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Help with 1992 2.3 Transmission


HoustonRanger

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I cannot for the life of me get this thing back inside the truck. I have two transmission jacks but those are not too useful when there is a metal bar that blocks it from being able to get it close enough without manual labor.

I am bruised up trying to get it to move closed but once it is in the clutch hole it won't ever get closer.

I test fit the clutch and the splines line up so not sure why it won't go in. I may just not be strong enough to get it up in myself so may need to hire a mobile mechanic or get it towed to get put in. This is the last part of my truck being basically ready to drive and I am stuck.

Any tips or Houston guys that can help get this in or can assist for some cash?

Jason
 


adsm08

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If you can still reach the shifter stub put it in 4th gear and rock the output shaft if you think the clutch splines aren't engaging the disc.

If you are getting the slave all the way to the pressure plate and getting stuck there then you are splined, but everything is extended too far. I always get stuck there for a day or so until I remember to crack the bleeder a bit. Things usually go together easy after that.
 

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First of all, sorry I'm not close enough to come help.

We hat metal bar is in your way? Can it be removed? Really, if you're close bought to start engaging the splines, you're really close to getting it in. It's all about getting the angles right - up & down and side to side. I just got mine back in yesterday. I did have help. But I did not have a transmission jack. I just strapped it on top of a big floor jack. Once it's up in the tunnel, it can't roll off to the side, so I loosened the straps so I could Rock it around. It's definitely a pain. You have to jack it up, roll it forward. Then crawl around to check alignment and position. Then crawl back and adjust the jack. Repeat, repeat, repeat. I originally tried doing mine without removing the cover on the floorpan. That didn't work. The shifter stub was hitting that plate and I couldn't get the transmission high enough. The whole process is just a puzzle. A very frustrating puzzle. ( For us amateurs)

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Sorry I forgot to edit out the autocorrect mistakes up above. Anyhow, one more thought.

It might be wise to back up and makes sure the alignment tool still fits properly, to make sure you haven't bumped the friction disc out of alignment.

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pjtoledo

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get a couple bolts that match the bell housing bolts, but longer. cut heads off & use them as guides. I ground flats on the end to grab them for easier removal.
tilt the engine down a bit.
 

HoustonRanger

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So would the slave be preventing it from going in all the way? I did get one that was pre- bled so I haven't touched it yet other than installing it.

I was thinking I could have the alignment of the clutch off so I removed and reset the pressure plate and clutch twice now. The alignment tool doesn't come out really easy I have to move it back and forth to get out but the clutch when I tested it on the spline was a pretty tight fit too.

I was reading about those bolts to make for the top but the top is harder to get on then the bottom since I have no room to reach up there to push it or hang it. The only thing I have been able to do is use a ratchet strap to keep the tail end straight or fairly straight.

I've left it right now and pretty sure the slave was touching the fingers of the pressure plate so I hope that it is in the hole, but when I move it around just goes back and forth and doesn't go in any further.

I may need to get another alignment tool and remove it and make sure the tool is going all the way into the pilot bearing maybe I am getting stuck there.
 

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those bolts to make for the top
The bolts with the heads cut off don't go in the top holes. Put them in easily accessible lower holes of the block.
 

telsar

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In my experience, you have to lift the transmission higher than it appears. Raise the rear higher and make sure the shaft is high enough. Get it high and wiggle it.
 

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95% of the time I get to "that spot" where you're at right now and it adds an incredible amount of frustration to the job. Wiggle and push. You are probably fighting the spring on the slave cylinder/throwout bearing or possibly could have moved the clutch disc with the input shaft. I've done that.

My favorite trick is a 2x4 through both windows and a ratchet strap hooked onto it and wrapped down around the transmission through the shifter hole. Tighten just enough to hold the rear of the trans up and more or less at the right angle. Then you can be right underneath it and really work it without jacks in the way.
 

HoustonRanger

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Any advice on what bolts to use for studs? I can't match the 13mm to the M size at home Depot
 

pjtoledo

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metric bolts are described by shaft diameter x thread pitch x length of shaft in mm's
thread pitch is the distance between threads.
a typical bell housing bolt would be similar to:

10 x 1.5 x 75
or 12 x 1.75 x 75
the studs I use on Vulcan 3.0 are 12 x 1.75 x 100
 

HoustonRanger

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I've given up at this point it won't go back in no matter what I try. Gonna sell it I think it's too much hassle
 

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