91 Ranger Xlt 4.0 5spd ..Wont start normally

I come before you today Ranger Gods to ask for help figuring out how to fix my truck. My problem is my ignition cylinder moves freely without a key, I have a new one but I'm not sure where to even start. To start it I have to leave it in neutral which is normal for a manual vehicle but I also have to turn the ignition to the on position and start it with a screw driver under the hood with the starter solenoid I believe it's called. Normally I wouldn't care since I'm using it to save to fix my main Daily but since it is manual and I'm only human it would be a pain to have to leave it in gear, throw blocks behind the wheels, hope back in throw it into neutral again, pop the hood, and start it with the screw driver, grab the block throw them in the bed and run back inside, in the event that I stall out. I'm also going to be using it for delivery so in the event that I stall out who knows where it would be, it can be dangerous along with being tedious. I drove 2hrs to buy the truck found out it needed more work than the seller mentioned but bought it anyways due to it being only 700 and a sub amp that I had no use for and being desperate for wheels. I would have the shop do it and I may still but I'm trying to save as much money as possible because after parking it for a week I tried to move it and the clutch was done for, which was weird because It shifted very smooth on the 2hr ride home, and I never stalled, grinded, nor missed a gear. I have a new clutch waiting to be put on. Sorry about the long read thanks in advance. Any youtube links, advice/tips are apperciated. It's a 91 Ranger Xlt 4.0 5spd.

I would look at the ignition switch (not the same as the lock cylinder) first. Take the column trim off, and look for a red/blue wire coming out of the switch (big long 2-rowed plug) and test that for voltage when turned to start. You don't need to hold the clutch down for that test BTW. If you get power out of it the switch is good.

Then I'd check the clutch switch, basically the same test.

Then I'd look for power at the starter relay, the small single wire going to it, when trying to start from the key.

If you get power the whole way out your starter relay is shot.

Thanks for the advice. I took off the A/C compressor and hoses, and the pulley to put on a shorter belt to attempt to squeeze a little more power and maybe a little more mpg, I know it wont do much but even something slightly noticeable is ok with me and the belt was only $30 so I figured why not. I also did performance plugs & wires, a stock k&n filter, a performance k&n fuel filter, performance k&n oil filter, I used engine flush, and put in Lucas oil and fresh oil in, I put new battery terminals on as well all on the 23rd. Today I pulled the steering wheel to get the lock out but found out you can only do it with the key, mine turns freely and normally and there was no key when I bought it. I would start it with the solenoid under the hood so I will be drilling it out when its warmer this Sunday or Monday. I have a thrush welded muffler its 2.5 input and output, and I have a tip that is 2.5 input and 4in output. I want to have a shop redo the exhaust header back and take off any cat(s), muffler and anything else that is apart of it and either dump it to the side before the rear axle or have it out the back. If I do this will I loose or gain any hp or torque? I ordered a cold air intake off amazon but sent it back due to it not having a spot for sensor plug ins. Unless I can find something cheap that will actually work I probably wont bother anymore, from what I can find besides a good proper tune up, a true cold air intake, and proper exhaust upgrades there isn't much you can do to the 4.0s for a reasonable price. I probably wont get a chip upgrade either I'm pretty sure they are 300-500 and for that I can get a T3 turbo kit off ebay. There is always turbos and superchargers but for the price I'd rather have a shop regear the rear end, and maybe freshen up some suspension parts.

First... They're called paragraphs. They make it easier to follow the story. (Not trying to be a dick, just saying you'll get more answers if it's easier to read.)

Second... if you can turn the lock cylinder to the run position, there is no need to drill anything. Turn it to run, push in the retaining pin, remove the ign cylinder.

Mount a push button in the cab, then run a wire from the battery to the button, and then from the button to the solenoid. Hide it in the cigarette lighter if you want.