Official A4LD Problem Thread!

Robert_1967 · Jan 16, 2013

kbkchooch said:
Been a while since I've been here, but here goes. My 88 XLT, 2.9 with A4ld was doing some strenuous work (pulling out a buddy) when suddenly there was a loud pop and I lost all forward motion. Reverse is ok That being said,
Will a C4 tranny fit?
I don't care about mileage (I drive locally, so gas mileage sucks anyway)
I don't was a manual shift (I stopped rowing boats years ago)
&
I dont want to rebuild a POS if there is a possibility of it happening again. I've had C4's in the past that didn't break, even after ridiculous punishment!
Help?

From what I have read, you will have to get a adapter plate to make any "C" trans fit, get a new drive shaft, and so forth.

Robert

posted with a iron fist and a box of gum.

blue83ranger · Jan 16, 2013

I put one in my '86 2.9 4x4 extended cab. It was mainly a C4 from a 1980 v8 thunderbird with the bell housing, torque converter, output shaft, tail housing, cross member both transmission and transfer case shifters from my '83 4x4 ranger's C5. I had to drill to get the cross member to line up. It's been awhile since i did it so i might forget a step but i had to shorten the front drive shaft and i just removed the stock drive shaft and mount, mainly because the drive shaft placed i called about lengthening it said it was to small of a diameter to lengthen how long i needed. I used the rear shaft from a late '70's f150 4x4 and had it shortened and put on the right ends so it would bolt up. I also had to piece together some shift linkage and cut down the arm coming out of the transfer case. Also made up a new short harness to hook up the neutral and backup switches so i didn't cut any of the main harness. And the 4x4 and cruise works as it did before.

kbkchooch · Jan 17, 2013

blue83ranger said:
I put one in my '86 2.9 4x4 extended cab. It was mainly a C4 from a 1980 v8 thunderbird with the bell housing, torque converter, output shaft, tail housing, cross member both transmission and transfer case shifters from my '83 4x4 ranger's C5. I had to drill to get the cross member to line up. It's been awhile since i did it so i might forget a step but i had to shorten the front drive shaft and i just removed the stock drive shaft and mount, mainly because the drive shaft placed i called about lengthening it said it was to small of a diameter to lengthen how long i needed. I used the rear shaft from a late '70's f150 4x4 and had it shortened and put on the right ends so it would bolt up. I also had to piece together some shift linkage and cut down the arm coming out of the transfer case. Also made up a new short harness to hook up the neutral and backup switches so i didn't cut any of the main harness. And the 4x4 and cruise works as it did before.

Wow, I'm gonna pass this info along to my buddy from way back in high school, along with the estimate I got for a "certified rebuilt" unit. ($2150.00 estimate :shok:

) He is now my truck mechanic, since my stroke, I cant pull a tranny on my chest anymore. Besides, he does motor and tranny swaps in Mustangs all day long, with an occasional F150 or Ranger. Let me see what he can do, then I'll go from there.
Thank you VERY much for the info! :bye:

We'll be back!

Robert_1967 · Jan 18, 2013

blue83ranger said:
I put one in my '86 2.9 4x4 extended cab. It was mainly a C4 from a 1980 v8 thunderbird with the bell housing, torque converter, output shaft, tail housing, cross member both transmission and transfer case shifters from my '83 4x4 ranger's C5. I had to drill to get the cross member to line up. It's been awhile since i did it so i might forget a step but i had to shorten the front drive shaft and i just removed the stock drive shaft and mount, mainly because the drive shaft placed i called about lengthening it said it was to small of a diameter to lengthen how long i needed. I used the rear shaft from a late '70's f150 4x4 and had it shortened and put on the right ends so it would bolt up. I also had to piece together some shift linkage and cut down the arm coming out of the transfer case. Also made up a new short harness to hook up the neutral and backup switches so i didn't cut any of the main harness. And the 4x4 and cruise works as it did before.

Well color me green, I didn't know a C4 would bolt up to a 2.9, if that's the case, then a C6 should also. this is truly wonderful news, I guess someone should update the Tech page to include this.

Robert

sent by a swift Griffin and to dimes.

Shran · Jan 20, 2013

Robert_1967 said:
Well color me green, I didn't know a C4 would bolt up to a 2.9, if that's the case, then a C6 should also. this is truly wonderful news, I guess someone should update the Tech page to include this.

Robert

sent by a swift Griffin and to dimes.

He said he used a C5 bellhousing and torque converter AKA factory RBV V6 parts

alwaysFlOoReD · Jan 20, 2013

C-4 and c-5 are removable bell-housings, the c-6 is not. AFAIK, there was never a c-6 with the right bolt pattern to fit the 2.8, 2.9, and 4.0.
Sorry,

Richard

Robert_1967 · Jan 20, 2013

alwaysFlOoReD said:
C-4 and c-5 are removable bell-housings, the c-6 is not. AFAIK, there was never a c-6 with the right bolt pattern to fit the 2.8, 2.9, and 4.0.
Sorry,

Richard

Well, that sucks, but still to me a c5 or c4 would be better then a a4od, you would just lose the overdrive.

