustrate the best way to diagnose and bleed the hydraulic clutch system. It might be a good idea to thank them by purchasing their parts the next time you need to service your clutch. Their videos have really helped me out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91IYY_YENRw
Just picked up their clutch kit yesterday. Looking forward to installing it and getting my rusty baby back on the road!!!:icon_thumby:
 

Srphatness

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Works well with a good slave cyl

This technique works well when you put a new slave cylinder in.
I hasn't worked on either one of my bad slaves though. I have to "pump-bleed" the leaky cylinders like brakes to keep them going until I get time to drop the transmission and replace the slave.

An I also would NOT buy the perfection slave cylinder. The first thing you will notice is that the stock slave cylinder has a tin rubber boot covering the spring, protecting the sliding parts from contamination (clutch dust). The perfection cylinder has no boot. All of the sliding parts and the spring are exposed. The stock slave cylinder lasted six years, the perfection cylinder lasted 2 F*ing years. I just had to drop the transmission to replace it again:annoyed: piece of junk.
Replace the slave cylinder with one that has a boot. NOT A PERFECTION :pissedoff:
 

fixizin

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... the stock slave cylinder has a tin rubber boot covering the spring, protecting the sliding parts from contamination (clutch dust). The perfection cylinder has no boot. All of the sliding parts and the spring are exposed...
Replace the slave cylinder with one that has a boot. NOT A PERFECTION :pissedoff:
Oh, cruel irony... calling your product "Perfection", and missing a feature like that... :dunno:

Mr. Phat, at what kind of odometer miles did these respective slave cylinders give out? Lot of in-town frequent-shift driving, or off-roading, or...?

Just curious, gonna have to do this exercise myself... sooner or later... :bawling:
 

kryptonitecb

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The ones from O'Reilly's don't have the boot either fyi.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 

racsan

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the slave from autozone has the boot, just did mine. did the master & line replacement late spring of this year, followed the video & was really helpfull. when i changed the slave, it was easy, just let the fluid gravity feed through the slave then pumped the clutch a couple of times and it was good to go.
 

lil red

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Thanks for posting, been years since I've been on trs and this simple video fixed my month long problem, great post and thanks allot for sticking it
 

J.Allen

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HELP
I need info- the Clutch pedal goes to the floor and stays there; I have bled the clutch; followed the videos on 'burping' the master and bled the clutch again, to no avail it goes and stays to the floor; could it be the Clutch Release Cylinder? or what? Tranny in '98 Ranger 3.0L
 
Last edited:

RangerFabWorks

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For anyone else who has trouble bleeding these clutch systems. Here's a trick

Get a good clear hose. Run it from the driver side caliper bleeder to the slave cylinder bleeder. Open both bleeders. Slowly pump the brakes. This Will reverse bleed the clutch. And push the air out the reservoir.
 

Thertzler10

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For anyone else who has trouble bleeding these clutch systems. Here's a trick

Get a good clear hose. Run it from the driver side caliper bleeder to the slave cylinder bleeder. Open both bleeders. Slowly pump the brakes. This Will reverse bleed the clutch. And push the air out the reservoir.


Does this really work???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

RangerFabWorks

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Yes. That’s how I’ve always bled them. A ford technician taught me that one.
 

Thertzler10

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Yes. That’s how I’ve always bled them. A ford technician taught me that one.


Ok I’ll try it out. Having problems with bleeding this time around bench bled the system as usual but still have about 2” of play at the top and the tob isn’t disengaging unless I press till the play is out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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