80 Carb turbo ignition help- Duraspark troubleshooting

Ok this is a great site and has been helpful to me identifying some details on my engine, carb, and head (thank you!) during the process of the rebuild of my 1980 2.3 carb Turbo M81 McLaren Mustang. I don't have a Ranger but recent searches on my Duraspark setup led me back here again so I decided to join. If I'm in the wrong spot or you don't want me here please let me know!

Symptom- intermittent engine cutouts leaving me stranded

After a lengthy rebuild process on my top end (documented on the 2.3 section of FourEyedPride forum) I am having a recurring running condition problem while I try to get the car ready for CA Smog testing. The symptoms are after 24+ years off the road on my first drive I went 20 miles trouble free in 95degree weather then it stalled like it was running out of fuel (felt electrical as it was more like an off/off switch) while driving an even 35 miles an hour. Then on the side of the road cranked and cranked but no fire at all. Then after a few minutes and lots of pedaling I would get it to fire and it would drive a few hundred yards then the same thing. This happened several times but made it home. I strained the gas in the fuel tank, replaced the fuel filter and added an in-line filter. After a restart and drive attempt #2 the following day it died out 1/4 mile from home again with several restarts but could only go 50 yards before it would die again. It starts and idles just fine but will inconsistently just stall out even at idle. I suspect something in the ignition system as the fuel filter appears just over half full even after the stall and I was able to drive on/off the tow truck after a short cooldown. It seems to break up occasionally above 3,000 RPMS.

If it helps, 7 years ago I had the gas tank rebuilt, installed new seals, all new fuel lines, & the carb rebuilt in order to just get it started. Since that original restart I rebuilt the head and turbo this year to cure smoke issues that pulled it off the road originally back in 1991. Last week I put in 6 gallons of fresh fuel for the first drive where I found this issue.

Current setup (looks factory original to me although part numbers seem earlier?)
Duraspark Ignition Control Module- # D8AE 12A244 AB number on face of unit
Distributor # 0F806 E0ZE 12127 BA on tag attached (Single Vacuum inlet)
Coil # D5AE 12029-AB

My buddy is an experienced Pinto racer and has 2 that he SVO swapped who was with me when this occurred and he was a bit stumped and suspected the Duraspark system or the original fuel pump. He was told Duraspark is garbage and has typical problems. True? It looks like there are aftermarket replacement parts (ICM and Motorcraft, distributor, coil, etc.) but I'm not sure if there are nuances between years as some sites show the available LX215 and LX212 . Should I start with a distributor pickup, then try ICM, then distributor? Is this a lost cause?

Appreciate any insights that will help me get on the road!

It honestly sounds like the carb to me. Was the carb rebuilt 7 years ago? if so I would definitely open it up and check that everything is open and free. Do you have a spark tester? Best thing to do is check the spark when this comes up again to rule out carb issues.

jsd3 said:

It honestly sounds like the carb to me. Was the carb rebuilt 7 years ago? if so I would definitely open it up and check that everything is open and free. Do you have a spark tester? Best thing to do is check the spark when this comes up again to rule out carb issues.

Click to expand...

Yes carb was rebuilt by experienced shop in 2014. He said leave the adjustments screws as is. It fires up easily and idles fine except when it cuts out. That was 4 years ago so could be the carb yes.last cutout I tested and had spark.

yea if it were me, I'd pull the carb, disassemble, and run it and the parts through an ultrasonic cleaner. you can return the mixture screw back to the current settings, just count how many turns it takes to bottom out the screw and write down. I've had engines that had similar issues when there was debris in the carb. just a guess though and it cant hurt

I have to suspect the ignition module, actually, the pickup in the distributor. I had one years ago (Duraspark) that would intermittently just product no spark. I swapped modules to no avail, and checked for spark, and there was none.(Did you check for spark when it quits?)
I finally deduced that the windings in the pickup coil inside the distributor bowl were opening with temperature change. It didn't work when the circuit was broken.
Last time it failed I was loaded with groceries (and ice cream), and it wouldn't start for 10-15 minutes. I replaced the pickup and no more problem.
To me, a carburetor would not 'kill' an engine, but cause misfire before stopping completely. YMMV
tom

I'll throw a different thought in: jiggle the key while it's running. Your ignition switch may be bad. Ford used poorly-assembled switches in that era which are prone to coming apart causing the vehicle to randomly die.

Doesn't matter what you change or troubleshoot downstream if it isn't getting consistent power supply from the switch. It's also worth seeing how much voltage is actually coming back out of the switch because they tend to develop high resistance as they age which is also not helpful to anything.

Thanks for the suggestions. I suspected the distributor module as well and started disassembling in car. I did check spark and had it but because it doesn't fail completely it's hard to know for sure. Looks like the module had been taken apart previously. Went ahead and ordered a full reman distributor and a new ICM as this post from another forum seems to fit my situation as well. Will check ignition switch too.

"Fordtrucks.com forum post by NumberDummy , 02-07-2013 05:01 AM

The 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module.

1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost at once.

2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts in an hour or so.

3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.

Engine heat, especially radiating from the V8's red hot left exhaust manifold, is the mortal enemy of these modules.

Module installed on left fender inner apron. When replacing, use some washers to space it further away from the apron. The more airflow, the better.

The modules used in the 1970's were so unreliable, that Ford techs referred to them as NeverSpark!
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1974/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline: There were five different DuraSpark ignition modules.

One was 1974 only. One was 1975 only. One was only installed in some 1976/79 sold new in CA vehicles. One was the "high altitude" module installed in 1978/79 (and 1980).

Modules are identified by a colored plastic square above where the wires feed out.

1974 only: D4AZ-12A199-C .. Ignition ModuleBlack Plastic Square (Motorcraft DY-157-B).

All 1974 FoMoCo vehicles.
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1975 only: D5AZ-12A199-C .. Ignition ModuleGreen Plastic Square (Motorcraft DY-166-B).

All 1975 FoMoCo vehicles.
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1976/79: 1U2Z-12A199-AA (replaced D6AZ-12A199-A, D8VZ-12A199-A, D9VZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module Blue Plastic Square (Motorcraft DY-893).

This module was used well into the 1990's on myriad FoMoCo vehicles.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1976/79 CA only: D7AZ-12A199-A (replaced D6AZ-12A199-B) .. Ignition Module Red Plastic Square (Motorcraft DY-204).

This module was a total POS from day one!
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1978/79 High Altitude only: D9AZ-12A199-C(replaced D8AZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module-Yellow Plastic Square (Motorcraft DY-237-A).

D8AZ-12A199-A ~ Brown Plastic Square.
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Don't forget this little charmer, the same symptoms apply to it as they do to a failing ignition module.

D4PZ-12A112-A .. Stator aka Magnetic Pickup Coil (Motorcraft DU-1A).

All 1974/79 V8 Passenger Cars/Trucks/Bronco's/Econolines except 1979 LTD/Grand Marquis 351W with EEC”