Swap to a4ld transmission

Ron15423 · Mar 8, 2018

I know all about how shitty they are but this is what I'm working with. I have an 87 B2 XLT 4x4. I swapped to manual hubs and manual 4x4 from an 88. I rolled my 87 a couple days ago and jacked the body up pretty bad. So my question is this... I found a donor (89 I believe) with no tranny but it was a manual transmission. What do I need to do to put my a4ld in it?

RonD · Mar 8, 2018

A4LD is a good trans if rebuilt by a good shop

You will need your 1987 computer and transmission wiring harness(there will be a clutch switch by-pass)
Column shifter or floor shifter
1987 brake pedal assembly, to get rid of clutch pedal

From what I read the 1989 is not the donor, you are putting 1987(88) trans and transfer case into the 1989 4x4, so rolled 1987 is the donor
Both vehicles should have 2.9l engines

rangerenthiusiast · Mar 8, 2018

Ron15423 said:
I know all about how shitty they are but this is what I'm working with. I have an 87 B2 XLT 4x4. I swapped to manual hubs and manual 4x4 from an 88. I rolled my 87 a couple days ago and jacked the body up pretty bad. So my question is this... I found a donor (89 I believe) with no tranny but it was a manual transmission. What do I need to do to put my a4ld in it?

What’s wrong with the A4LD? I only ask because I just picked up a ’92 Ranger with this trans and wonder if there’s anything I should know?

Thanks.

Ron15423 · Mar 8, 2018

Yes that's right both 2.9s. 87 is now donor. Clutch bypass switch? Just swap the computer? Floor shift. Will I need to change anything as far as flywheel torque converter or anything? Also does the transmission harness plug in or will I need to splice in?

Ron15423 · Mar 8, 2018

rangerenthiusiast said:
What’s wrong with the A4LD? I only ask because I just picked up a ’92 Ranger with this trans and wonder if there’s anything I should know?

Thanks.

They have a bad rap. Some weak points. Keep it cool and clean and you're good.

adsm08 · Mar 8, 2018

rangerenthiusiast said:
What’s wrong with the A4LD? I only ask because I just picked up a ’92 Ranger with this trans and wonder if there’s anything I should know?

Thanks.

Install an air conditioner in your trans and it will be OK.

They have a few specific issues that make a lot of people not trust them.

The one governor can get stuck, which causes it to miss the 1-2 shift, or to shift really high. A revised governor with a heavier weight fixes that.

The vacuum modulator can rupture causing late or missed shifts and getting trans fluid into the intake, similar to a failed fuel pressure regulator and excess gas.

The main pump seal actually has the ability to pop out of place if the trans is overheated causing it to puke rather prodigious amounts of ATF onto the ground, and then once the engine is shut down and the trans cools off it can pop back in by itself. It confuses a lot of people who don't know that and then tow a heavy trailer up a long grade.

If you add a large aux cooler after the rad you will probably never have an issue.

Really those are the big ones. I don't trust the A4LD for one reason and one reason alone. I don't trust any automatic transmission.

I can tear down and M5OD in an afternoon, taking my time, quit at 4, start back to it at 9, and have her ready to go in by lunch, unless I forget the 5th gear retaining ball or the syncro keepers don't want to stay in place. I have yet to get an auto back together correctly on the first try.

RonD · Mar 9, 2018

Ron15423 said:
Yes that's right both 2.9s. 87 is now donor. Clutch bypass switch? Just swap the computer? Floor shift. Will I need to change anything as far as flywheel torque converter or anything? Also does the transmission harness plug in or will I need to splice in?

Yes, you will pull the flexplate off the 1987 engine and put it on the 1989 engine, also swap starter motors

There will be a clutch switch on the clutch pedal push rod, it plugs into the main wiring harness on the '89

The A4LD will have an NSS(neutral safety switch) just above shift linkage, and it will also have 3 wire solenoid plugin just in front of that.
These wires will be removed from the '87 and installed in the '89
Main Ranger wiring harness has the plug ins for both manual and automatic, so as you trace the wires back on the '87 you will find they plug in to the main wiring harness.
Then find those same plugs on the '89s main harness
Part of the NSS wiring plugs into the Clutch switch plug under the dash
Can't say they will be same connector types but should be
Ford changed connector styles over the years, but since you have a donor you can unpin and repin connectors if you run into that

Not sure if your '87 had a column shifter or Floor shifter?
If column shifter then you need to swap over the steering column and part of the dash for the gear indicator.
Or use a custom floor shifter since the hole in the carpet is already there

Computer runs the 2 solenoids in the A4LD, Torque convert lock and 3/4 shift(OD).
Manual trans computer('89) won't have that solenoid control software inside so you need to use the '87 computer.