Robert

sent with a man with a woman tattoo and a woman with a woman a tattoo :icon_confused:

kingman89 · Feb 14, 2013

Bought an '89 B2 with 148K that was sitting for 4 years because it needed a heater core, I guess. Got it running real good after flushing the fuel system, new filters, 6 new injectors, tune up, oil/coolant change, heater core, and other odds and ends. Basically a cake walk getting it going again. Tranny shifted smooth and concise... for the first week or so. The other day after getting off the highway, I took off from the stop light and it felt like it was in neutral for a second. When the revs hit about 1,500 it engaged drive and of course shocked the drive train with a clunk. 1-2 shifted perfect (always does), but 2-3 it flared before engaging. Engaged overdrive fine but I don't drive any automatic in OD in town. When it's cold it engages drive just fine and doesn't fall out of gear at a stop, flare on 2-3, or slip at all. When it's warm, after about 20 minutes of driving, it still engages reverse perfectly but hangs up when shifting to drive unless I touch the gas a little bit then thunk and it's in. If I don't touch the gas it'll hang for a bit then slowly hunker down and engage. 2-3 shift flares (about 500RPMs worth) before engaging but does not slip at all once it's in. Overdrive engages fine but I've noticed a periodic shudder. At a stop it will fall out of drive until I tap the gas a little. I checked the modulator and it's not leaking anything, fluid looks new and smells good, and doesn't leak a drop anywhere.

I'm going to replace the filter and fluid in a bit, but wondering if anyone has any ideas otherwise? I haven't seen another issue like mine and I've spent a long time researching these pieces of shit.

Long story short...

Cold:
Engages reverse, drive, and all other gears perfectly.

Hot, after being driven for 20 minutes:
Engages reverse fine
Hangs up when engaging drive
Have to touch the gas to engage drive
Falls out of drive at a stop
2-3 shift flare on upshift and downshift
No slipping otherwise
Engages/disengages overdrive fine but with periodic shuddering

Personally it sounds like it's time for a rebuild. Generally a problem when cold but not warm is a lack of flow. :dunno:

Robert_1967 · Feb 14, 2013

kingman89 said:
Bought an '89 B2 with 148K that was sitting for 4 years because it needed a heater core, I guess. Got it running real good after flushing the fuel system, new filters, 6 new injectors, tune up, oil/coolant change, heater core, and other odds and ends. Basically a cake walk getting it going again. Tranny shifted smooth and concise... for the first week or so. The other day after getting off the highway, I took off from the stop light and it felt like it was in neutral for a second. When the revs hit about 1,500 it engaged drive and of course shocked the drive train with a clunk. 1-2 shifted perfect (always does), but 2-3 it flared before engaging. Engaged overdrive fine but I don't drive any automatic in OD in town. When it's cold it engages drive just fine and doesn't fall out of gear at a stop, flare on 2-3, or slip at all. When it's warm, after about 20 minutes of driving, it still engages reverse perfectly but hangs up when shifting to drive unless I touch the gas a little bit then thunk and it's in. If I don't touch the gas it'll hang for a bit then slowly hunker down and engage. 2-3 shift flares (about 500RPMs worth) before engaging but does not slip at all once it's in. Overdrive engages fine but I've noticed a periodic shudder. At a stop it will fall out of drive until I tap the gas a little. I checked the modulator and it's not leaking anything, fluid looks new and smells good, and doesn't leak a drop anywhere.

I'm going to replace the filter and fluid in a bit, but wondering if anyone has any ideas otherwise? I haven't seen another issue like mine and I've spent a long time researching these pieces of shit.

Long story short...

Cold:
Engages reverse, drive, and all other gears perfectly.

Hot, after being driven for 20 minutes:
Engages reverse fine
Hangs up when engaging drive
Have to touch the gas to engage drive
Falls out of drive at a stop
2-3 shift flare on upshift and downshift
No slipping otherwise
Engages/disengages overdrive fine but with periodic shuddering

Personally it sounds like it's time for a rebuild. Generally a problem when cold but not warm is a lack of flow.

Try a can of Marven's Mystery oil, that might help, but after sitting for 4 years, things do tend to get stuck in the trans.

I'm using a trans right now that sit for a year in my garage, and it had a few stuck items, but after a while and a can of Mystery oil, that seem to help it some.

When this piece of carp goes out, I'm changing my 89 BII to a 5 speed, I have most of the items right now.

But any who, Good luck.

Robert

posted with a burnt finger and a glass of tea that was rooted.

kingman89 · Feb 15, 2013

I pulled a good 1/4 cup of clutch material off the magnet when I dropped the pan yesterday. Debris everywhere. This goes against by beliefs but I bought a bottle of Lucas transmission fix stuff, I figured what the hell it's failing already. Gonna give it a go and see if it helps the situation. If it lasts for another 6 months that's fine by me but in the mean time I have all my buddies asking around for a good auto to throw in it.

The fluid and filter change helped a bit, it doesn't seem to fall out of drive quite as much.

I'm definitely not going to have it rebuilt, not worth it on a $600 truck no matter how cherry it is.

broncobuckinaround · Mar 8, 2013

86 b2 auto a4ld and its shifting really late. 3500-4000 rpms.

checked vac modulator, hoses were bad. replacing them.

anything else i should look at.

WIP1994 · Apr 22, 2013

Does not shift from 1st and 2nd until I left off the gas and let RPMs drop...Rebuild time?

1994fordranger · Apr 23, 2013

a buddy of mine has a A4LD transmission that i am currently helping him pull, the fork in the transmission somehow got it stuck in 3rd according to a mechanic replacing transmission now with a m5od

Robert_1967 · Apr 23, 2013

1994fordranger said:
replacing transmission now with a m5od

That is the smartest thing you can do when a A4LD goes bad.

Robert

posted with a silver spoon, and a brass fork.

Answer069 · May 19, 2013

So how hard is it to swap to a M5OD? I have a slowly failing A4LD. Currently having huge issues with a Delayed reverse shift and an almost nonexistent OD shift. When I'm driving fast enough for it to shift into OD I have to use the gear selector and move it to N, let off the gas, then back into OD and I can pick up the gas and most of the time it will shift in. Sometimes not though.

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