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Old 12-05-2017, 02:05 PM   #51
vwjohnboy
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Ok im putting a 93 3.0 in a,2000
When i install the cam sensor do i set it at75* which the book says is for 96-97 or do i set it at 38* which is for 98-2008? The 93 had a distibutor, and im swapping it out with a cam sensor. I guess my question is did the cam change somewher in there? Why the difference,and which one do i use?
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Old 02-22-2018, 05:19 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikki View Post
I keep getting a camshaft sensor code, but i'm not hearing any squeak or anything. And it only seems to happen when i start her on really cold mornings, you think the synchronizer can still be the problem? or is it more electrical?
Hi Nicky,, on those real cold mornings, does it start and stall off and on?
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Old 04-16-2018, 06:20 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksmith1 View Post
I have a bit of a dilemma. the tech library here shows the plug positioned towards the back of the engine at 75 degs from center. the hanynes manual shows it positioned towards the front of the engine at 75 degs from center. is there a mark on the block or head I can aim at to get the proper 75 degs? as I don't have a protractor and can't seem to locate my speed square ATM. If there isn't a mark there ought to be....
Thanks for any help here.
I have a 3.0L '96 and I replaced the camshaft position sensor and the synchronizer this weekend using the shop manual procedure for a '95. Those instructions have you put the engine at 10 degrees after TDC (ATDC) and point the tool at 30 degrees off of the engine centerline looking backward. The diagram in the tech library shop manual does not match the text. Every shop manual I ever bough for my fords was full of typos and I quit buying them for that reason.

Anyhow, the 10 degrees ATDC and 30 degrees off of the engine center line looking backward worked for me. The check engine light went off immediately and hasn't come back. The truck runs fine. Measured gas mileage coming in to work this morning - 37 miles of freeway was 23+ mpg. There are timing marks on the crank shaft pulley. The center bolt on mine was 13/16. The gear teeth are 10 degrees apart. You can see the timing make from below with a flashlight and a mechanics mirror.

If you're using the plastic tool you can take the fasteners out of the old sensor and use them to fasten down the tool temporarily. That way it won't slip off. If you don't fasten down the tool it slips off easily.

I used a little dosing syringe I had left over from having a cold to inject some engine oil in the lube hole and then spun the shaft around. Then I lubed up the worm gear and the o-ring.

These comments are for a 1996 ford ranger with a 3.0L V6. Other years and other engines are maybe different. What I've posted worked for me. Oh yeah, it was a real pain to accomplish- took me the better part of a day - I'm not a mechanic.
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:29 PM   #54
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OK... Just did my 97 aerostar,3.0 Would you believe that I bumped the starter, and it landed perfect for the alignment tool to sit in place, removed it and the teeth were a little worn,(176K miles) The reason for replacing was the top bushing was really worn, and after reading all the horror stories about stripped gears, ruined engines, etc I decided to change it out. Much easier on an Aerostar, 20 minutes. As for where the plug should be pointed, I don't think it makes a difference as long as the plug/wire is not in a strain.

Bill
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Old 06-26-2018, 10:07 AM   #55
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Swapped heads on my 2000 3.0 Here is a pic of the engine at top dead center and how the synchronizer should look installed correctly:




Last edited by Fordblue213; 07-01-2018 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 07-03-2018, 07:49 PM   #56
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Hey Ya'll, don't ignore the squeek on startup, let my Daughter in law use the 96 ranger 3.0, heard a squeak that sounded like an idler pulley, went away after about 2-5 secs. pulled the synchronizer and the drive gear was almost ready to strip out.145K miles....whew
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