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Misc Electrical & Gauges Post your speedometer, gauges, interior and non audio/video questions here.

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Old 09-30-2007, 02:33 PM   #1
TWH
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Default Goes up to 25 mph, no faster

I have an 89 Ranger, 2wd, auto, A4LD. Been sitting idle for several years and I just can't seem to make it stay running. I got a reader and it coded out with a code 53 "throttle positioning sensor above max voltage," and a code 89 "AXOD Lock-Up Solenoid (LUS) circuit failure or Clutch Converter Override (CCO) failure." I noticed that the front bumper was bent, so I made sure the fuel cutoff (kill switch) was reset. I can get it up to 14 mph, runs great, shifts into 2nd and starts to surge. Keeps on surging till I let off the gas just a little bit and then runs great up to 25 mph. Starts to surge again and then won't go over 25 mph. On 2 separate test drives the surging just went away for no apparent reason, ran great. Stopped, started, took off fast, took off slow. It did great, but as soon as I put it back in park and drove it the next time the surging started all over again. It idles fine, BTW.

Partial list of new parts: Fuel pump, alternator, fuel filter, tank has been flushed out, ignition switch, steering column switch (slider), throttle positioning sensor, but it has not been set by a computer.

Before I was given the vehicle, it sat on the tarmac at the airport with a blown tranny for about 2 years. Transmission has been replaced by another mechanic. Numerous mechanics could never get vehicle to stay running. They all worked out on the tarmac on the vehicle over a period of 3 years on and off, with no special tools that I could tell. They all threw in many parts (i.e. rebuilt computer, mass airflow, sensor, throttle position sensor, one coil pack, maybe more?) just trying to get it to run.

HELP!! What should I try next?
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Old 09-30-2007, 02:59 PM   #2
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Sounds like a real frustrating head-scratcher you've got there. Given the weirdness of the problem, the truck's history and all of hands that have been on it without resolution, have you checked all of the wiring harness grounds? The 1989 EVTM (wiring manual)would show all of them, but basically you're looking for loose or disconnected wires with ring terminals (usually, not always, black colored wires), which are screwed to body or chassis metal with a bolt. Check along the inner fender wells, in the kick panels (especially passenger side), the firewall and the radiator support. Also make sure that the battery has ground cables from its negative post to the engine, and body and/or frame. If for anything else, at the least this would get an ungrounded electrical system ruled out as the cause. Good luck with it, and welcome to TRS.
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Old 09-30-2007, 03:14 PM   #3
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That TPS fault indicates the TPS, at least, is not grounded. Grab a voltmeter and a circuit diagram and see where ground got lost. There will be a voltage drop there -- with no ground, all three TPS leads will be at 5V.

That may not be all of the grounding problems, but it MAY lead you to something important. So, I'd trace that down first, fix it, and then reevaluate.
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Old 10-01-2007, 04:32 AM   #4
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if the TPS sensor was bad, wouldnt it have smiler symptoms in park (once the throttle reaches a certain spot, hesitation, stalling, what-have-you)?

i have to wonder if the tranny is the root of the problems.
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Old 10-01-2007, 10:05 AM   #5
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I don't see any indication here of a bad TPS. I do see indication that the TPS is not properly grounded, perhaps intermittently.
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1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles.

1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:46 PM   #6
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I have been driving the truck around alot, it has messed up a few times. It seems the more I drive it, the better it shifts, so far anyway. Still have a ck engine light and the idle is not all that steady. When I am test driving and come to a stop and it is still in drive, it will run for a few min, then black smoke comes out the tail pipe and it dies. The TPS is new, and has not been set by a shop's computer. I have heard that it must be set that way. Is this true? I did a voltage test on the TPS; first wire on the left is 4.49, next is 4.99, last one is .032. THX for all your help!

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Old 10-01-2007, 03:53 PM   #7
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Do you have any idea where I could find this ground?
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Old 10-01-2007, 04:04 PM   #8
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IF you had your "common" connected to anything not on the TPS (engine block ground, negative battery terminal, whatever), then that TPS is ungrounded internally. I don't care if it's new; those are not correct readings. Especially if the throttle is closed.

Though to be honest, I'm really scratching my head as to how the signal can be higher than power.
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1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage.

1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles.

1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2.
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Old 10-01-2007, 04:22 PM   #9
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TWH- first of all, is there a thick cable between your battery (-) post and the engine?
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Old 10-01-2007, 05:29 PM   #10
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Higher then normal TPs voltage is caused by 1) a disconected sensor 2) An "open" in the suply wire, as in the 5V suply wire is damaged and 3) An open ground. Think of it thisway, your ECM is full of voltmeters, each meter is watching the suply voltage, and then the signal voltage, it then compares the two and makes a decision. If there is no path for the 5v referince signal to take,there will be no voltage drop, which then flags a active falt code. So, bottom line, new TPS or not, the tps and the tps circuit is where your looking. Disconect the tps, conect your Volt meter to the suply wire and the volt meter ground to the battery negative termanal. Get a buddy to mess around with the harness and watch the meter, if nothing happens, then conect the negative lead of the meter to the TPS ground wire, mess with the harness again and watch what happens. IF nothing happens with the meters ground lead is conected to the battery but the Voltage changes when its conected to the TPS ground, then thats a sign of a poor tps ground. If the voltage changes when the meters ground wire is attached then its a sign of the tps 5v suply wire is the suspect. This this, then report your finding. Also note that a "scan tool" doesnt help ya out most of the time. The DMM is your best friend when tracking electrical problems.
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