Manual Trans on '97 Ranger stuck ... literally!

GMitchell · Apr 26, 2014

I'm new here and this is my first post. I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and slave cylinder on my 1997 Ranger (250,000 + miles). Trans wouldn't disengage while engine is running, although I bled the master and slave cylinders. I thought there might be something wrong with the clutch plate, so I decided to drop the trans. again. All bolts and connections are loose but I can't pull or force the trans away from the block for anything. Any ideas? ANY help would be appreciated! :icon_confused:

burn0ut · Apr 27, 2014

did you remove the gearshift? starter? unbolt driveshaft? crossmember? if you did then you will probably have to just play around with your jack location, and wiggle her around a bit

RonD · Apr 27, 2014

Reads like pilot bearing is seized up, which caused your initial problem, input shaft kept spinning even with clutch pedal in.

Just have to keep wiggling bell housing as much as you can to get input shaft out of pilot bearing.

Pilot bearing is in the center of the flywheel, it support the transmission's input shaft on that end, this bearing allows the flywheel to keep turning(engine RPMs) but allows the input shaft to stop spinning, like when truck is stop, so you can put trans in 1st or reverse.
If this bearing goes out input shaft can't spin free, it is getting torque from flywheel, this also heats it up and it can be hard to get flywheel and input shaft apart............which is where you are now, it will come apart, just takes a bit of wiggle and pry

jamjoe45 · Apr 27, 2014

are you able to engage the trans at all while running? Check your pedal assembly. if the nylon bushing that holds where the pedal pivots is gone and the pivot rubs into the metal it will cause play that will cause issues.

GMitchell · Apr 28, 2014

I replaced the pilot bearing when I did the clutch kit. No, the drive shaft didn't disengage nor could I shift while the motor is running. All bolts, starter, trans support, and drive shaft removed but still no movement in the trans. It's just stuck, I suppose. I'm concerned that I may crack the block or the bell housing if I pry too much. I'm using a 16" flat bar and a rubber mallet and not getting anywhere. Any more ideas, or am I just being too 'gentle' with it?

Spott · Apr 28, 2014

I'd be chaining the engine to the front bumper, and pulling the transmission to the back bumper with a come-a-long, with plenty of persuasion from a large deadblow mallet. Maybe apply moderate heat as well, if you can get to the input shaft yet.

RonD · Apr 28, 2014

I would recheck all the trans bolt holes, top and bottom, I have been known to miss a bolt and swear I didn't, lol.

What engine is it?

Can you shift the block a bit when you move the transmission, so trans is free to slide back?
And jack up the back of the block a bit to get a good angle for trans to break free.

GMitchell · Apr 28, 2014

Ron, it's a 2.3........ and Spott, don't think I'm not tempted to try that.

I've double checked all the bolt holes including the two p.i.t.a ones at the top. The only thing I can think is the shaft is somehow stuck in the clutch plate or the pilot bearing.

GMitchell · Apr 28, 2014

I jacked up the back of the trans and lowered it as well trying to get it free. The trans will move up and down.... along with the block. It will wiggle side to side as well, but again, so does the block. If I had a porta-power, that might help a little, but I dunno. I'm afraid of doing serious damage to the pilot shaft or the bell housing

RonD · Apr 28, 2014

Well any damage would already be done, but I understand not wanting to add to it

Jack up block a little and let the weight of the trans help you while you move it back and forth.
The "line up" dowels can get stuck.

In the end it MUST come out so......................the time for flattery is over, looks like a clear cut case of self defense to me, yank 'er off

Andy D · Apr 28, 2014

If you havent unhooked the clutch ,etc yet. What happens when you pump the clutch pedal?

GMitchell · Apr 29, 2014

The clutch is disconnected, but before, It initially would go to the floor with almost no resistance. I bled and bled the master cylinder until I got resistance and slave cylinder movement in the bell housing. I had good pedal and all but the clutch still wouldn't disengage when the motor was running keeping me from shifting gears. It shifted great when the motor was off.............................

burn0ut · Apr 30, 2014

id do like ol buddy a few posts back said, throw a strap around the tranny and hook a come along to the back axle.
i had to do this to mine the last time to get it out, wasnt so much stuck but my little ass couldnt boss it around to get it slid back, as for the hammer bit i wouldnt go around smacking a aluminum tranny case with anything but im poor and cant affo.rd to replace broken shit,

GMitchell · May 1, 2014

I can't afford to replace it, either. I'm gonna try and get it loose this evening. If I can't, tomorrow is going to be come along time. Then I WILL try and pull it off that way. I just hope I don't break anything else doing that. Suggestions?

RonD · May 1, 2014

Well if you could use a strap around the trans and get some tension on it, i.e. use a come along.
Then start taping around bellhousing to block mating to get dowels and hopefully whatever else is holding it to break free, add a little more tension and try again, it might better than a straight "just pull it off" method.
Block of wood and hammer work great for this.

I would make sure YOU or anything else is not in the way in case it does let go suddenly

But in any case if it breaks it had to be done and if it doesn't break then good for you

Manual Trans on '97 Ranger stuck ... literally!

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