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Clutch release shaft issue. How can I remove it?


Jokertand

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On my 84 Ranger v6 2.8l 4x4 I have a problem on the shaft that the throw out bearring rides on. I had another mechanic install a new Fenco clutch kit and a just after I started it the clutch felt like it had gone bad again. I dissasembled it again and found that he had installed the throw out bearing backward. I then got another kit and installed it myself and it only worked 2 days before the bearing locked up on the shaft and the fork blew through in the center. After this I discovered that the master cyl was bad. Upon replacing it and getting a 3rd kit installed, it lasted only 2 days again. I then realized that the shaft had been damaged and the clutch was power slipping. I need to know how to get just the release shaft off of the tranny. It has a 5 speed manual transmission. I was told by schucks that they were replaceable on most transmissions, only I can't see any bolts holding it in place or anything. Is it just a locking clip or something? Anyhow I have gotten a 4th kit and am stuck trying to figure this out. Unfortunatly the chiltons is not offering anny help in that matter so please, if anyone knows or has any suggestions other than replacing the entire tranny, let me know asap so I can get it back on the road. Thanks to anybody offering helpfull info. It is greatly appreciated.
 


Jorley

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I'm going to assume you have a TK5 tranny since that's the only 5 spd for the '84.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/ManualTransmission.html

The shaft that the throwout bearing rides on is part of the front bearing retainer. Here's a exploded veiw from the Tech Library. It's part #1.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/toyo83_87.pdf

You have to take the bellhousing off to get at the bolts that hold it on. To get the bellhousing off, remove the 4 nuts on the inside. Once it is off there are 4 bolt that hold the bearing retainer on, plus the studs for the bellhousing nuts need to be removed.

They don't make the TK5 any more, so the part may be hard to find and/or expensive. Your best bet may be to get one from a junkyard and keep the other for parts. If you have to go that route use the first link above to ID it and make sure you get the right one.

I've got one taken apart and can get pics if you need them.
 

Jokertand

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well I am not sure if it is tk5, but it probly is. I can tell you that it has an external slave that attaches on the driver side of the transmission. Thanks alot for the info though. I will have to get to dissasembling it tommorow though since it is late. Hopefully it isn't snowing tommorow like it did today here since I have no shop to work in. Anyhow I apreciate you taking the time to assist me with the info.

wish me luck.
 

Jorley

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No sweat about the help. The original bellhousing on mine had the external slave. Good luck and let us know what you find out. We're here to help.
 

Jokertand

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Oh, by the way. Do I need a stud puller tool to get the bellhousing stud off or is there a simpler way of removing them?

Thanks again for the help.
 

Jorley

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If I remember right, there is a space below the thread part that you can use a pair of pliers or vice grips to grab and turn them. They are threaded at both ends and screw into the the case to help hold the bearing retainer on. There is a flange type thing in the middle of them. Just put them back in like they came out. I can check tomorrow and let you know.
 

Jokertand

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Ok that sounds pretty simple. Thanks again. If you come across anything else you think will assist in the job please let me know. I'll be sure to check the posts tomorrow before I get started in case you do find something.

Well its nice to know that someone knows what I have been dealing with because I was lost trying to rely on the Chiltons. It doesn't even go into how the bellhousing is connected.
Thanks.
 

Jorley

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I have a Chiltons manual for mine also. It's pretty good. but like you said it doesn't go a whole lot into detail. The wiring diagrams with the wire colors are pretty helpful tho.

Unless you have to pass emissions tests in your state, you might want to check out converting the ignition to duraspark. It gets rid of the emissions crap and the computer. I did mine about 2 weeks ago and am very happy with how the engine is now running. It idles and runs better and the throttle response seems alot better,too.
 

Jokertand

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So did you switch to a different tranny on your 2.8? I was just wondering because I think that I might just be better off switching to a transmission that I can actually find parts for and I read that the transmissions in the 2.8, 2.9, and 4.0 v6's are interchangeable. Do you know if ithis is true, and if so do you know whitch one I would be better off with getting? See, when I backed the tranny off of the engine I was able to leave it on the crossmember and just back it up to the gas tank which gave me more than enough room to just do a clutch kit, but if I am to remove the bellhousin then I will need to drop the tranny all the way out, and I figure that if I am already removing it already I might as well change the whole thing to a tranny that I can actually find parts for and avoid the risk of there being any other damage to to the one I have causing a problem if there is any. I know a place that I can go to get a traansmission for $50.50 so I think it might be a better idea to do so. Well I will be checking this site regularly for your reply.
Thx again.
 

Jorley

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No, I was able to find a TK5. The 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0 all have the same tranny mounting bolt pattern, but the different trannys are different lengths. I think the FM -145 is the same length as the TK5, but is a weaker tranny. The FM -146 is about 2.5 inches longer and I think the M5od is longer also. From what I have read in the forums here the M5od is the strongest, then the TK5 and lastly the FM-145 and FM -146 being the weakest. In using one of the other trannys(except the FM - 145) you would have to change driveshsfts, both front and rear due to the different length.
Almost forgot. You would have to move the tranny crossmember also.
 
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Jokertand

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Do you know if the drive shafts from the 4.o and 2.9 are compatible to install in place of the 2.8's originals? I can get those shafts if nessicary. Also I don't see it being to difficult to move the crossmember if it means I will have a stronger tranny. And do you know if the speedo cable would need changed as well? And lstly do I need to change my transfer case with the tranny, or is it also compatible to interchange?
 

Jorley

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It's not the engine size, but the tranny size that matters. If you are getting the tranny from a donor truck, you should get the driveshafts also.
The speedo cable goes into the t-case, so a different tranny shouldn't matter.
Here's a link to the Tech Library about t-cases.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TransferCases.html
The 1350 manual and electric bolt patterns are the same. I'm not sure if the 1350 and the 1354 are the same or not. You most likely have the 1350 manual shift, so you would want to use a manual if you have to change it. That way no wiring. Again, use the donor vehicle t-case if in doubt.
I hope this helps.
 

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Waitaminit.... The studs in question are the ones holding the bellhousing on?

Nothing fancy to get them out. Take two nuts and tighten them together on the stud. Then use the upper one to unbolt it.
 

Jokertand

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Yes it is the manual shift. Do either of you guys know exactly what the length difference in the two trannys is. Well actually if you just know how far back the crossmember will need to be placed from the original spot with the M5Od-R1 in place of the TK5? Also is there any modifycations that will need to be made to the hydrolic system of the clutch, or can I just attach the line directly to the new transmission? Will there need to be any wiring mods done in order to make the swap as well? Thanks guys.
 

Jokertand

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Oh and the transfer case is w/o front yoke.
 

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