Thinking about swapping to EFI?

So I'm thinking about ditching my carb for EFI. I'd really just like to go with a stock Ford setup as they seem petty reliable. I'd prefer to go to OBD II too. Would it be best to just go with an Explorer 5.0 setup as I'm already running the explorer FEAD? No idea where to go from here or which is a good setup.

Thanks!

I been looking at the holley efi kit

http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/550-406/10002/-1

OBD1 A9P(automatic) or A9L(manual) ECU's are popular choices, they are from 5.0l Mustangs

With OBD1 you use a distributor, this takes the place of the crank sensor and cam sensor needed with OBD2 ECUs
Adding crank sensor requires some extra work

OBD2 runs distributorless so can be more reliable long term, one less adjustment, but it also requires downstream O2 sensor added and of course the crank sensor setup

Besides crank and cam sensors, either needs:
MAF sensor
O2 sensors(OBD1-2 O2s, OBD2- 3 O2s)
Air temp sensor
Engine temp sensor
Throttle position sensor
IAC Valve

EGR system as required locally

Swapping EFI upper and lower intake gets most sensors also fuel rail and injectors

MAF sensor 4 wire is just air flow, 6 wire has Air Temp builtin

The 96 F-150 would have had an OBDII distributor setup.

adsm08 said:

The 96 F-150 would have had an OBDII distributor setup.

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I had read about Ford carrying over distributors for a few years with the new OBDII(EEC-V) but never ran into it myself.
Not sure why they would do it, I guess it was cheaper to re-program new computers and use up the old distributors

The Holley setup is far too expensive in my opinion. Definitely not what I'm looking for.

If I were to get a donor what should I look for? ObdII isn't a must just thought it would make things easier. Truck intakes are too tall from what I've read/seen.

RonD said:

I had read about Ford carrying over distributors for a few years with the new OBDII(EEC-V) but never ran into it myself.
Not sure why they would do it, I guess it was cheaper to re-program new computers and use up the old distributors

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I've only seen a few vehicles with that setup. It's somewhat uncommon to run across anymore being a 1 year only thing that happened 21 years ago.

The tech school I went to had one like that though, that they kept around to make us spike the distributor. Prof would pull the dis, spin it and then crank the engine and we had to put the distributor back in and make it start.

It probably was done that way because it was cheaper than to re-wire and re-engineer the whole system just to do coil-packs for one year before re vamping the body and putting a whole new engine line up in them.

Hagan said:

The Holley setup is far too expensive in my opinion. Definitely not what I'm looking for.

If I were to get a donor what should I look for? ObdII isn't a must just thought it would make things easier. Truck intakes are too tall from what I've read/seen.

Click to expand...

You want a 1996/7 explorer V8 computer and wiring harness, will be OBDII and will NOT have PATS(passive anti-theft system)
PATS adds a layer of complications you don't need, Explorers got PATS in 1998

These computers will be for automatic trans(4R70W), so if you are using manual trans or AOD then you will want to have the automatic software deleted, or install 4R70W with its wiring harness
Without a connection to 4R70W the computer will turn on CEL(check engine light) which isn't all that bad, but it will also idle oddly and get poor MPG, and of course if there is another problem you won't know it because CEL is on all the time, lol, so have to check codes now and then to see if there is another problem.

Get upper/lower intake, complete, from 1996 to 1998 explorer V8, 1999 got returnless fuel system, so adds another layer of complications in computer choice

Need the crank pulley with tone wheel from similar years, probably timing chain cover as well, but you may be able to fabricate Crank sensor mount, it does need to be at a precise location for correct spark and injector timing.
It is like distributor timing, "kinda close" doesn't cut it, lol.

Drawing of crank sensor setup here: https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249084_1_2.jpg

Picture here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?attachments/strapit-jpg.59049/

Which also brings up pulley alignment, not sure how the new crank pulley will line up with accessory pulleys?

You could make your own tone wheel/crank sensor setup
There are lots of tone wheels out there that might be adapted for your use

Crank Tone wheel has 1 "tooth" every 10deg, so 360deg = 36 "teeth"
One "tooth" is removed, so only 35 "teeth"
That Gap(missing tooth) = TDC #1 piston
And thats how the engine is timed

There is an off-set you would have to look up, "gap" often passes crank sensor 10 or 20deg BTDC, like distributor timing

fi tech. look at that carefully. fair system.

good read
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1968-plymouth-valiant-fitech-reinvents-efi-how-they-do-it-better-and-cheaper/


using oem componentry you can be cost effective for sure.

obd 2 van or 150 maf systems are out there in 351 and 302 flavors...hard to find good stuff in michigan, i have been away from it for some years. the explorers are for sure plentiful.


i can do it for likely under 200 bux still if it were for myself....

depending on yard i can likely can pull it off for a 100 or so.


that would not be a top notch sweet looking job but get ya an efi setup.


unless there is a newer source for a9l, p, and m computers....your looking for trouble. the later obd2 at this time is a much better way to go.

Thanks guys! After I started the thread I got sick and have no cell service at work to reply back and to do more research.

I already have an Explorer front end accessory drive (timing chain forward) so that should make things a "little less complicated.

I do have 1 good question. Is the explorer obdII setup able to be tuned or is this something I need to take to a dealership? My brother is doing a gen IV LS swap in an old Blazer and he is able to tune it himself. He can do all sorts of stuff way beyond my head such as removing Chevy version of PATS. Sometimes I wonder why I didn't go with a Chevy engine.

Yes, there is software and hardware that will allow you to tune an EEC-V(Fords ODB2 computer)
Or you can send computer out to have it tuned.

Your brother's software won't work but company he got it from may also do Ford, so discounted pricing

Tweecer comes to mind

Google: ford eec v programming