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Running a F/S T-case with a small block Ford swap.


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When I started my V8 swap project, I was sure that I didn't want to use the single ratio, full time AWD transfer case that come stock in the AWD version of the 5.0L Explorer. I wanted to have a manually shifted, 2-speed, part time 4WD transfer case like the one that came as factory equipment in my Ranger.

An easy (but expensive) way would have been to get a $500+ kit from Advance Adapters to mate the 4R70W Explorer transmission to the stock Ranger case. The kit consists of a new extension housing and an adapter shaft that steps down from the 4R70W's 31 spline output shaft to match the smaller Ranger T/C input spline.

For my purposes, it seemed like a better idea to substitute a larger transfer case designed for the torque of a V8. Thanks to the guys on ExplorerForum who developed the BW4406 swap into their 5.0L Explorers :thumbsup: , I felt that I had the info I needed to use the larger T-case in my Ranger. So, I picked up a low miles manual Borg Warner 4406 case from a 2003 F150 4.2/4.6.

The 4406 bolts directly to the stock AWD Explorer 4R70W extension housing without modification but that's where the easy part ends. Swapping it into a Ranger adds a new dimension to the clearance issues.

First of all, near the transfer case, a Ranger frame is several inches narrower than a Gen2 Explorer frame. Add to that the fact that the 4406 transfer case is huge compared to either the stock Ranger 2-speed case or the stock Explorer AWD case. It is nearly twice as long front to back and the main body sits about 4 inches rearward of where the main body of the Ranger case was. It is also much wider and would be positioned about 1/4" from the DS frame rail if the stock 5.0L Ex mounts were used. Even worse, the forward U-joint of the rear driveshaft would end up being about a foot farther rearward as compared to the stock Ranger, putting it adjacent and very close to the nose of the fuel tank.

The solution to both clearance problems was to move the entire engine/transmission/transfer case 3/8" toward the passenger side. This was accomplished by welding up the engine plate holes and trans crossmember holes and repositioning them.

These photos show the results of using the modified mounts. There is still not a lot of room but imagine how it would be using the stock mounting position - 3/8" closer!


Transfer case to frame rail clearance:



Slip yoke flange to fuel tank clearance:



This is the modified 97~03 F150 shift linkage mounted to the Explorer transmission extension housing. To get some extra clearance, I reversed and rewelded a pin in the linkage and cut almost 3/4" off the factory mounting bosses on the extension housing. Then I drilled the holes deeper and retapped the 14mm threaded holes for 5/8" x 1 1/4" NC bolts. This mod improved the clearance from the F150 T-case linkage to the smaller Ranger transmission tunnel. Combined with the 3/8" powertrain offset, the shortened bosses move the linkage and lever significantly inward on the transmission tunnel, keeping it from intruding any more than necessary into the driver's legroom.



Here is the 03 F150 silicone inner boot that has been reshaped to fit the Ranger tunnel. The stock Level II shift arm was too short by itself, so I made up an intermediate extension shaft from a piece of 3/4" drill rod.



F150 interior trim boot.


The shifter moved all the way rearward to the 4x4 Low position.


Center console from a junked 97 Mountaineer. It has been repainted satin black to match the rest of the interior. I repaired the broken console lid, then recovered it with black Naugahyde to match the newly painted console.




The lower driver side of the console was heated and reshaped to clear the shifter boot and bezel.


Shortened Ranger rear shaft and factory 97~03 F150 front shaft:


The internal factory Ranger slip yoke was cut off and a new fixed yoke welded in by a driveshaft specialist company. Then a 2006 Expedition/Navigator slip yoke was added before the assembly was balanced. The genuine Ford yoke is the right size for the F150 BW4406 transfer case and it was only $19 brand new on eBay.


A conversion U-joint is used to match the F150 front driveshaft to the stock pinion flange on the D35 front diff.


This conversion works great. The 4406 fits well, shifts well and has the strength to handle the torque of my blown small block. Even the stock Ranger 4x4 dash indicator lights work after wiring them to the switch on the 4406.

Everything combined - the shift linkage, conversion u-joint, slip yoke, j/y 4406 transfer case, j/y F150 front shaft and shortening of the Ranger rear shaft cost less then the AA conversion parts would have.

More info HERE.



Alternatives:

I chose the BW4406 because it is readily available, not too expensive and there are still some low mileage examples out there. Of course, there are many other F/S t-cases that can be used with a V8 swap. Ford, GM and Chrysler cases often use the same 6-bolt pattern to the transmission.

