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TFI module delete


purplepeopleeater

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Hello everyone, I m curious about the possibility of deleting the TFI module, and upgrading to a whole new ignition system. Just to kinda take to inevitable failure of the part out of the equation. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you


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adsm08

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I have played with the notion of going EDIS on a 2.9. I am not sure if the 2.9's computer would communicate correctly with the EDIS module instead of a TFI though, and I don't have a 2.9 to test the idea on.

The relocation has been proven very effective at severely reducing heat-related failures.
 

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I have played with the notion of going EDIS on a 2.9. I am not sure if the 2.9's computer would communicate correctly with the EDIS module instead of a TFI though, and I don't have a 2.9 to test the idea on.

The relocation has been proven very effective at severely reducing heat-related failures.
Couldnt a 4.0 EDIS/CPU be adapted to run a 2.9?
 

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TFI and EDIS-6 do use different computer software, the pulse(PIP) and SPOUT(return) are different
And TFI system computers used MAP instead of MAF sensors.

Good read here on Ford's electronic spark systems: http://www.fordforumsonline.com/threads/identifying-and-understanding-ford-ignition-systems.3764/

So it would be an uphill battle
You could use 4.0l computer(1990-1994), switch over to MAF sensor(use 4.0l engine wiring harness) and EDIS-6, you would have to adapt tone wheel and Crank sensor for 2.9l's crank pulley, not sure if 4.0l pulley will fit 2.9l crank.

So probably doable.

But I think remote mounting TFI module would be better direction and less costly.
Only thing wrong with the TFI system was the module being mounted at the back of the engine on the distributor, so it would get heat soaked, especially after warm engine was shut off, and electronics do not like HEAT.

Good article on how to remote mount it here: http://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/ignition-charging-computers/remote-mounted-tfi-ignition-module/
 

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Thank you for all of the info, I actually had remote mounted my TFI already. But out here in Arizona with the outside air already being so hot, and the addition of the under hood heat from the engine, it still stays a concern for me. I was hoping that a ignition system conversion would be a simple task. But from the sounds of it. I’d be better keeping a spare TFI and of it does fail, at least I won’t be stuck.

Thank you again for all of the info


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You could try adding a computer hardware style of aluminum heat sink to the TFI to see if that helps.

 

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Thank you for all of the info, I actually had remote mounted my TFI already. But out here in Arizona with the outside air already being so hot, and the addition of the under hood heat from the engine, it still stays a concern for me. I was hoping that a ignition system conversion would be a simple task. But from the sounds of it. I’d be better keeping a spare TFI and of it does fail, at least I won’t be stuck.

Thank you again for all of the info


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And TFI has failed again after remote mounting?
 

purplepeopleeater

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Sorry, should have been more clear. No it’s good still. My truck will sputter and loose power after an hour or so of driving, but I think my fuel pump is over heating. I can shut it off and back in seconds later and get another 5 mins of driving. More of I top off the tank. But the TFI I believe is good


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RonD

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I would change the coil just on speculation

I would think you would need to be down to 1/8 of a tank, under a 1/4 for sure, for failing fuel pump to act that way.
And 2.9l would run 30psi fuel pressure, so engine should stall instantly if fuel pump is off, no sputter.
You can pull fuel pump fuse while idling or even REVing the engine a bit, just to see what happens, see if that duplicates what you experience.

What year is the 2.9l Ranger?
 

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You could try adding a computer hardware style of aluminum heat sink to the TFI to see if that helps.

My 97 460 is set in one of those factory. Believe my 96 300 was to.
 

purplepeopleeater

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I would change the coil just on speculation

I would think you would need to be down to 1/8 of a tank, under a 1/4 for sure, for failing fuel pump to act that way.
And 2.9l would run 30psi fuel pressure, so engine should stall instantly if fuel pump is off, no sputter.
You can pull fuel pump fuse while idling or even REVing the engine a bit, just to see what happens, see if that duplicates what you experience.

What year is the 2.9l Ranger?


Thank you Ron, the coil is about a year old, but it was a cheapie, so I’ll replace it. My truck is an 87. I have tried pulling codes, but just get the all is good 11 code. I was kinda thinking it may be pump related because I did the single in tank pump swap from a 92 2.9 ranger, and when I turn the key to listen for it, I do hear it, along with a rattling sound, kinda like marbles in Tupperware. I need to get a fuel pressure gauge to check pressure. I’ll also give the fuse trick a shot. Thank you again for the help.
It’s very appreciated, I’m down to the point of considering selling the truck, and I really rather not.


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.
And 2.9l would run 30psi fuel pressure, so engine should stall instantly if fuel pump is off, no sputter.
If we are dealing with an 88 or earlier not necessarily. I've had my 87 running, barely, on 12 PSI. My in-tank pump is screwy.
 

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having read the relocation article, i think this is what i should do.
BUT....the article talks about making a 3 wire harness for the prongs that go up into the distributer. it does not address the problem of the 6 pin connecter at the other end of the ignition module
if i put the module in a heat sink and mount it to the radiator support, then add the 3 wire extended harness, the connector that plugs into the side of the dist is going to be 3 feet away from the module.
how did you solve this part of the relocation?
 

RonD

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having read the relocation article, i think this is what i should do.
BUT....the article talks about making a 3 wire harness for the prongs that go up into the distributer. it does not address the problem of the 6 pin connecter at the other end of the ignition module
if i put the module in a heat sink and mount it to the radiator support, then add the 3 wire extended harness, the connector that plugs into the side of the dist is going to be 3 feet away from the module.
how did you solve this part of the relocation?
It's there but just a sentence or two:
"Next, go to the junkyard and cut a couple of feet of TFI wiring harness and salvage the foil wrap that Ford uses. Strip the insulation off a length of 10-12ga wire and interweave it among the foil, leaving it unattached towards the TFI end and grounding the other end to a suitable ground point. The foil insulates the wire from any interference."

But TFI vehicles are probably getting pretty scarce, lol

You can also buy 9 conductor 18gauge wire, or 3 conductor and 6 conductor
Most auto parts stores sell "trailer wiring" that is multi-conductor
 

Dav

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okay, i misunderstood that part. i thought the foil was all that the wire was aquired for.
friday after work (my early day) i will hit the u pick near work this will put me in the commute from sarasota to tampa but the nearer u picks dont have suitable doners
 

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