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4R44E Transmission won't engage


ThatCatPuma

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I have a 98 Ranger with a 3.0L V6, with the 4R44E transmission. I recently installed a rebuilt engine and unplugged the transmission to do it. My problem is that the transmission won't engage when the shifter is moved to Reverse, Drive, Etc. positions. I believe that it is not a mechanical problem as the shifter is not hard to move. The plugs that I know of are plugged in (the two running down the drivers side of the housing to the transmission). Any help would be great. Thanks!

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RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)


Bummer.

Have you ever installed an automatic trans onto an engine before?

If this was your first then you made a common but EXPENSIVE mistake

When you pulled the engine out the torque converter probably came out attached to the engine, you shouldn't do it that way but usually won't hurt anything
You should unbolt the torque converter from the engine then unbolt the trans from the engine
But sometimes engines are seized, so there is no choice, but as said no damage should occur with that method

BUT........when engine goes back in then torque converter needs to be seated into the transmission FIRST. then you bolt engine and trans together and THEN you bolt torque converter to flexplate/engine

Failure to seat torque converter will cause damage to the Front pump in the trans, and then trans will not MOVE at all, complete tear down is required to replace that pump

Video on seating torque converter here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7klzEV0kng

All automatics are the same, not a Ford thing

I did it on my first automatic, almost 50 years ago now, so not a "new" thing either
 
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sheltonfilms

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I agree with Ron. This is probably the #1 error when replacing/installing an engine or transmission.

You have to make sure it clicks 3 times and the center pilot “nub” is recessed approximately 1/2” into the bellhousing.


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ThatCatPuma

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I see. I put the torque converter onto the engine first. That may be the problem. Do I need to take out the engine again, possibly?

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Dirtman

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You don't need to pull the engine again, but you need to pull the transmission and most likely get a new pump which requires a full tear down...

You never install a torque converter by attaching it to the engine first. Very costly mistake.
 

ThatCatPuma

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Fun. I guess I'm dead in the water until I do that. Then get a new pump... the book I was following wasn't very clear, evidently.

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RonD

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I did exactly the samething, only I was getting trans rebuilt
Removed bell housing bolts and pull trans back and down, torque converter stayed on the engine/flex plate, so I left it there.

Got rebuilt trans back and installed it, had to force trans to bolt flush to engine
Got it all hooked up and..............no go, no gear worked
I was PISSED..........at the transmission shop :)
They enlightened me, lol, and they were actually fair on cost and labor to replace the pump


It's one of those life lessons you'll never forget

You probably had to tighten the bell housing bolts to force engine and trans together that last inch or two, that was because the front pump tabs were not aligned with torque converter slots, and when they broke, trans slid right in, or engine did

For next time, the "slide right in" should always happen, never ever force a trans and engine together, something is wrong if they don't align and then go together flush

Only use a FORD replacement pump, 3rd party can fail within a year or two, and as you will see its a pain to change
 

sheltonfilms

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I also want to note that replacing the fluid pump is easy (if you have the right tool). Only problem is aligning the pump to the bellhousing. There are videos showing you how to align it using the TC but this isn’t right. There is a special pump alignment tool (I have one and they aren’t cheap). I “aligned” mine using the TC before and then tried inserting the alignment tool. It didn’t fit until the bolts were loosened and allowed the pump to shift. This tells me you can’t do it just using the old TC.


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ThatCatPuma

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I did exactly the samething, only I was getting trans rebuilt
Removed bell housing bolts and pull trans back and down, torque converter stayed on the engine/flex plate, so I left it there.

Got rebuilt trans back and installed it, had to force trans to bolt flush to engine
Got it all hooked up and..............no go, no gear worked
I was PISSED..........at the transmission shop :)
They enlightened me, lol, and they were actually fair on cost and labor to replace the pump


It's one of those life lessons you'll never forget

You probably had to tighten the bell housing bolts to force engine and trans together that last inch or two, that was because the front pump tabs were not aligned with torque converter slots, and when they broke, trans slid right in, or engine did

For next time, the "slide right in" should always happen, never ever force a trans and engine together, something is wrong if they don't align and then go together flush

Only use a FORD replacement pump, 3rd party can fail within a year or two, and as you will see its a pain to change
Went to the trans shop and was pretty pissed when I found out that it seems I broke the pump and bent something. Need trans rebuilt now. Oh well, shit happens! On the bright side I'll now have a truck with a rebuilt engine AND trans now. Hopefully will run forever now, or close to it.

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