The main cases of the Borg-Warner 4407 T/C look to be about the same size as the 4406 but the 4407 has a fixed yoke output instead of the large rear slip yoke housing that my 4406 has. This might help in RBV's with shorter wheelbases or tank clearance issues. From what I've been able to find out, the 4407 was used on F250-up and junkyard 4407s are generally harder to find and more expensive than the 4406s.

There are smaller F/S cases that might make installation easier. A few possibilities are the NP205, NP208 and Dana 20. Since some are from earlier trucks, they might be a little harder to find and may be more likely to need a rebuild.
 
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nice thread!!
 

77'cj7

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I am in the middle of this conversion, and have a few things to add.

First, the 1345 and 1356 cases will NOT fit in a ranger, they are over an inch and a half wider on the drivers side than the 4406. I was planning on using a FSB case (1356) to get a flange instead of slip yoke on the rear output, but had to give up.

Second, the 4406 case will fit without shifting the drivetrain. Frame clearance is tight, but enough so the case will never touch it.

The slip yoke is too close to the fuel tank cover for comfort though. I am getting my drive shaft shortened tomorrow, and will work on this issue once I get it back.

Chris
 

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I am in the middle of this conversion, and have a few things to add.

First, the 1345 and 1356 cases will NOT fit in a ranger, they are over an inch and a half wider on the drivers side than the 4406. I was planning on using a FSB case (1356) to get a flange instead of slip yoke on the rear output, but had to give up.

Second, the 4406 case will fit without shifting the drivetrain. Frame clearance is tight, but enough so the case will never touch it.

The slip yoke is too close to the fuel tank cover for comfort though. I am getting my drive shaft shortened tomorrow, and will work on this issue once I get it back.

Chris


all fullsize pickup t cases fit in the ranger. sure, you have to make them fit...but they fit. i would use a jeep case with a fixed yoke though before any of these slip yoke types.


i love to hear how shit dont fit:shok:....
 

TRX501RYAN

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Great info here.. the 4406 looks like a viable option for my swap, where are the best donor vehicles to find theses in? and do they use the same elctronic shift motors on the rangers? I currently have E-shift. and this wont be a pure off road vehicle, so the simpler i can keep it, the better, IMO


Finally will theses bolt easily to the M5R2 trans from a 95 f-150 im assuiming yes, but i like to make sure!:icon_welder:


Thanks


Ry
 

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Great info here.. the 4406 looks like a viable option for my swap, where are the best donor vehicles to find theses in? and do they use the same elctronic shift motors on the rangers? I currently have E-shift. and this wont be a pure off road vehicle, so the simpler i can keep it, the better, IMO


Finally will theses bolt easily to the M5R2 trans from a 95 f-150 im assuiming yes, but i like to make sure!:icon_welder:


Thanks


Ry
The Ranger 1354 electronic controls and the 4406 F150/Expedition controls operate differently. I can't say that it couldn't be done but don't expect it to be anything close to plug and play. For 4406 donors, check into late 90's early 2000's.

Personally, I wouldn't own any Ford with an electronic transfer case, on road or off. A shifter is dead reliable and the electric cases are often anything but.

The 4406 will bolt to the 96-back M5R2 but that transmisson's shifter is several inches too far forward in a Ranger. Using an M5R2 from a 97~2003 4.2L V6 F150 4x4 puts it in just the right place and is the better choice, IMO. The 4406 bolts right up.

Regular cab Rangers will have major clearance issues with the 4406 which is gigantic compared to the 1354. Supercabs only have minor issues with the manual 4406. Not sure if the E-version of the 4406 causes any more trouble in the S/C.
 

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The Ranger 1354 electronic controls and the 4406 F150/Expedition controls operate differently. I can't say that it couldn't be done but don't expect it to be anything close to plug and play. For 4406 donors, check into late 90's early 2000's.

Personally, I wouldn't own any Ford with an electronic transfer case, on road or off. A shifter is dead reliable and the electric cases are often anything but.

The 4406 will bolt to the 96-back M5R2 but that transmisson's shifter is several inches too far forward in a Ranger. Using an M5R2 from a 97~2003 4.2L V6 F150 4x4 puts it in just the right place and is the better choice, IMO. The 4406 bolts right up.

