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M5R2 with NP205


Logan95

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Ok so let’s start off by saying I’m new to the forums, I’ve known about this site for years just never joined until a few days ago. Out of 15 trucks I’ve had sense I was 15 this is my 6th ranger, second v8 build.

Anyways, I have a 94 extended cab 2wd waiting for the 302 to come back from the machine shop, as I am going 4wd I picked up a M5R2 from a 99 4.2l f150 with no transfer case (too good of a deal to pass up), I’ve looked for the 4406 none local to me and being married spending $1200 on a refurbished one is out of the question. I picked up a NP205 which I know bolts up to the trans, I was just wondering what else I should look for, mainly linkage wise and what not

Thank yall
 


85_Ranger4x4

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You have to notch the back of the trans for the t-case shift rail, and there is a boss that protruds towards the bottom you will have to clearance the bottom of the trans for that. And the seal retainer will hit inside the trans so you will need to make a 3/8" thick spacer for that to clear. I twin sticked my NP205 and made my own linkage.





Note the seal retainer hitting as I test fit with the shift rails:



Spacer I drew up and had a local fab shop cut with their laser table:



I had to trim the transmission case more for that boss sticking out of the t-case.



I made the support bracket from a chunk of angle iron, the bushings are from Bronco Graveyard, had to drill two holes for the bracket in the frame:



My linkage (I modified the shift rails for independent control) but you can maybe get a feel for how the stock linkage would might fit.



[url=https://flic.kr/p/PqnZgu]


My trans is a 2004, floor plate was a blank solid one from an automatic Explorer.

 
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Logan95

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You have to notch the back of the trans for the t-case shift rail, and there is a boss that protruds towards the bottom you will have to clearance the bottom of the trans for that. And the seal retainer will hit inside the trans so you will need to make a 3/8" thick spacer for that to clear. I twin sticked my NP205 and made my own linkage.





Note the seal retainer hitting as I test fit with the shift rails:



Spacer I drew up and had a local fab shop cut with their laser table:



I had to trim the transmission case more for that boss sticking out of the t-case.



I made the support bracket from a chunk of angle iron, the bushings are from Bronco Graveyard, had to drill two holes for the bracket in the frame:



My linkage (I modified the shift rails for independent control) but you can maybe get a feel for how the stock linkage would might fit.



[url=https://flic.kr/p/PqnZgu]


My trans is a 2004, floor plate was a blank solid one from an automatic Explorer.

How hard was the twin stick to install
 

85_Ranger4x4

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The mod for the t-case:

https://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176680

I modified two stock levers (one was from a divorced case) where I cut them off, redrilled the hole, angled them how I wanted and rewelded them back in place. For the linkage I used ball joints from a hardware store and generic 3/8" threaded rod cut to fit. For a couple hundred bucks you can buy a lever kit and you can even buy the shift rails if you don't want to modify yours.

Stock levers, that ain't gonna work. Kinda intruding on my personal space...





Cut the levers of, ground them smooth and did some fitting at the bottom so it didn't stick out so far and top so they don't bind on each other.



I angled them ahead using the factory bend in the shafts but spread enough to have room for the knobs.



I used a brass bushing on a generic bolt for the pivot, still using the factory plastic bushings inside the levers too.

 

Elutheros

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^^^^^ Yep, mine is pretty much like the above except I didn't go twin stick. Mine is from a 1994 F150 V8 so the shifter sits much farther forward but with my 3" body lift and flat engine mount plates it sits just shy of the dashboard. I took the gasket from the front of the transfer case to a guy with a plasma cutter and got the spacer made. Some people say it bolts right up without it but not on mine. I was able to use a stock one piece 4x4 driveshaft and had the front driveshaft shortened for about $75.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Forgot to add, I also have a 3" bodylift.
 

Logan95

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I’ll be running a 3” body lift also. With Dana 44 front 9” rear. The M5R2 was free, and is also good to go. I’m still searching for a manual shift 4406 but if I can’t find one for a decent price I’ll use the 205
 

85_Ranger4x4

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FWIW BW4406's don't have a speedometer drive.
 

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