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Fabrication Bumpers, sliders, cages, flatbeds, tube work, etc.

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Old 09-27-2018, 10:07 PM   #21
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If it helps, take the chrome end part off of the gun, it's just there to protect the tip on a flux core, completely unnecessary for function...

Yeah, I mostly just wing it, not really watching the puddle but it mostly works out. I'm used to stick welding though and have done more lately than I've done in a long time. If it helps, slow the wire speed to give yourself some time to think and get things going. Remember to concentrate on the bigger/thicker piece of metal, keep the wire there longer so you don't burn through. If you burn through, add wire speed or just stop and do a bunch of short welds to build up the hole and fill it in

Also, on that thin wall stuff, the low setting on the welder should be enough, with slow wire speed that will bring the heat up some and help the welds penetrate some and give yourself some time to see what is going on better.
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Old 09-27-2018, 10:16 PM   #22
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Do you have some 500 watt halogens? getting lots of light on the subject really helps.

Cheater lenses help.

I bought some glasses made specifically for welding. I'm nearsighted, I need bifocals. I got the optician to put the myopic section at the top of the lens, so I didn't have to tilt my head back to see up close. Since then I've invested in glasses for welding that have a focal point about 10-12 inches in front of my face.
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Old 09-28-2018, 07:31 AM   #23
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I put a tinted shields on the inside of my hood to make things darker. Its auto darkening too. I weld aluminum a lot and it burns a little brighter that steel. I forgot about the magnifying lenses you can put on the inside. I don't need those YET...
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Old 09-28-2018, 08:06 AM   #24
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Thank you everyone for the encouragement! I must say, this is a little bit easier then trying to learn stick welding about 12 years ago.
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Old 09-30-2018, 08:03 AM   #25
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Duh! the setting was set too dark, DNS think it's called. 9.5 seems about right.
got the non gas tip cover cone too.
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