Conversion kit from spade connector to eylet connector?

bodkin1 · Feb 22, 2008

I put a new starter on my truck a few months ago and in the box there was a paper along with the installation instructions, it said that the starter was originally equipped with a spade type connector on the starter solenoid, and it was discovered this type of connector was not very well protected from the elements, therefore leading to a bad ground or even premature starter failure. It then noted Ford was aware of this problem, and produced a conversion kit which switched it over from the spade-type connector to an eylet/post type connector. However, I have not had any luck whatsoever finding this "conversion kit". i looked everywhere, the dealer, and numerous auto parts stores, to no avail. The only way the dealer would be able to find it is if it had a part number.

Here's that paper that lists it all:

shadetree · Feb 22, 2008

Try this:

F4VY14A411A

shady

bodkin1 · Feb 22, 2008

thanks, I might go back there tomorrow and see if they can find it.

MAKG · Feb 22, 2008

When I replaced the starter on my Exploder, I got that notice AND a "conversion kit" right there in the box. I suspect someone took yours....

The kit is an eyelet connector, wire, and weatherproof crimp connector. I would suggest soldering it on instead, and then covering it with heat-shrink. I really don't like crimp connectors.

np24 · Feb 22, 2008

or you could just cut your connector off.
get a ring terminal from the autoparts store that fits the starter.
crimp the ring terminal where the old spade connector was.
problem solved, for like $3

MAKG · Feb 23, 2008

Make sure the connection is weatherproof, or you'll eventually get a no-start.

bodkin1 · Feb 23, 2008

np24 said:
or you could just cut your connector off.
get a ring terminal from the autoparts store that fits the starter.
crimp the ring terminal where the old spade connector was.
problem solved, for like $3

I have considered going that route, I can get eyelet connectors out the wazoo at work.

shadetree · Feb 23, 2008

MAKG said:
The kit is an eyelet connector, wire, and weatherproof crimp connector. I would suggest soldering it on instead, and then covering it with heat-shrink. I really don't like crimp connectors.

Soldering wires and connectors in vehicles is not really recommended. When soldered, the wire becomes solid and will break much easier from vibration and movement than stranded wire. That is why you do not see solid wire used in an automobile, it is all stranded, and also why the connectors are crimped. A properly crimped connector is stronger than the wire.

Using the correct crimping device is a must, as is knowing how to make the crimp. A pair of pliers is not a crimper, it simply flattens the connecion. The cheap flat type crimpers are not that good either.

Chevrolet tried using solid aluminum wire in the 70's. I pulled some out of a trunk not long ago. I think it lasted for a year or so, then they went back to stranded. Poor idea. shady

MAKG · Feb 24, 2008

Shady, aluminum fatigues. That's why no one makes solid-wire aluminum wire anymore. It's also an active metal; it corrodes -- and causes corrosion elsewhere -- when it gets in electrical contact with many other metals, especially copper.

Solder is quite flexible. If yours aren't, they aren't done correctly (perhaps, "cold", or maybe just the usual problem -- just too much solder). Electrical solder is also very resistant to corrosion.

And I hope you aren't under the impression that solder contains aluminum. It doesn't.

Aluminum was experimented with for automotive and domestic wiring in the 70s because of one interesting property -- it's one of very few metals whose oxides are electrically conductive. But electrical conductivity isn't the only requirement for wires, and even that doesn't work when the aluminum makes all the copper parts corrode (and you can't get rid of ALL of them).

It also isn't true that "all connectors are crimped." Counterexamples from my own Exploder are the diode across the A/C compressor clutch, the 4-way IDM junction inside the engine harness, and the cross-connections inside the front doors for the power windows.

shadetree · Feb 24, 2008

MAKG said:
Shady, aluminum fatigues. That's why no one makes solid-wire aluminum wire anymore. It's also an active metal; it corrodes -- and causes corrosion elsewhere -- when it gets in electrical contact with many other metals, especially copper.

Solder is quite flexible. If yours aren't, they aren't done correctly (perhaps, "cold", or maybe just the usual problem -- just too much solder). Electrical solder is also very resistant to corrosion.

And I hope you aren't under the impression that solder contains aluminum. It doesn't.

Aluminum was experimented with for automotive and domestic wiring in the 70s because of one interesting property -- it's one of very few metals whose oxides are electrically conductive. But electrical conductivity isn't the only requirement for wires, and even that doesn't work when the aluminum makes all the copper parts corrode (and you can't get rid of ALL of them).

It also isn't true that "all connectors are crimped." Counterexamples from my own Exploder are the diode across the A/C compressor clutch, the 4-way IDM junction inside the engine harness, and the cross-connections inside the front doors for the power windows.

Soldered stranded wire is not flexible. Solder in raw form is very flexable, but once a junction is made it will crack when bent. I have been soldering for many years, I made my living at it, so I know a little about how to solder. As a whole, vehicle wiring is not soldered.

I used the Chevy example because it was one case where a solid conductor was used in an automobile, and it didn't prove feasable nor was I looking for a class on aluminum properties. Copper solid wire breaks easily when bent, ask any telephone repairman. Solder simply isn't used on any scale in automobiles. shady

High Desert Ranger · Feb 25, 2008

shadetree said:
Soldered stranded wire is not flexible. Solder in raw form is very flexable, but once a junction is made it will crack when bent. I have been soldering for many years, I made my living at it, so I know a little about how to solder. As a whole, vehicle wiring is not soldered.

I used the Chevy example because it was solid wire, not because it was aluminum, but because its use was discontinued, nor was I looking for a class on aluminum properties. Copper solid wire breaks easily when bent, ask any telephone repairman. Solder simply isn't used on any scale in automobiles. shady

Most street to house wiring will be solid copper wiring on house, most inside house wiring to the jacks will be too. The connection from the jack to the telephone or device is stranded wire.

Stranded wire is used anywhere that flexibility is a must. Solid wire is used anywhere where there typically isn't any movement.

Properly soldered connections in an automobile are fine, because the remaining portion of stranded wire provides the flexibility required. (and I said properly soldered because if too much solder is applied it can wick up the connection.) The soldered connection should typically be less than 3/4".

shadetree · Feb 25, 2008

High Desert Ranger said:
Most street to house wiring will be solid copper wiring on house, most inside house wiring to the jacks will be too. The connection from the jack to the telephone or device is stranded wire.

Stranded wire is used anywhere that flexibility is a must. Solid wire is used anywhere where there typically isn't any movement.

Properly soldered connections in an automobile are fine, because the remaining portion of stranded wire provides the flexibility required. (and I said properly soldered because if too much solder is applied it can wick up the connection.) The soldered connection should typically be less than 3/4".

Soldering stranded wiring in a automobile is a second choice, not primary.

Stranded wiring wicks, you can't prevent it. Where it wicks, it also brings any contaminants that may be present.

Soldering is for making a solid connection, not for strength.

Where the stranded wire meets the soldered joint provides a breaking point.

Most do not know how to solder, so crimping is more reliable.

I do not use solder or insulated connectors. You get a better crimp with bare connectors then cover the connection with shrink wrap to cover and add strength to the connection. shady

Conversion kit from spade connector to eylet connector?

Member

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals