2.3 wont start

So I have a 1990 Ford Ranger 4 X2. With the 2.3 it had a miss somewhere and was hard to start sometimes and would not go above 60 mph. Every time I would shift into 5th gear it would stumble lose power and I would have to downshift back to 4th. It was originally diagnosed as a weak fuel pump because it was hard to start sometimes and will take a few cranks so I unhook the battery check out the relay and replaced the fuel pump. After I hooked everything back up I would turn the key on hear the fuel pump and try to start it. it would start but sometimes it would take turning the key on a few times, so basically priming the engine then it would run but once it burn the fuel off that ran into the the injectors it would die. So all of my problems happened after I replace the fuel pump I replaced the timing belt, the timing belt tensioner, the crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air intake temperature sensor, all new gaskets on the intake, new plugs and wires and new coil packs , also swapped out the ICM and all the relays were replaced. Eventually after messing with it for so long I could get it to start, it would run terrible and I could not put my foot on the gas, so I ran the codes and I got 21 and 24 which is coolant temp sensor out of range, and air intake temperature sensor out of range. Immediately test for voltage at both both sensors and I got 4.6 volts DC which is normal from what I have read. I have redone the timing twice now and from what I understand there is no adjustment for the 2.3 l all my pulleys we're aligned in the correct position. I thought to myself maybe there's a bad ground somewhere and it's not getting the right resistance or voltage at this point I have no idea so I took off the harness and inspected it thoroughly I found a few wires that were broken off. Mainly a ground that went to the crankshaft position sensor and where the heat shrink tied and several grounds. I also inspected the grounding points and cleaned them. After I repaired the harness I put it back in and nothing has changed the truck wants to start but for some reason it is not starting I even pulled out the ECC and inspected it. It did not smell burnt, all the diodes and resistors inside looks brand new and all of the soldering points were intact. I put the computer back in let it sit for a while with the negative battery terminal off, I thought it would reset and those two codes would go away because of the sensors are brand new. I am completely stumps and have no clue what is going on with this Ranger after I put the computer back in I redid the codes and I got a bunch of bogus codes. I got 21, 24, 14, 96 and that's about it I just don't understand that has all new parts and everything was done correctly if anyone has had the similar issue please help and give your input. I can find nothing online about this issue and like I stated before everything happened right after I replace the fuel pump.

To gather the parts replaced, the actions performed, and the current situation I tried to reformat the posting:

"So I have a 1990 Ford Ranger 4 X2. With the 2.3

it had a miss somewhere and was
hard to start sometimes and
would not go above 60 mph.

Every time I would shift into 5th gear it would stumble lose power

and I would have to downshift back to 4th. It was originally diagnosed as a weak fuel pump because

it was hard to start sometimes and will take a few cranks

so I unhook the battery check out the relay and replaced the fuel pump. After I hooked everything back up I would turn the key on hear the fuel pump and try to start it.

it would start but sometimes it would take turning the key on a few times, so basically priming the engine then it would run but once it burn the fuel off that ran into the the injectors it would die. So all of my problems happened after
I replace the fuel pump
I replaced
the timing belt,
the timing belt tensioner,
the crankshaft position sensor,
idle air control valve,
throttle position sensor,
coolant temp sensor,
air intake temperature sensor,
all new gaskets on the intake,
new plugs and
wires and new
coil packs , also swapped out
the ICM and all
the relays were replaced.

Eventually after messing with it for so long
I could get it to start, it would run terrible
and
I could not put my foot on the gas, so
I ran the codes and
I got 21 and 24 which is
coolant temp sensor out of range, and
air intake temperature sensor out of range.
Immediately test for voltage at both both sensors and I got 4.6 volts DC which is normal from what I have read. I have redone the timing twice now and from what I understand there is no adjustment for the 2.3 l
all my pulleys we're aligned in the correct position.

I thought to myself maybe there's a bad ground somewhere and it's not getting the right resistance or voltage at this point I have no idea so I took off the harness
and
inspected it thoroughly
I found a few wires that were broken off.


Mainly a ground that went to the crankshaft position sensor and where the heat shrink tied and several grounds. I also inspected the grounding points and cleaned them. After I repaired the harness I put it back in and nothing has changed

the truck wants to start but for some reason it is not starting

I even pulled out the ECC and inspected it. It did not smell burnt, all the diodes and resistors inside looks brand new and all of the soldering points were intact. I put the computer back in let it sit for a while with the negative battery terminal off, I thought it would reset and those two codes would go away because of the sensors are brand new. I am completely stumps and have no clue what is going on with this Ranger after I put the computer back in

I redid the codes and I got a bunch of bogus codes. I got 21, 24, 14, 96

and that's about it I just don't understand that has all new parts and everything was done correctly if anyone has had the similar issue please help and give your input. I can find nothing online about this issue and like I stated before everything happened right after I replace the fuel pump."

Dunno if it will stay formatted..

Three or 4 things:
No mention of cleaning the MAF, or even looking at it.
No mention of fuel pressure
No mention of fuel delivery volume.
No mention of fuel filter.

It started as 'no power at higher speeds' more or less. That means, generally, starved for fuel(or packed up exhaust/converter).
Things to do would be to check the pressure at the regulator AND
Check the volume the pump was delivering(run the engine for 15 seconds while collecting fuel from the gauge 'bleed'. and do math)
The MAF would cause stumble.

I did not chase the code meanings.

I would check fuel pump pressure AND delivery volume. If inadequate, change the filter and see if it improves.