One heads up and I include this because I paid the price to learn it.
You ALWAYS install a torque converter on the transmission FIRST, then you install the transmission to the engine
The torque converter has slots and splines that must ALIGN inside the transmission to the Main Pump.
You put the torque converter onto the input shaft and push it back towards transmission
It will stop, now turn torque converter as you push back, don't need to push hard
It will slide in more as you turn, keep turning and pushing, should slide in a little more 2 or 3 times
It is now aligned
To make sure put a straight edge across bell housing, torque converter should be back behind straight edge

If you don't do this then when you bolt trans to engine and tighten the bolts you will crack the main pump, and trans will be gone, full rebuild to change the pump.

When engine and trans are bolted tight the torque converter will slide forward and bolt to the flex plate

Ron15423 · Mar 9, 2018

RonD said:
Yes, you will pull the flexplate off the 1987 engine and put it on the 1989 engine, also swap starter motors

There will be a clutch switch on the clutch pedal push rod, it plugs into the main wiring harness on the '89

The A4LD will have an NSS(neutral safety switch) just above shift linkage, and it will also have 3 wire solenoid plugin just in front of that.
These wires will be removed from the '87 and installed in the '89
Main Ranger wiring harness has the plug ins for both manual and automatic, so as you trace the wires back on the '87 you will find they plug in to the main wiring harness.
Then find those same plugs on the '89s main harness
Part of the NSS wiring plugs into the Clutch switch plug under the dash
Can't say they will be same connector types but should be
Ford changed connector styles over the years, but since you have a donor you can unpin and repin connectors if you run into that

Not sure if your '87 had a column shifter or Floor shifter?
If column shifter then you need to swap over the steering column and part of the dash for the gear indicator.
Or use a custom floor shifter since the hole in the carpet is already there

Computer runs the 2 solenoids in the A4LD, Torque convert lock and 3/4 shift(OD).
Manual trans computer('89) won't have that solenoid control software inside so you need to use the '87 computer.

One heads up and I include this because I paid the price to learn it.
You ALWAYS install a torque converter on the transmission FIRST, then you install the transmission to the engine
The torque converter has slots and splines that must ALIGN inside the transmission to the Main Pump.
You put the torque converter onto the input shaft and push it back towards transmission
It will stop, now turn torque converter as you push back, don't need to push hard
It will slide in more as you turn, keep turning and pushing, should slide in a little more 2 or 3 times
It is now aligned
To make sure put a straight edge across bell housing, torque converter should be back behind straight edge

If you don't do this then when you bolt trans to engine and tighten the bolts you will crack the main pump, and trans will be gone, full rebuild to change the pump.

When engine and trans are bolted tight the torque converter will slide forward and bolt to the flex plate

Thank you that pretty much answers all my questions. My 87 is floor shift. So none of that swap sounds too bad. I also learned the torque converter the hard way. I was testing my second tranny in the 87 when I rolled it.

rangerenthiusiast · Mar 9, 2018

adsm08 said:
Install an air conditioner in your trans and it will be OK.

They have a few specific issues that make a lot of people not trust them.

The one governor can get stuck, which causes it to miss the 1-2 shift, or to shift really high. A revised governor with a heavier weight fixes that.

The vacuum modulator can rupture causing late or missed shifts and getting trans fluid into the intake, similar to a failed fuel pressure regulator and excess gas.

The main pump seal actually has the ability to pop out of place if the trans is overheated causing it to puke rather prodigious amounts of ATF onto the ground, and then once the engine is shut down and the trans cools off it can pop back in by itself. It confuses a lot of people who don't know that and then tow a heavy trailer up a long grade.

If you add a large aux cooler after the rad you will probably never have an issue.

Really those are the big ones. I don't trust the A4LD for one reason and one reason alone. I don't trust any automatic transmission.

I can tear down and M5OD in an afternoon, taking my time, quit at 4, start back to it at 9, and have her ready to go in by lunch, unless I forget the 5th gear retaining ball or the syncro keepers don't want to stay in place. I have yet to get an auto back together correctly on the first try.

Oh... dear... God... :shok:

Ron15423 · Mar 10, 2018

rangerenthiusiast said:
Oh... dear... God...

?

rangerenthiusiast · Mar 10, 2018

Ron15423 said:
?

Got scairt. :shok:

alwaysFlOoReD · Mar 10, 2018

Maybe I missed it it one of the above posts; IIRC there is a bearing in the end of the crank that comes out when going from manual to auto. Of course things may have changed since because I've never changed from manual to auto in a Ranger, just late 60's cars.

Easiest way to get the bearing out is to find a bolt that just fits into the bearing. Remove bolt, pack bearing full of grease and then tap the bolt back in with a hammer. As the bolt goes in, the bearing comes out....it's magic...no, really.

RonD · Mar 11, 2018

That would be the Pilot Bearing, yes, it would need to be removed if using a torque converter instead of clutch, and it is removed and replaced, or should be, when you put a new clutch in a manual trans vehicle.

Yes, many DIYers hate automatics, simple reason is they are not as easy to DIY as a manual trans.
Manual vehicles have a know failure looming, period.
Like brakes on the vehicle, you KNOW you will have to change the clutch disc like the brake pads/shoes then they wear down.

Changing the clutch in a manual is not "easy" but mechanically it is not that hard, pretty straight forward skill set most DIYers would already have if attempting their first clutch change.

Automatics also have clutches, more than one, and Bands(brakes), more than one, so they WILL wear out just like other clutches and brakes do.
And automatics are also high pressure hydraulic systems, they need up to 175psi+ to operate properly.
And they can be DIY fixed if you learn the skill set, most decide manual trans skill set is easier, lol, it is, so have someone else do the clutch and band replacement.

Automatics are stronger than manual transmissions, you know that from legal towing weight, automatics have a higher legal towing weight in any vehicle, no that has NOTHING to do with driver skill, popular MYTH, an automatic is just stronger.

I prefer manuals but have no issues with automatics

wildbill23c · Mar 11, 2018

adsm08 said:
Install an air conditioner in your trans and it will be OK.

They have a few specific issues that make a lot of people not trust them.

The one governor can get stuck, which causes it to miss the 1-2 shift, or to shift really high. A revised governor with a heavier weight fixes that.

The vacuum modulator can rupture causing late or missed shifts and getting trans fluid into the intake, similar to a failed fuel pressure regulator and excess gas.

The main pump seal actually has the ability to pop out of place if the trans is overheated causing it to puke rather prodigious amounts of ATF onto the ground, and then once the engine is shut down and the trans cools off it can pop back in by itself. It confuses a lot of people who don't know that and then tow a heavy trailer up a long grade.

If you add a large aux cooler after the rad you will probably never have an issue.

Really those are the big ones. I don't trust the A4LD for one reason and one reason alone. I don't trust any automatic transmission.

I can tear down and M5OD in an afternoon, taking my time, quit at 4, start back to it at 9, and have her ready to go in by lunch, unless I forget the 5th gear retaining ball or the syncro keepers don't want to stay in place. I have yet to get an auto back together correctly on the first try.

The A4LD in my 93 Ranger failed in the driveway the 2nd time after being rebuilt. Truck went to the scrap yard after that. At least it failed at home HAHA!!! Was pulling back into the driveway after coming from around the back of the property, and heard a loud pop, went to accelerate and nothing, no forward or reverse again. Not sure what it is that fails when it does that but its not cheap and takes out the whole transmission...wasn't about to go through another $2k+ for another rebuild, that rebuild only lasted 13k and truck wasn't even loaded when it happened. The A4LD in my 88 Bronco 2 had no overdrive when I got it, had AAMCO rebuild it and supposedly they upgraded a lot of stuff in it that were weak points, then had them add an external tranny cooler. Its been 19 months now and haven't had any issues, but would I trust it towing anything, nope, don't even trust it that much moving the Bronco 2 around on its own LOL. I wish I would have waited and got another Bronco 2 with a manual tranny. The previous owner was towing the Bronco 2 behind their motorhome, and guessing since the hubs were engaged when I got it, that he didn't disengage them and didn't do the transfer case in neutral and tranny in park thing or I assume that's the procedure on them to tow them, the owner's manual says they can be flat towed, didn't think you would with the automatic, even with manual t-case and manual hubs?

alwaysFlOoReD · Mar 11, 2018

Manual t-case in neutral disconnects the drivetrain from the transmission. If you're on a hill it will roll away even in park.

Swap to a4ld transmission

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