EGR Always open or something else?

Demi_II · Jun 25, 2013

My BII is running hot. Not hot on the gauge but the intake plenum is hot to the touch. Noticably hotter than it seems like it should be. The gauge reads about 2/5ths up the gauge, or a little below level with the ground. Ive been trying to think what could cause this, if there is even really a problem. The only to things I can think of, is either the new head gasket I put in with the new motor doesnt, have large enough holes for the water journals, or that maybe the EGR is staying open at all times and heating up the plenum and everything else. Its a new motor and new EGR. I dont know if its related but it feels a little down on power and the idle kinda bobs around. Not much but like 200-300 rmp slow sweep. Also when I first crank it, it acts like its going to die and then the revs come back up to idle and it never does this warm. My thoughts are maybe EGR solenoid, and the idle issue could be the MAP sensor. I just thought I would ask you experts before I start shotgunning parts at it. Many thanks.

adsm08 · Jun 25, 2013

The first sentence tells me 100% for sure that the EGR is NOT staying open all the time. The clue there is that it is running. Even small amounts of EGR at idle will stall a gas engine. The EGR valve sticking open was a common cause of no start issues on the Chevy/Geo/Daewoo 1.6L.

The intake is basically a big chunk of aluminum with some holes cut in it, it will get warm. I have burnt myself on 2.9 intakes before. And your temp gauge sounds like it is running in the perfect spot.

If you just put a new engine in it the computer may still be learning, which could cause the rolling idle. Could also be an IAC issue.

Demi_II · Jun 25, 2013

adsm08 said:
The first sentence tells me 100% for sure that the EGR is NOT staying open all the time. The clue there is that it is running. Even small amounts of EGR at idle will stall a gas engine. The EGR valve sticking open was a common cause of no start issues on the Chevy/Geo/Daewoo 1.6L.

The intake is basically a big chunk of aluminum with some holes cut in it, it will get warm. I have burnt myself on 2.9 intakes before. And your temp gauge sounds like it is running in the perfect spot.

If you just put a new engine in it the computer may still be learning, which could cause the rolling idle. Could also be an IAC issue.

Okay, well Im glad you posted adsm. Ill start reading about IACs right now. I have another question for you, and you seem to know all there is to know about this truck. The other day I was driving and suddenly the truck had a violent miss. Almost like fuel cut, or all 6 plugs stop firing at once, and then came back. The tac was jumping all over the place as it surged three or four times. The next day it happened again, and the truck died and wouldnt start. I troubleshot it down to the coil. The coil only has about 3000 miles on it. So i put a new one in and it fired right up. When I put it in gear and start to move forward it would buck and sputter again, and I would have to give it gas to keep it from dieing. I then got one of the loudest backfires Ive ever heard, but the truck ran. It seemed as it warmed up a bit the trouble of getting started went away. However I can hear it missing in first and 2nd at WOT, and only stubles slightly with normal acceleration. I do have a leak in my exhaust manifolds and will be changing them soon, and also in lieu of a screw I used a cotter pin as the screw for the EGR, until I can find one that fits. But even with these issues the truck has ran flawlessly for a month, and this has all just started in the last 24 hours. Any thoughts?

adsm08 · Jun 26, 2013

Check your fuel pressures and your spark quality. Low pressure or a bad TFI can cause that kind of thing too, as could timing.

It would also help to know why you changed the engine out. If it was a head or head gasket blowing out that can cause other problems. Those conditions tend to put coolant down the exhaust which can damage oxygen sensors at cats either of which could also cause the symptoms you describe.

