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K9 · Feb 9, 2014

Ok i purchased a 93 3.0 auto short bed ranger 2 weeks ago. guy said he had the heads resurfaced and valves done, also trans rebuilt. i bought it backfiring with no power. there was a huge crack in the intake tube so i thought that was the problem, nope fixed that still ran bad. looked at the mass air flow sensor and seen the connector was hacked up to make it fit right, i unplugged it and plugged it in upside down from how it was and it ran better, not great but better, so i looked at pics online of the maf and seen it looked diffrent from the one i had so i went to my local pick a part and got the right one, bam runs great for maybe 4 hours, now its back to backfiring no power.... i had a muffler put on today and they showed me the insides of my cats fell apart. right now at wot it runs ok but normal throttle it backfires and hesitates.

side note, when i first got it when i put gas in it it would leak from the filler neck, now it doesn't, also 3 days ago i filled the tank and hopped on the freeway and drove about 130mi and by then the truck was on E.

RDR · Feb 9, 2014

I wonder if the valves where adjusted right? Is there any codes? I'd also check vaccum lines and o2 sensors. Was the maf used or bought new? If used it clean it with maf cleaner. And as far as the fuel like probly hose clamp or dry rotted filler hose.

RonD · Feb 9, 2014

When you changed the MAF the computer had to relearn it's parameters so was running pre-set fuel/air mix until then, which is why it ran better for a few hours.
At WOT the same thing happens, computer ignores sensors and uses pre-set fuel/air data.
Did you clean the used MAF?

Did you look here and test MAF wires with a voltmeter:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CleanMAF.html

I would
I use sewing pins to pierce the wires, allowing for a live voltage test

The MAF sensor is the main sensor the computer uses for fuel/air mix, until you know for sure it is working right you will be wasting your time looking at anything else.

The O2 sensor data is used for fine tuning fuel/air mix, if Cats were bad then engine was probably running rich for a long time which would mean O2 sensor is probably bad as well, rich mix coats O2 sensor with carbon, but it wouldn't cause your symptoms, so check the MAF first.

And get a new filler hose, sealed fuel system is important.

Does the Check Engine Light(CEL) come on when you first turn on the key, and then go off, that tests if it is working.
Does it come on after engine is started?

When first started cold do the RPMs go up and then stay up around 1,000rpms?
And do the RPMs slowly drop to about 750-800rpms after engine is warmed up?
This is a computer program that runs on cold engine start and tells you computer is working.

K9 · Feb 9, 2014

I will be getting maf cleaner today, i got it used. as for the cel it goes on and off as i drive. i will clean the maf and look at the o2 today and let you guys know. i dont have a voltmeter i will have to use the one at work tomorrow, and RonD i dont have a tachometer

RonD · Feb 9, 2014

Higher idle cold, then lower idle warm, means computer is doing at least one part of it's job.

I know it is not my money, lol.
But a cheap volt/ohm meter will save you money, $10-$15

K9 · Feb 12, 2014

Ok im still waiting on payday to get my parts, this is a pic of my truck at idle.. i rewired and swopped out my cluster

... note i drove the truck for about 30mins b4 i took the picture.

RonD · Feb 12, 2014

Make sure there is a ground strap from one of the heads to the firewall, these are often left off and forgotten about when engines are worked on.

That ground strap is for all the electrics in the cab.

You have a tach now, nice
RPM is high at 1,000, check PCV valve and other larger hoses for cracks and possible air leaks.

Oil pressure is not "real" pressure, in the mid-'80s Ford changed to use an oil pressure SWITCH, so gauge is either up near 1/2 or down at L

Temp looks cooler that mine but that could just be normal for yours, I run just below 1/2.

K9 · Feb 15, 2014

sorry for the delay, this is from what i can see, no ground strap to the head. no vacuum leaks. oil pressure gauge fluctuates like crazy, i swear the needle is going to brake.

Rearanger · Feb 15, 2014

K9 said:
... note i drove the truck for about 30mins b4 i took the picture.

Why is temp gauge so low? Should be 1/2 way I'm thinking.

K9 · Feb 15, 2014

Rearanger said:
Why is temp gauge so low? Should be 1/2 way I'm thinking.

No idea that is as high as it goes

Rearanger · Feb 16, 2014

K9 said:
that is as high as it goes

Check your coolant temp with thermometer it may not have a thermostat in it. This will affect engine running.

K9 · Feb 18, 2014

sad news..... my ranger through a rod.... so i will be doing the 4.0 swop, do's donts? what do i need besides the 4.0 lol ill look into it tomorrow :bawling:

RonD · Feb 18, 2014

Wow, that's too bad, didn't see that coming from problems described.

The 2.9l and 4.0l were made from the same block so those swaps were fairly straight forward.
The 4.0l is not related to the 3.0l in any way, so your best bet will be to get a donor vehicle, for engine/trans, computer and wiring harness.
Cost is almost at the point of a V8/5.0l swap.

Just replacing the bad 3.0l with a good 3.0l would be the most cost effective.

HMFM Miller · Feb 18, 2014

RonD said:
Wow, that's too bad, didn't see that coming from problems described.

The 2.9l and 4.0l were made from the same block so those swaps were fairly straight forward.
The 4.0l is not related to the 3.0l in any way, so your best bet will be to get a donor vehicle, for engine/trans, computer and wiring harness.
Cost is almost at the point of a V8/5.0l swap.

Just replacing the bad 3.0l with a good 3.0l would be the most cost effective.

I agree. My 3.0 self destructed about a year ago. After crunching the numbers, swapping a 4.0 into my truck was gonna run close to what I paid for the truck. I had the 3.0 rebuilt for less than 1200.

K9 · Feb 20, 2014

well unfortunately i don't have the money to rebuild it so im going to get a used one, i just hope i get a good one. then ill be back to square one and need to replace my fuel pump, filler neck, and cats. lovely lol.. ill keep you all up to date with progress. and again thanks for being helpful

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