Bleeder Screws?

Ranger850 · Oct 2, 2018

adsm08 said:
No, that's a line wrench. It has a slot to pass over the line, but is otherwise a 6 point box end.

A bleeder screw has no line going into it and so a bleeder wrench is fully closed.

It does have some hard angles on it to get in around corners.

Yeah well it's been a while and I got the vocabulary wrong. Thanks for clearing that up.

mikkelstuff · Oct 2, 2018

Be sure to inspect those rear steel brake line flares when you extract them from the brake cylinders.

I didn't catch it at first, but one of the flares chipped when I pulled them out of my 2002 Ranger. Then I wondered why I couldn't vacuum bleed these brakes. Whoa! Finally found it when another stomped on the brake pedal and fluid leaked around that joint.

Joeshark · Oct 2, 2018

mikkelstuff said:
Be sure to inspect those rear steel brake line flares when you extract them from the brake cylinders.

I didn't catch it at first, but one of the flares chipped when I pulled them out of my 2002 Ranger. Then I wondered why I couldn't vacuum bleed these brakes. Whoa! Finally found it when another stomped on the brake pedal and fluid leaked around that joint.

Thx @mikkelstuff
At the connection outlined in the photo?

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07nhbpsi · Oct 2, 2018

Joeshark said:
Thx @mikkelstuff
At the connection outlined in the photo?

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Yes, also u may wanna use some heat before backing them out.....in the past I’ve had problems and ended up twisting the damn brake line, so now I use pb blaster and some heat they come right out every time...icon_thumby:

Joeshark · Oct 2, 2018

07nhbpsi said:
Yes, also u may wanna use some heat before backing them out.....in the past I’ve had problems and ended up twisting the damn brake line, so now I use pb blaster and some heat they come right out every time...icon_thumby:

Ok will do, thanks!

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adsm08 · Oct 2, 2018

Also, make sure to rock those line nuts back and forth a few times before actually trying to remove them. Break them loose on the threads and then just rock the wrench back and forth, helps make sure things are moving and not going to twist off.

Little trick I picked up a few years back, if you have a line that is really truly stuck to the nut you can spin the wheel cylinder off of the line. It is less than ideal, but it does work.

Mr._Graybeard · Oct 6, 2018

I just got done working over the front brakes and master on my 2005 FX4. It needed a new MC, but when I wanted to bleed the calipers the bleeders just crumbled. I ended up getting new calipers, hoses, rotors, pads and dust shields ... at 120K miles it was due for some love. I'm left with a lingering ABS issue, but I'll start a new thread on that.

As for the rear cylinders, loosing that rear fitting on the hard line is a pain ... the angle is just funny and hard to get a grip on. I swapped out a cylinder myself and had to fabricate a new hard line because I messed it up. When the other cylinder started leaking in the depths of winter, I took it to the local Ford garage ... I felt a little vindicated when THEY had to replace the other hard line while servicing the cylinder.

Anyhow, I thought I'd point you guys to a really excellent tool for flare fittings, the Vise Grips 4LW. It's like a regular Vise Grip except that it has a triangular notch cut into the fixed jaw. That lets it clamp down on three sides of a fitting without tearing up the metal. It came to my rescue last week while I was swapping out those caliper brake hoses.

Here's a link to a vendor's website that has a picture of the wrench: https://express.google.com/u/0/product/10500534534149805872_634449073996430179_1183006?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_cu&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt,eid-koyayyivmf&gtim=CMPGvenjxJScExDFs5iWor_L_bQBGLCC6AUiA1VTRCiQtp_eBTCemkg&utm_campaign=1183006&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuuHdBRCvARIsAELQRQG_Ajt2nwKRmt1r_6x7ZNY2tuPpSxGhUyBBP_MDPrNWEYuqw59qs6AaAsqVEALw_wcB

Ranger Rod · Nov 11, 2018

Joeshark said:
Thanks adsm08, This is what I'm dealing with in the rear.

Been a while since I've done anything brake related. The wheel cylinders are behind the drums, have to remove those & then get the lines of as well?

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When I saw this pic compared to my bleeders being 10 times worse, I went to town with a SNUG unworn 3/8 deep socket and added some leverage at the 1/4 drive breaker / Johnson type bar with success. The bleeders surly had not been turned out since the factory and needed to be unplugged with a drill bit and pin for the inside hole, and were fine with a quick wire wheel cleaning. I went in with confidence in the knowledge I was prepared to replace the break cylinders for 10 or 15 dollars per.

Bleeder Screws?

Ranger850

Doesn't get Sarcasm . . .

mikkelstuff

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Joeshark

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07nhbpsi

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adsm08

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Mr._Graybeard

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Ranger Rod

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