Regular cab Rangers will have major clearance issues with the 4406 which is gigantic compared to the 1354. Supercabs only have minor issues with the manual 4406. Not sure if the E-version of the 4406 causes any more trouble in the S/C.
Good info. But I'm starting to second guess the Mazda trans... Starting to think about an AOD. Been reading about a lot of failures in the mazda M5R2 transmissions, and that's not something i want to really want to take the chance of dealing with. The only ratings i can find for the M5R2 is for around 250ft lbs. I'm sure my motor will well surpass that in the TQ Department, at least I would hope so. I'm really thinking an AOD 4x4 trans as of now might be a more viable option, should have a better chance of holding up to the motor. Its something I'm gonna have to think about.

I was just looking on the local u pull wrecker site, 160 out the door for an AOD, and there is near a dozen early 90's f-150 auto's there. In that selection I should be to find a 4x4 candidate. As well there is also a few 4406 candidates as there some late 90s and an early 2000 model or 2 to scout out.


Still have to spring to meet my personal deadline for the project.




Thanks again for sharing your findings.
 

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The only ratings i can find for the M5R2 is for around 250ft lbs.
I'd recheck that number. The smaller M5ODR1-HD used behind the 4.0 SOHC is rated around 250.

In the 90's, Ford used the R2 in the 150's and some F250's with the 302 and about 290 lb-ft, so it's rated higher than that. True, the R2 (and the R1) have failures but it is often due to 1 or more of the 3 rubber plugs coming out of the shift cover and causing a fluid loss. It's important to replace those plugs with something more substantial before using either trans.

I'm more concerned about the stupid internal slave cylinder that has plagued the R1 and R2, and even the gas ZF, for years.
 

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I'll recheck the #'s im just trying to debate what the best trans will be, as i am currently auto as it is now, so stick will be more work from the get go to install. How do the Aod's Fair ? and compared to the M5R2?


Trying to figure this out before i make a purchase.
 

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What engine and PCM are you planning to run?
 

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A9L and stang harness is what i currently have, 347 Stroker, with Windsor Sr heads, not sure if that ecm will run an Aod i'm gonna have to look into what it takes to run an AOD, as far as i know the Aod is a stand alone or does it require some type of input? beyond the throttle control valve?
 

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The AOD is primarily a conventional hydraulically controlled transmission plus the addition of a torque converter clutch and overdrive. The AODE and AODEW (aka 4R70W) use full computer control, either through a factory PCM that supports the trans in question or through a standalone aftermarket controller.

I'm not familiar with the PCM that you're using so I don't know which would be compatible.

Take a look at this site for tons of info on the various Ford transmissions, electronic controllers and mechanical upgrades:

http://www.becontrols.com/tech/ch2aodefund.htm
 

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Well Thanks for the link, i will have to read it later as I'm short on time. Last night i looked into this a bit.

First off the only input this trans needs beyond being mated to a motor with the proper attire. I.E: The proper flexplate, torque converter scatter shield, ETC. Is a throttle valve cable. I found numerous articles on how to adjust this, and seems to be a fairly easy process, just requires an extra set of hands/feet.

Next up there are 2 mustang computers available for MAF engines. The A9L, wich i currently posses, with the harness. Wich is originally from the manual Cars. And the A9P, with harness, Made for Auto's and has a little more timing and spark advance i believe, would have to double check exactly but the timing and spark advance is slightly different over the L ecm.

The biggest difference(Problem) I have found in the mustang side of things, is when swapped from an auto to man and vice versa. Circuits have been fried. I forgot the detailed lingo here, i will be researching it more. But the big problem routes in the end to the Starter relay circuit or clutch cirquit. In that area. The 2 computers uses a different style circuit, voltage, signal, to decide weather the vehicle is safe to start. And can fry a harness or ECM quickly if not addressed. There is ways to resolve this and wire it properly. I'm gonna have to research this further to decide weather or not the A9L ecm will work, or if i need to sell the harness and ecm i have and find an A9P ecm and harness, and possibly make this easier from the get go.


Finally i also found out last night, The strongest aod is the ones found in the 92-93 F series pickups. They contain the 2'' rather then 1.5'' OD Strap and a better synchro similar to what are used in rebuild kits for better reliability.


I'm gonna keep reading into this and learning, but if the 4406 will mate easily, i think i will be seeking a 92-93 Aod for my application.
 

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Thanks for the info Ted, i only briefly touched this topic, and i myself will have to read into this further, Im not sure if i would be better off selling my A9L ecm and harness, and just pick up the auto Harness and ecm right off the bat. I could care less wich i run, so long as my SCT Tuner is capable of inputing what i need, the Base ECM as far as wich is better stock will be null in my case. As it will be custom Tuned when done.
 

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