Current situation is it will not start, correct? If so, do the fuel test, and see what happens.
Did you repair all wires to the crankshaft position sensor and the cam position sensor(on the back of the timing belt cover)...
AND make sure the AUX sprocket was timed properly after replacing the belt?
tom

Tomw the mass airflow was cleaned sorry I forgot to mention that and yes it is getting fuel I do not know how many psi but is definitely something to look into I can press the Schrader valve and fuel squirts out on the hood. it's definitely getting fuel

Shumatesoldier6 said:

Tomw the mass airflow was cleaned sorry I forgot to mention that and yes it is getting fuel I do not know how many psi but is definitely something to look into I can press the Schrader valve and fuel squirts out on the hood. it's definitely getting fuel

Click to expand...

No, that means there is fuel AT the engine, not IN the engine

After cranking, pull out a spark plug, it should be WET with gasoline, then you will know fuel is IN the engine

Just a heads up, the 1989-1994 2.3l only uses the Exhaust side spark plugs and coil pack while cranking the engine, intake side will start to work above 400RPM.
This was done to get a stronger spark on cranking
1995 and up, both coils and all spark plugs fire while cranking


FPR(fuel pressure regulator) on the engine has a vacuum hose attached
Check that hose for gasoline, if FPR leaks then engine can be flooded out by fuel in this vacuum line

RonD said:

No, that means there is fuel AT the engine, not IN the engine

After cranking, pull out a spark plug, it should be WET with gasoline, then you will know fuel is IN the engine

Just a heads up, the 1989-1994 2.3l only uses the Exhaust side spark plugs and coil pack while cranking the engine, intake side will start to work above 400RPM.
This was done to get a stronger spark on cranking
1995 and up, both coils and all spark plugs fire while cranking


FPR(fuel pressure regulator) on the engine has a vacuum hose attached
Check that hose for gasoline, if FPR leaks then engine can be flooded out by fuel in this vacuum line

Click to expand...

RonD i have pulled a plug out and it is wet and getting into the engine. I also pulled tbe fpr hose off and it is dry. There is no fuel in the vacccum lines. I have tried almost everything you can think of. There is no vacccum leaks i have inspected all the lines. I just do t get it with all these new Parts.

Well, unless you have elves that work while you sleep, spinning straw into gold, something you did caused the engine to get to the state it is in. Things may improve if you walk your steps backwards, putting everything back how it was.
Can you start the engine, or does it just crank without starting?
I repeat the suggestion to rotate the crankshaft to TDC, making sure the keyway is at 12:00 o'clock, then pull the plug behind the upper radiator hose and check the triangle/pointer position for cam timing. Dunno if there is a similar access point for the auxiliary shaft, cam position sensor for some model years. I've lost track of your year,etc, too many posts.
tom

It just cranks like I said it wants to start. Sometimes I get a backfire out of the intake. When i did the timing crank keyways was at 12 oclock the cam was aligned with its notch and the oil pump was at the 12oclock position.

Try 50/50 test
Get some gasoline in a spray bottle, or some Quick Start(ether)
Spray some into the engine and try to start it

If it start up fully and then dies, spark is good but you have a fuel delivery problem

If it just fires a bit like before then you have a spark problem
50/50

Narrows it down quite a bit

As said before only the exhaust side coil and spark plugs are working when cranking, so if its spark issue thats were you start


The only sensor that needs to be working is the crank sensor, no other sensor can cause a no start
But if you have some spark and plugs were WET than means crank sensor is sending out a timing pulse
It may be incorrect timing which only effects spark not fuel

2.3 Wont Start

RonD, I am going to check the timing for a third time lol. I kmow all the pulleys were in the right position, but it don't hurt to check. I am aware that the exhaust side is the only side that sparks until 400 rpm then the intake side starts to spark. I will try to spray some fuel in the intake and see if it will start. After I did the timing the second time the exhaust side coil pack seemed weak so I replaced it. I assume that its still sparking just haven't had the time to check that out.

Just do the 50/50 test, it tells you instantly if cam timing and spark timing are correct

So i sprayed fuel in the intake and it wanted to start but it didnt. I pulled out a plug and it was wet with fuel. Kept the plug out and had someone try to start it and i have no spart.

2.3 wont start and no spark

So when I got home from work I messed with it a little bit. I sprayed some fuel into the intake and had someone try to start it, same stuff it Wanted to start but it didn't. I pulled the number one plug out on the exhaust side and had someone crank it while the plug was still connected and touching metal and I had no spark coming from that plug. Could it be a bad ICM? Or maybe the timing needs adjusted?

There is no "timing" adjustment

No spark(exhaust side) would be the coil or ICM issue

ICM doesn't need computer for startup
Crank sensor connects to ICM, Coil connects to ICM

Crank sensor gives ICM the timing
ICM then Grounds the correct coil to spark

The RED/green stripe wire at each coil pack(center wire) should have 12volts with Key on
Crank sensor, ICM and most other 12v engine components share that same Red/light green stripe wire for power when key is on

RonD said:

There is no "timing" adjustment

No spark(exhaust side) would be the coil or ICM issue

ICM doesn't need computer for startup
Crank sensor connects to ICM, Coil connects to ICM

Crank sensor gives ICM the timing
ICM then Grounds the correct coil to spark

The RED/green stripe wire at each coil pack(center wire) should have 12volts with Key on
Crank sensor, ICM and most other 12v engine components share that same Red/light green stripe wire for power when key is on

Click to expand...

Well its not the coil they are both brand new. May be the icm , i will check the voltage on the coils , the icm, and the crank sensor.

"New" used to mean tested and working

"New" now means NEVER TESTED, never sullied by the touch of a human hand, clean, pristine, N E W, lol
"You test it and we will replace it if it doesn't work" is what new means now