Demi_II · Jun 26, 2013

I changed the engine because the I thought the head gasket went out, because I found snot on the dip stick. Pulled the valve covers and they were horrible with coolant and oil. So I figured head gasket. Swapped it, and it came right back. So I found out that the 2.9 heads crack frequently, so at that point the engine had been lubed with antifreeze for so long, I figured it was good insurance to just swap in a new motor. Its a brand new motor (obviously rebuilt, but you know what I mean) from Marshal Engines in ATL. I will go ahead a swap the AIC, MAP, and o2 sensor this weekend, and see where Im at. Im going to throw new distributor wires on this evening. The ones on there arent terribly old, but I would like to take out as many varibles as possible. I drove the truck today and it didnt miss or sputter at all, Im wondering if the coil was weak and the fuel trims were out of wack. I didnt reset the battery when I changed the coil. Maybe all the drama after the coil change was just fuel trims? Anyway more as it develops, and Ill get those parts changed. Thanks so much for the help adsm. I would be up a creek with out you guys.

Demi_II · Jul 3, 2013

So update guys. I have changed the plug wires, the ignition module, the IAC, MAP and the coil. It wont crank now. Which it would do every now and then as the problem got worse. Sometimes it would and sometimes it wouldnt. Hot or cold didnt seem to play a factor. Plenty of fuel (i think, im gonna smell the plugs tonight), and Im gonna check spark tonight. I got it home, but it was a dicey ride. Before it wouldnt crank it would start, idle and rev fine, but as soon as I would start to roll it would start to die. Same in first and second gear. Then through on and off gas and clutch if I could get it to about 25 mph it would run just fine. It died a few times at speed if I came off the gas, and wouldnt restart unless I dumped the clutch. Then monster afterfires and bucking and then would run fine again. Strangely enough too, after I reinstalled the distributor, if the key was in the on position, and I rotated the dizzy, it would click all the relays like I had just turned the key to on, pretty sure I heard the fuel pump as well. Very weird. So two coils dead, and now no start. Any thoughts? Also while I was driving it home my buddy following me said the smell of fuel was like having your head in a gas tank. I dont have a cat at the moment, so I expect some of that but he said it was really bad, to the point he had to back off.

ALSO, I have recently installed some aftermarket amps, wiring, highoutput alt, and battery terminals. Ive checked and rechecked everything I can think of and it all looks fine. Just didnt want leave anything out.

RonD · Jul 3, 2013

No crank?
As in starter motor won't work?
Often times when your having engine issues the starter gets used a lot more so can fail during this time, may have lasted another year but you used all those starts up in a week, lol.

Check the MAP sensors vacuum line for cracks.
And the connector for corrosion, it's a weaker frequency signal coming out, so any corrosion can be an issue.
MAP sensor sets the air/fuel mix.

"Giving it gas" to keep it running is also "giving it air", so an engine stalling out can be from too much fuel, and opening the throttle plate gives it more air to lean out the mix enough to run better.
Remove a vacuum line(not the MAP line) and see if adding more air helps.
That's what the IAC does, it is a "controlled" vacuum leak, the computer uses it to add more air to the mix and set a steady idle, but it does have a limit on how much air it can let in.
From your friends description it does sound like a rich mix.

Check the vacuum line on the FPR(fuel pressure regulator) on the fuel rail, remove it and check it for gas or gas smell, the FPR's diaphragm can leak which would suck fuel in through that vacuum line causing the richer mix.

The TFI work sheet here can help ID an ignition issue:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html

Coils are easy to test with an OHM meter.
Swapping coils also means moving wires around, so old coil may have been good, you could have a shorting wire in the ignition system, so when doing voltage or ohm testing move the wires around each time you test something, if reading changes then you got a short or loose connection in there.

Demi_II · Jul 3, 2013

Sorry shouldt have said crank. It cranks fine and has a new starter, it just wont start. No cracks in thr map line but ill replace it just incase. Lines are on the FPR, but ill check for fuel when i get home.

EGR Always open or something else?

Demi_II

New Member

adsm08

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Demi_II

New Member

adsm08

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Demi_II

New Member

Demi_II

New Member

RonD

Official TRS AI

Demi_II

New Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Members online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Latest posts

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

Latest Album Photos

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals