sas new direction

QuakerShaker4242 · Mar 9, 2008

so ive really been thinking lately and ive made some decisions on my sas plans.

first of all i plan on selling my dana 44 from a 91 wagoneer.why?
1.because for the tire that i want to run i just dont think that it is wide enough.it is the same as my stock width now
2. i want my bolt patterns to match

so i was considering my options and i know that there is many and thats what i was hoping to get some help with. i dont want to go to full width becasue i just dont like how it looks with the tires sticking out so far.

so what i was wondering was are there any axles that are wider than stock, yet not as wide as full width?? maybe from an explorer, or a bronco?

i was thinking on running a dana 44 up front and a 8.8.... maybe a 9" in the back?

thanks!

-cody

alaskan155 · Mar 9, 2008

the waggy axle is the closest, then the early bronco 44(hard to find) and then the dana 30 xj, other than that the rest are full width unless u make it yourself.
maybe some yotota axle could be another option, but i duno(havent looked into it)(out of a land cruiser, or hilux pickup)

AKBroncoII · Mar 9, 2008

That waggy axle should be around 2-2.5"s wider than your stock axle. About the closest you will get to non fullwidth but wider.

QuakerShaker4242 · Mar 9, 2008

alaskan155 said:
the waggy axle is the closest, then the early bronco 44(hard to find) and then the dana 30 xj, other than that the rest are full width unless u make it yourself.
maybe some yotota axle could be another option, but i duno(havent looked into it)(out of a land cruiser, or hilux pickup)

so... i take that back. ive been browsing around the SAS writeup section on explorerforums.com and full width isnt really that bad :icon_thumby:

AKBroncoII said:
That waggy axle should be around 2-2.5"s wider than your stock axle. About the closest you will get to non fullwidth but wider.

yea i had planned on using wheel spacers in the rear but i still didnt like the idea

QuakerShaker4242 · Mar 9, 2008

here is a good plan if you ask me...

full width dana 44/ ford 9" from a 1978 ford f-150

how does that sound?

AKBroncoII · Mar 9, 2008

Sounds good, 74-77 would be better though. :stirthepot:

QuakerShaker4242 · Mar 9, 2008

AKBroncoII said:
Sounds good, 74-77 would be better though.

oh yea?? what makes that better?

AKBroncoII · Mar 9, 2008

You can remove the wedges and move them in. Even earlier than 74, but they are drum braked. Can be converted very easily though.

QuakerShaker4242 · Mar 9, 2008

AKBroncoII said:
You can remove the wedges and move them in. Even earlier than 74, but they are drum braked. Can be converted very easily though.

alright sounds good. bolt pattern 5x5.5. disk brake. was the front suspension setup coil or leaf?

oh and does anyone know how much a front and rear axle would cost??

AKBroncoII · Mar 9, 2008

It's always about how good you are at bargaining and the going price in your area. Also, what you are willing to spend.

wahlstrom1 · Mar 9, 2008

I bought a 74' F150 d44 (radius arm and welded wedges) for $150, and just spent $200 on a full EB frame, with drivetrain and D44, without the rear 9".

-andrew

madmax401 · Mar 9, 2008

relocating the wddges

AKBroncoII said:
You can remove the wedges and move them in. Even earlier than 74, but they are drum braked. Can be converted very easily though.

on my 88 ranger
i have a 71-77 f150 style d44 with the wedges. how far inward can i move those wedges? does anyone have some exact measurements for that? i only ask because i dont have a welder .....my trucks in the driveway and everything has to be sent out to a welder (kinda hard to do as the welder will make everything permanent based on a ruff estimate ). looks like i can only move in my passenger side about 2 inches max without relocating the track bar mount. should i cut the track bar mount of and reweld after the wedges are properly located? that makes more sense. and when i do re-weld the wedges back on.....will i be changing the angle of the radius arms? measurements links and other write ups would be helpfull to us first timers. :icon_pepsi:

zainyD] · Mar 10, 2008

I moved my wedges in 1.5" on either side and my coils sit perfectly. I would consider removing the track bar bracket and fabricating another so that you can ensure that your drag link and trackbar are on the same plane.

zainyD] · Mar 10, 2008

QuakerShaker, read and learn. Sounds like you still have a lot of research to do.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44.htm

AKBroncoII · Mar 10, 2008

Shoot for around 36"s center to center on the wedges. Your springs should be very close at that point. You will probably have to move your track bar mount.

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